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Profile: Robert Sirugue (Vosne)

DSC05537Tasted in Vosne with Marie-France Wilmotte, 19 November, 2014.

Domaine Robert Sirugue & Ses Enfants
3 Avenue du Monument
21700 Vosne-Romanée
Tel: +33 3 80 61 00 64+33 3 80 61 00 64

This was a label that I was aware of, but had no real knowledge of until a nice bottle of Petits Monts came my way. It was excellent, hence this first visit…

The domaine is into its 5th generation; today Arnaud, the son of Jean-Louis and Catherine, together with Marie-France run the domaine. The cellars here were built in stages, but despite that the main part was only built in the 1970s, you might have the impression that these vaulted cellars were more 15th century! Apparently the stone was transported from an old house that was being demolished in Dijon.

The domaine has 11 hectares in total; 5 hectares of regional wines and 4 hectares in Vosne – 8 cuvées in total. There are 4 Vosne villages wines that have separate elevage but are eventually assembled for the single cuvée.

It was Jean-Louis that made the wines here and in a style that was more tannic according to Marie-France (rustic was a description I heard from others) now, for the last 2 years, it is Arnaud, who makes the wines; destemming 100%, thermo-controlled stainless steel, elevage of 12-15 months in barrel and no rackings until assemblage.

Some wine is still sold to the négoce, but mainly regional stuff – the rest seems to mainly disappear into restaurants – in particular quite a bit to Denmark and Japan.

Marie-France on 2013:
“2013 is very agreable and flattering – I would say due to the lovely weather we had in September.”

The wines…

The Vosne villages will be racked in January, the rest probably in March.

2013 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
From 3 parcels; below the Clos de Vougeot, a parcel between Vosne and Nuits and the last from Clos Prieuré below Chambolle – this latter and old vines plot.
This will be assembled into tank next week.
Very pretty fruit. In the mouth its modest but again quite pretty and certainly tasty. Easy drinking but not simple.

2013 Vosne-Romanée – Selection!
25% new oak for elevage, these 4 will be assembled into 1 cuvée, but we tasted each separately. Note that 5 barrels of a Vieilles Vignes is also bottled:

#1 Aux Réas
A harder nose after the bourgogne but with some spice and it’s quite inviting. Fine wine here; balanced, mouth-watering and full of flavour with lots of finesse.

#2 Chalandins (Flagey)
A little more depth on the nose and a more mineral palate too – mouth-watering narrow and direct.

#3 Aux Barreaux
Vines next to Cros Parantoux. Some reduction, but here is a bigger aroma – also bigger in the mouth but it’s fine structured and tasty – floral in the finish too – excellent.

#4 Muraille du Clos (Flagey)
70 year-old vines. A depth of aroma with faint salinity. Lovely mineral flavour and no fat – super mid-palate dimensions. Very different, equally super.

2013 Nuits St.Georges
From a 0.26 he parcel of Les Herbues, just 1 barrel so not commercialised.
Super depth and nice texture to the nose. Some fat and concentration here – plenty of oak too. Impressive, tasty wine. Yum!

2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts
A significant owner here with about 1.1 hectares.
The nsoe isn’t as full as that of the Nuits but is floral and expressive. Round with a super mid-palate flavour – this is very pretty wine. Very elegant and fine with a mouth-watering finish. Very yum!

2013 Grands-Echézeaux
From the pointed end of GE above the Clos de Vougeot and under Echézeaux.
A wide and very silky nose – warming the glass in the hand releases another dimension of aroma – spice. Really mouth-filling with salt and minerals. Very lovely!

A selection of bottled 2012s…

2012 Bourgogne Aligoté
Fresh, bright, crunchy fruit and a hint of salinity.

2012 Chambolle-Musigny
Tight, faintly oaky. Similar on the palate – but there’s a growing freshness and eventually dimension of flavour. A wine that’s not giving much away today…

2012 Vosne-Romanée
Also a modest nose. Here is much more depth of flavour, but also rather tight I think. A very fine finish though – super yum to end!

2012 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles-Vignes
An airy, pretty and quite open nose. Ouf! more intensity and a little mid-palate padding – lots of energy here. Super density of flavour in the finish. A big wine but a very good wine!
2012 Vosne-Romanée 1er Petits Monts
Not so deep aromas as the VV but width and complexity instead – it’s very friendly and does slowly add depth too. Round, complex and beautifully balanced with great mid-palate flavour and fine persistence.

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