Tasted in Vosne with Michel Gros, 3rd December, 2014.
Domaine Michel Gros
7 Rue des Communes
Tel: +33 3 80 61 04 69
Michel on 2013:
“It was a tough vintage for yields – particularly in the Hautes Côtes where yields were 40% down and 6 hectares were not harvested, despite better flowering than the Côte d’Or – mainly due to botrytis. Overall, here we have wine with more concentration than in 2012.”
The rackings were mainly done about 10 days ago – though three wines were still in malo – so not yet for them. No stems are used here, Michel noting “I don’t use them, because I don’t like the herbaceous aspects.”
2013 Hautes Côtes de Nuits
The aging here is started in 50 hl foudres until the malo is finished (can be 6-10 months) and then is finished in 1 to 2 year-old barrels.
Here is a beautiful nose of vibrant dark red fruit – still with a hint of malo. Plenty of acidity here – almost piercing the fruit is lovely and largely brings balance. Relatively faint tannin here in the finish.
2013 Nuits St.Georges
A blend of three parcels of vines all on the Vosne side of Nuits, less than 1 hectare in total and all vinified together. Malo only 2/3rds completed, thou ‘it should be done by Christmas’!
A wide and fresh nose – though not obviously in malo. Clearly plenty of gas here but this remains a vibrant wine with very good energy. Transparent and really very good.
2013 Nuits St.Georges Les Chaillots
From the southern side of Nuits with elevage in 1/3rd new oak.
A nicely floral nose. There’s not too much gas here, fine intensity and lovely freshness. This will be super!
The nose is a little more smoky. In the mouth there is a slowly growing width of flavour, almost no gas and a wide and concentrated delivery of fruit flavour of very good weight. Really fine flavours in the finish.
Here’s a more obvious malo aroma ut the nose still has fine depth. There is plenty of gas, but behind is a little more freshness and energy than the Vosne – today it’s hard to say more – except that the finish is fine enough.
Vines that sit next to Richebourg, elevage in 50% new oak.
Depth and concentrated dark fruit – a sleek not fat aromatic. Here is a beautiful palate that’s lithe, concentrated and dark fruited with very fine mid-palate intensity and only faintly tannic. Excellent! The last drops in the glass with a fine floral lift too.
Also with 50% new barrel elevage.
Here is a wider and more spicy nose – though with less aromatic depth, except it does improve in the glass. Lovely over the palate – more concentrated, less lithe. Here is lovely fruit and obvious Vosne-Romanée complexity – this is really excellent today. Probably a ‘better’ wine than the Brulees, but today I’d rather drink that wine.
2013 Clos de Vougeot
One of the smallest owners of CV with just 0.2 ha – 3 (new) barrels – in Grands Maupertuis.
Wide and complex high tones that are slowly augmented with a growing floral element. Rounder and fuller with a growing intensity of fine fruit. Longer lasting with a faint herbaceous note – just another complexity – this is very, very good!