Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin, 13th November, 2014.
Once more, ‘Bravo!’ to the Syndicat of Gevrey-Chambertin for this tasting. The format was the same as last year for the 12s, except that there was one extra hour available for tasting – I used all-but 15 minutes of that extra hour despite starting on the dot at 15h00.
Judging by the crowd, it now seems that I’m the only taster to be present at all four of the Syndicat’s tastings that began (in Beaune) with the 2010s. Oh, and I still don’t understand people who head straight to the tables with the grand crus…
What of the wines?
If I compare to 2012, the 2012s often had an extra twist of deliciousness and a bit a bit more structure. That said, the 2013s are really not far behind in tastiness and seemed much more consistent than the 12s, despite having less elevage time due to the harvest being three weeks later – plus the complications of later malolactics. So less ‘poor samples’ at the 2013 tasting, and as always, nice to have a wide selection of wines to compare and contrast in one sitting – even if realistically, you have limited opportunity to ‘go back’ if you strive to taste everything…
Part 1 – 38 villages wines…
I began at speed, planning to make summary notes, but slowly realised the notes were beginning to sound all the same, so slowly expanded my scribbling, but still there seems a generic note – but maybe that fits well for a specific vintage…
Pretty high tones. Intense with forward acidity but padded, fine intensity of fruit.
Narrow but fruity nose. Again, fine and fresh in the mouth with super intensity and an added floral component to. Lovely.
A high-toned and quite overtly floral nose. Fresh with fine intensity and fine mid-palate and finishing flavour, here with a twist of oak in the finish.
2013 Jean-Luc et Eric Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin Symphonie
Good depth of aroma and a little faint herb. Silky, but a little herby in the mid-palate. Tasty but rather non-standard Gevrey – good finish though.
2013 Jean-Luc et Eric Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favourites Vieilles-Vignes
Some pretty high tones. A little herbal flavour and faintly astringent tannin too. Saved by very good mid-palate intensity…
Padded and almost truffled – but no reduction. Concentrated in the mouth and with super flavour – lots of material here and a faint tannin. Super – the best that this wine has showed at any of the Syndicat tastings.
A discreet, fine and inviting nose. Lithe, linear and more mineral. Grows in the mid-palate where there’s structure too – very lovely!
2013 Jerome Galeyrand, Gevrey-Chambertin En Croisette
Here’s a wide and interesting nose. Again linear but finer and smoother with fine intensity and a mineral finish. Super, but less delicious than the Billards.
A fine nose that’s round and ripe in the middle. Super energy and intensity here. Super-yum!
A discreet but high-toned and pretty nose. Plenty of mouth-watering flavour – Yum!
Flowers and sweet stems. Round and concentrated with some tannin texture – fine tannin despite the whole cluster. A lovely and sweetly lingering finish.
2013 René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
High tones, flowers and a bit of sulfite too. Sweetness of fresh fruit and plenty of width – it will be good though, assuming the sulfitic nose rights itself.
Nice faint stems and lots of aromatic depth. Round and soft but also intense and concentrated. Plenty of oak today softening things up, but in time this will be super…
Fine and deep. Fresh fruit with good intensity, width and fine complexity. Fine fruit here – yum!
2013 Pierre Naigeon, Gevrey-Chambertin En Vosne
Deeper aromas with some whole cluster and maybe a little sulfur too. Round, with a little more texture and still with sweetness of fruit. Less finishing energy, yet good. A faint salt and a super length.
The aromas are no so wide, but they’re pretty deep and there are lovely high tones. Super energy and intensity with very good complexity. Super!
A faint reduction to the nose. Round and mouth-watering complexity and plenty of ripe structure. Lovely mouth-watering flavour – really yum!
A beautiful, deep, padded nose. Also beautifully packaged, mouth-watering, tasty fruit – a beauty!
Very pretty sweet fruit aroma. Faint gas on the tongue but still mouth-filling with lots of dimensions of flavour. Very, very good!
Part 2 – 37 Premier Cru wines…
Fewer recommended wines in this section, versus the ‘Villages’ – not because of a lack of quality – rather a more uniform performance – so fewer ‘stand-outs’!
2013 Arlaud, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Aux Combottes
A wide, silky and pretty nose. Extra sweetness here versus the villages wines – concentration too. The super mid-palate hints at whole clusters and there’s along, faintly saline finish. Yum!
A modest but prettily high-toned nose. Full, concentrated with energy and complexity. Really super!
A narrow nose but one with a fine floral top-note. Lovely width and dimension with sweet acidity too. This is very, very good – there’s plenty of oak but it remains tasty and has a great finish
A lovely, deep nose with plenty of freshness. Fuller and super-concentrated with lots of flavour dimension. This is seriously good!
2013 Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
A wider nose, less impact though. This seems a little spikier though with no lack of complexity – indeed its a super mid-palate but today, the Cazetiers shows better.
2013 Château de Marsannay, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux
Fresh and high-toned aromas – very good despite a suggestion of reduction. A little gas on the tongue – or too much tannin grain – probably a bit of both! Good flavour dimension over dark oak (or reduction!)
2013 Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
A deep and quite impressive nose despite a little reduction. Good sweetness, lithe, slightly hard but with lots of dimension and energy. Good wine!
2013 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Deep and quite complex but quite unformed. I’m bathing in fine, ripe tannin here – though there’s lots of flavour too – perhaps enough to balance! A little too embryonic today…
2013 Pierre Gelin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Prieur
This has very fine fruit – yum! In the mouth it’s intense and direct but with a little padding too – both the nose and flavour remind of biting into a (big!) fresh raspberry.
Very high-toned but with pretty, fresh fruit. Also in the mouth, but with considerable concentration below – there will definitely be less impressive grand crus!
2013 Heresztyn-Mazzini, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Perrières
Fresh and deep with minimal width. Super concentration with lots of mid-palate impact. A wine that finishes much better than it starts.
This shows very pretty fruit and of good width too – lovely. Some salt, lots of complexity, great balance and energy – super wine!
2013 Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Estournelles St.Jacques
Faintly spicy with plenty of aromatic depth. Full and with lots of dimension – a little hard in the mid-palate but without loss of dimension. Lots of dark fruit – impressive.
2013 Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Lots of complexity – maybe from whole cluster. Sweetness of fruit and a more obvious whole cluster flavour. A little saline complexity in the finish too.
Cushioned and layered, an almost whole cluster impression (does DM use WC?) Full and round yet also detailed – and very fine detail indeed. Not just intense, but super-tasty!
2013 Philippe Naddef, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux
Good depth and impact – despite some reduction. Lots of energy, complexity and flavour dimension. On the other hand, it’s a bit reductive and offers a far from smooth texture. Impressive if a bit rustic showing.
2013 Pierre Naigeon, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Pretty and detailed aromas – but no depth today. This fills the mouth well. Some whole cluster flavour and grainy tannin. Plenty of complexity. Pretty good wine…
Ripe, wide and pretty aromas with a floral accent. Wow – here is not just complexity, but grand cru complexity – plenty of blocky tannin too but also a super finish. Wow!
Really deep, though aided with an accent of reduction. Really, lots of concentration, lots of intensity too – there’s a dark oak note too, but that should fade. Very, very good!
Beautiful, if tight, ripe fruit on the nose. Full and concentrated, slightly salty and with layers of flavour. Simply excellent!
Like the Varoilles, but with just a little more freshness. Lovely sweet fruit on the full, concentrated and mouth-watering palate. Just about everything that you could want!
And finally, 33 Grand Crus…
As there should be, there are many great wines here…
2013 Maume, Mazoyères-Chambertin
A nose that almost seems fizzy – whole clusters too. Full, with lots of impact and certainly more structure than the last. Good complexity with some salinity too. Again, very good.
This is rather pretty, floral and sweet – maybe with some whole cluster(?) Lots of sweetness and really more concentrated than the last two wines. Whole cluster flavour (surely). Excellent
Airy, pretty fruit notes. Intense and direct, with very good width too. This has plenty of structure but lots of length too. Very yum!
Some high and inviting tones. More interesting mid-palate complexity and length versus the last wine.
This has a lovely floral top-note – a fine and inviting nose. Lovely, mouth-filling – ouf! – really one of the best wines yet as there’s just so much complexity and tasty flavour. Exceptional.
2013 Château de Marsannay, Ruchottes-Chambertin
Some high tones and maybe a hint of whole cluster. Wide but much less deep than the Magnien – yet, still plenty to interest the senses – good complexity too – but behind the Magnien for sure.
A mineral and quite high-toned nose – very interesting. Real intensity of flavour too. I have the impression of something a hint volatile, but maybe that’s just the fruit expression on this sample – I’ll give it the benefit of doubt. This could be really super.
A fresh and pretty nose – if of rather modest proportion. Full, round and very silky – this is really super. Lots and lots of complexity here.
Deep, fragrant and fresh – plus a not that I can’t work out if it’s oak or a little toasty reduction. Round and concentrated with super power and lots of flavour intensity. Very yum!
2013 Pierre Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin
A concentrated if still rather tight nose. Lots and lots of width plus a little grainy structure. Lots of complexity too including a few whole cluster references. This should end up excellent.
Deep, full and textured nose. Wow! Super-complex, salty, actually hard to drink given the intensity – potentially a giant – one day…
A super-fruity nose despite an accent of reduction. Mineral and complex, salty, whole cluster complexity, just super wine.
A narrow nose but still high-toned and floral. Round, cleaner and with more flavour dimension than the BP&F. Really super!
A beautiful nose of roses, whole clusters and perfect, ripe fruit. Super concentration and energy. This is dynamic and complex – also brilliant!
A nose that’s high-toned and very pretty. A super experience on the tongue – full and complex with an ever-growing intensity – even in this company! Really excellent.
Shame! The nose is a little reduced. But in the mouth this is mineral, fresh and complex – and quite the most dynamic thing on the table – wow!