Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Cyprien Arlaud, 26 November, 2014.
Domaine Arlaud Père et Fils
41 Rue Epernay
21220 Morey St.Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 32 65+33 3 80 34 32 65
This was my first visit chez Arlaud. I was met by Beatrice and placed in the ‘waiting area’ – there’s a nice photo of there of horse-plougher extraordinaire, Berthille, doing her thing. Then came Cyprien Arlaud; he’s clearly very knowledgable and committed, I’m just not sure if he’s also very shy or suspicious of people with notebooks – people like me! I’m sure if I hadn’t kept asking questions, the whole tasting could have been conducted in silence 😉
Cyprien on 2013:
“We last 5-6% through triage, but overall I find 2013 much better than 2012. The wines are less alcohol-rich than 2012 but show very good phenolic ripeness, so have very fine tannins. Together with 2010, 2013 is one of the vintages that really highlight the differences in terroir the most.”
There seems a house-style today (ignoring the almost ever-present reductive aromas) and that is for lithe wines with lots of of energy and great acidity. A style that I like very much.
2013 Morey St.Denis
From 2 parcels; Les Seuvrey and Clos Solon.
Faint oak and faint reduction – but there’s lots of fruit here. I find the combination of weight and texture, lovely. Wide but without fat and with super energy and just a hint of minerality. Yum again.
From close to the parcels of Morey.
Another wine with plenty of reduction but swirly gets rid of the majority. Again there is intensity, here with a floral aspect to the fruit. Just a little bitter-chocolate oak in the finish. This will be lovely.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Sentiers
Here is both depth and texture of aroma – whole-cluster? – apparently not! Fresh and detailed with a hint of salinity and a different texture to the tannin versus the Gevrey. Lovely!
2013 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Millandes
The reduction is back, but with slowly evolving high tones and some minerality. Wide, great depth of flavour and here, again, there’s some dark-chocolate in the finish.
2013 Morey St.Denis 1er Cheseaux
A vineyard that touches on Mazoyères.
A deep nose that shows a little oak-spice and a hint of chocolate. More tannin, with depth and intensity to the fruit and again a very dark-shaded length.
20% whole-cluster, here.
An airy nose with some floral references. More acidity and more (extra!) intensity too. Extra texture from tannin too but with virtually no grain. Excellent!
2013 Clos de la Roche
Here, 25% whole-clusters in the fermentation.
A mix of reduction and many minerals. In the mouth a wine that’s loaded with energy but supported by tannin – there’s no fat here. Direct wine with really excellent length!
Concentrated, high-toned aromas with some herbs. Very silky and with growing intensity too. Your mouth slowly fills with tannin but it’s completely ripe, showing no grain.
2013 Clos St.Denis
A high-toned and faintly fizzy nose. The palate is more rounded after the Clos de la Roche – faintly padded too. There’s a little saltiness to the flavour – which is really super – the last drops in the glass offering some whole-cluster aromas.
Deep, dark and mineral nose – no reduction here. There’s some faint gas on the tongue but the difference between this and the CSD remains massive – not fat at all, just lots of lithe, muscular flavour of fine clarity, if seemingly modest intensity. Very, very long. Really super!
The following 2013s are classed as négoce, as the grapes are purchased, but the domaine do all the vineyard work:
A deep nose, accented with reduction, yet a very pretty floral note grows from the glass. Again, direct and with plenty of acidity and energy – lovely mouth-watering finish too. I like this very much!