Tasted in Cheilly with Pablo Chevrot, 23rd October, 2014.
Domaine Chevrot et Fils
19 Route de Couches
Tel: +33 3 85 91 10 55
Pablo on 2013:
“Both colours had a poor yield – reds with 30 hl/ha and everything together coming out at 34 hl/ha. There was no hail, it was just down to the very small grapes and what was triaged – because not all fruit developed after the pre-harvest rain. To be honest, it’s not really enough. We were able to use some stems in 13 as we had plenty of clean parcels – stems were more problematic for the 2014s”
Pablo on 2014:
“2014 was good from a volume perspective; we only had a little hail in the villages Santenay, for the rest we saw 36-38 hl/ha for reds and 40-45 hl/ha for the whites. I’m happy with that!”
Almost all of the whites are now bottled but only the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune red. The rest of the reds will stay in barrel until December, then spend another 2 months or-so in tank. I found one wine a bit acidic today, but the rest are a very fine and consistent range – and in both colours too!
2013 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Bottled last week. All the grapes are from Cheilly; one part from behind the domaine and another part from close to St.Sernin.
Deep red cherry aroma. There’s nice width in the mouth with a modest drag of tannin. Direct, not much richness but with very tasty fruit. The finish is modest too, but the last drops in the glass smell lovely.
2013 Maranges Sur le Chêne
Fresh, bright, very pretty pinot fruit. The palate starts narrow, slowly widening with mouth-watering flavours and faintly soft tannin. Pretty flavours here and fine, expressive pinot fruit.
A blend of two parcels. the main (75%) part coming from near Chassagne, the rest from near Maranges.
Wide with dark-red fruit aromas – not so deep, tight, dark and mineral at its base. In the mouth this is fuller and rounder and with more flavour too, flavour with lovely intensity with a little furry tannin.
2013 Santenay 1er Clos Rousseau
Part of this vineyard has been replanted in white – the first wine will be next year (2015).
There’s faint reduction so the fruit seem dark – yet it lifts quite quickly from the glass. In the mouth this is sleeker, with a little more concentration and intensity. Lovely width of flavour in the mid-palate – a high-toned red fruit with lovely freshness.
2013 Maranges 1er Clos Roussots
Recovered this parcel last year. It is already worked in Bio, but Pablo notes it’s a hard vineyard to cultivate as the top and bottom parts have permeable soil, but the middle is all clay. “I’m much happier with the result in 2014, I think it will take a little time to bring equilibrium to the vines.”
Fresh, pretty red fruit. The acidity is a little more forward here – a little mouth-puckering.
2013 Maranges 1er Le Fussière
“Perhaps my best grapes in 2014” notes Pablo.
The nose starts tighter, but with more glossy, dark-red fruit. Round, penetrating acidity wrapped in fine concentrated fruit, The flavour holds very well with a little extra mineral dimension with the fruit. Yum!
2013 Maranges 1er Croix aux Moines
Faint reduction – you need to wait for the last drops in the glass to see the pretty aromas. Silky-soft, with an undercurrent of velvet. An almost comforting flavour and texture!
Yielded just 20 hl/ha – “the flowers were blown away” explains Pablo. from the same vineyard as the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes.
The nose is modest but offers pear fruit and a certain richness. Nice and silky. Again some richness but also minerals and salinity. Ouf! – Excellent
2013 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc
Fresher aromas of lime-skin and faint white pepper, maybe a hint of sulfur too. This seems quite a mineral wine – the fruit accenting everything – but remaining an accent. There’s only a suggestion of richness but with lovely underlying balance.
2013 Maranges Blanc
There’s an appealing freshness to the nose. Silky, round and with a little richness of texture but once-more with good supporting acidity. Then there’s a super growth of mid-palate flavour – really leaves an excellent finishing impression.
“From Comme Dessus – I’m not sure why it’s classed as villages because the soil and exposure are the same class as the 1er crus” says Pablo. Raised in 350 litre barrels.
The nose could easily pass for Puligny – lovely, encompassing, but not cloying. More mineral than I’m anticipating. Expressive with good concentration. Really super this vintage!
2013 Maranges 1er Le Fussière Blanc
This part of the vineyard is ploughed using a cable-pulley as it’s so steep. “Very young vines here, just 4 years old. Planted at the top of the slope where there’s lots of limestone and flint.” Raised in 1 year-old barrels.
A round, cushioned nose – but of some depth. A little minerality and a nice growth of mid-palate flavour with a few oak accents.
2013 Aligoté Tileuls
This still in its big barrel. Actually it’s a barrel selection as there are about 6 barrels which are slowly whittled down to 2 or 3. The rest for the standard cuvée of aligoté. “Ploughed by horse, long elevage and (there will be) no fining or filtration.”
A fresher, wide nose – though less deep than many. It sits very well on the palate, mineral and hinting at much complexity. Less padded than the chardonnays and with super length.