Tasted in Gevrey with Pierre-Jean Roty, 2nd December, 2014.
Domaine Joseph Roty
24 Rue Mal de Lattre de Tassigny
Tel: +33 3 80 34 13 59
Pierre-Jean on 2012:
“As much as 40% less crop in some sectors in 2012.”
What a selection of wines!
The whites are rather modest, but that’s not most peoples’ reason for shopping here – the reds are really fine, and in this vintage, seemingly sponsored by Chanel…
2012 Bourgogne Blanc
A mix of grapes from Gevrey and Marsannay.
Fragrant, fresh chardonnay – fairly round. Round in the mouth too but with fine underlying acidity and quite some concentration too. A little savoury flavour in the finish – but tasty.
2012 Marsannay Blanc
From 3 parcels.
A fresher and wider nose – but less pretty than the bourgogne. Lovely freshness and very good intensity – this is much tastier and has a perfumed element to the flavour.
2012 Côteaux Bourguignone
As I’m sure you’re all aware, 2012 was the first vintage where this label came into being; a replacement for the old Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire label. In this case the wine is 100% pinot noir form ‘very good’ parcels below Morey and Gevrey, all with oak-elevage (2-3 year-old barrels).
A wild and quite attractive nose, indeed with some power. Lovely, lithe, muscled wine, though maybe lacking too much flesh – yet there’s fine persistence of flavour.
A parcel that was classed as Gevrey in the 1960-80s – you might find old bottles from this time labelled Roty Gevrey Pressonniers.
A lovely nose of flowers and fruit – very attractive. Detailed and fresh, but with a little weight too before the acid-led finish. This is very, very good, showing really perfumed fruit in the mouth.
A combination of multiple lieu-dits.
Again, a very nice nose that combines roundness with weight. More weight of flavour too with fine complexity and again perfume in the mouth. Very good wine!
2012 (Philippe Roty) Marsannay Champs St.Etienne
A little cheese again, but a few swirls and it’s gone, revealing fresh, excellent detail – very pretty – the last drops in the glass showing flowers. More intensity and a little more tannin. A long perfumed flavour with added herbs…
2012 Marsannay Ouzeloy
Here the nose has more depth and seems a little riper, slowly adding higher tones too. Another wine that’s fresh, intense and has a perfumed flavour aspect – I’m really surprised how consistent this perfume theme is… Lots of flavour and lots of interest…
From vines near Les Evocelles.
A fine, padded and ripe nose – lots of interest here. Super texture with a little grip of tannin and super density of flavour – perfumed and long. Excellent!
Good depth and height of aroma – slowly adding a floral component. Very wide flavour panorama in the mouth – lots of intensity and of fine flavour too – and there’s even more in the finish, again with perfume. Really super villages.
2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Chenys
Here is a little more aromatic complexity if a little less impact. Muscular and fresh flavours with a baseline of grippy tannin – more dimension of flavour in the finish too. In this case, not just perfume but also a little licorice…
Similarly complex to the Champs Chenys but with more aromatic intensity and focus. This this also the first wine with some sweet oak notes. Lovely texture, the same flavour profile as the Champs Chenys but really with more of everything, but with really super, if discreet length. Excellent!
2012 (Philippe Roty) Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Chenys Vieilles-Vignes
Vines from 1943, bought in 2002.
Wide and a little rounder nose with floral top-notes. A round, slightly soft but complex flavour profile but with more flavour oomph in the finish. A more contemplative wine, but an excellent one. And that’s two wines in a row with less obvious ‘mouth perfume.’
2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fontenys
More aromatic depth and a base of darker fruit at the base – almost truffled. Lovely, lovely intensity here with some tannic grip below – but very-much below. There’s a textural interlude from the tannin before the flavour re-exerts control – and here is the return of the perfume too. A wine that also leaves a silky impression on your teeth. Super!
A nose that’s a little tighter. LOvely lithe flavours without fat, just muscle and lots of flavour. A direct wine but with a subtle complexity too. Discreet flavour in the finish – but very, very long.
Delicate and precise aromas that slowly add both depth and weight. Round but not too plush – but brilliantly complex for Charmes. The acidity is more modest here and there’s some impression of dry extract too in the finish. You hardly ever notice the tannin – it seems to be just part of the shape of the wine – perfect integration. Arguably perfect wine – not for spitting!