Tasted in Meursault with Pierre-Henri Rougeot, 05 October 2022.
Domaine Rougeot Père et Fils
6, rue André Ropiteau
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 20 59
www.domainerougeot.com
More reports for Domaine Rougeot Père et Fils
Pierre-Henri on 2021:
“2021 was a little bit lower than half a normal harvest volume for white and more like 30% less for the reds – 32-35 hl/ha for the reds – we target 37-38… We were already certified as organic but 2021 was our first year of conversion to biodynamic certification – so we can call it a challenge – fortunately we saw that it still worked! Our biggest losses came in St.Romain and that was to oïdium – but we know that this was an error on our part – plus the 30% more rain that St.Romain got vs Meursault! We changed tack for our whites, pressing without crushing them before. We had nice acidity so I did a little longer presses. 8 days of harvesting vs 11 days in 2022.”
The wines…
A range of wines with much interest. The Corton excepted, which I’d drink with pleasure today(!), the style of the reds are for keeping 3-5 years before opening I think – but they are delivering complex and moreish wines. The whites are usually the forté here and a few are certainly worth a special search – well done Pierre-Henri!
The domaine Passetoutgrains was bottled in April but none of the others have been done:
2021 (Maison) Bourgogne Passetoutgrains Mon Plaisir
Quite a forward graphite minerality to this wine. Fine width with silky texture – 100% whole bunch as all the reds here. Wide and long finishing too. Very tasty!
2021 (Domaine) Bourgogne Passetoutgrains Les Vergers
Just a little less gamay – 40%.
A much larger aromatic – filling the glass – pungent and exciting. Extra sweeteness of fruit and energy – certainly a more forward wine too. Lots of whole cluster character but I love this!
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Les Vaux
More chalky soil here, the vines are practically behind the cuverie of Coche-Dury. Racked two weeks ago. Maybe for bottling in January
A more direct, smaller volume nose but of fine fruit purity – that’s lovely. Broad, showing a little more structure than the PTG but this is really nicely shaped – today a little more austere but I like this a lot.
2021 Bourgogne Les Lameroses
Clay soil, the vines in north Meursault in the direction Volnay. This pinot fin, the previous being pinot-droit.
Less direct but deeper and finer aromas. Mouth-filling, more supple Finely intense with a modest frame of grainless tannin. I love the clarity here. A super wine.
2021 Pommard Clos des Roses
Really Rue au Porc, at the bottom of the village next to the RN74, is the lieu-dit. More gravely, sandy soil here – there’s a stream nearby. 0.9 ha. Two plants here, they keep the pinot fin for the domaine.
A wine with a depth of pungent wc references – exciting. Direct, a little CO2 today, beautiful depth of fruit flavour but certainly within a structure with a bit extra tannin – again no grain – then a burst of finishing intensity with plenty of energy.
2021 Volnay 1er Santenots
Dessous, under Leroy next to the Hospices parcels
Here there’s more elegance to the perfume of the clusters. Great shape – fluid, cool fruited width, a texture of silk to start – more like velour as the tannin slowly comes to the surface. A wine of finesse. This is excellent!
A few contract wines – négoce – labelled PH Rougeot:
2021 Côte de Nuits Villages La Plante au Bois
From Comblanchien, mid-slope, pinot fin.
Hmm, a smaller but no less attractive nose. A different shape and structure – less width but still a fine clarity of fruit. The tannin very slightly granular.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Reniard
35-year-old vines on limestone, direction Morey, the vines below the RN74 and Aux Etelois.
Starting with some depth and structure but quickly overlaid with a more floral perfume. Here is super, mouthwatering, energy – a hint of pyrazine is the impression – but merely accents. Fading nicely…
1 barrel – a new wine here – 50% destemmed as didn’t have any experience with it – Aloxe side
A clarion call of beautifully pure, forward fruit – that’s really a beauty! Mouth-filling plenty of tannin – but not dry, and layers of exquisite fruit – bravo!
2021 Rosé Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
Did this in 2019 and aged it for 18 months – to slowly remove the reduction.
And this has an obvious reduction too – you have to work the glass to minimise it – a little – with that comes more focus and a growing core of red fruit. Direct, some concentration – quite mineral – it’s less about the fruit – not so sweet (after a great Corton) but a super finish – I love the detail and little extra sweetness to the fireworks in the finish.
Les Whites:
2021 Bourgogne Aligoté Les Plumes
Just on the other side of RN in Meursault, 65-year-old vines. No added sulfur, racked 1 month ago. Currently with a fining.
Direct, fresh almost a little wax to the yellow fruit. Easy entry – growing wider and more intense. . Super wine – really excellent.
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Clos des 6 Ouvrées
Despite the middle of the village placement, this is not far from Chevaliers – usually the last harvested of the chardonnays here.
A different style of intensity – you can see the no sulfur aspect and a little golden fruit but it’s a fine invitation. Some gas but also plenty of energy of its own – mobile, juicy, almost a cascade of great flavour – completely delicious wine!
Near Sous la Velle
Again the no sulfur accent but fine clarity to the golden fruit. A little extra depth and concentration. Purity – that’s great, great Bourgogne flavour – bravo!
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Grands Gouttes
Vines that are almost on the border of Puligny under Charmes – there’s soil here but also a base of limestone.
A rounder, more cushioned nose. More direct, more energy -less fat – but with similarly sparkly energy and complexity in the finish. A little chalky texture in this finish too – drink the previous one while waiting for this – simply excellent!
2021 Monthelie Toisières
The youngest wines of the domaine – 30 years old!
Airy, generally more guarded aromatics but in the direction of white flowers and yellow citrus. Mouth-filling mineral and structural – sweeping flavours – good fluidity here. Fine finishing intensity. That’s another beauty.
West-facing, 90+ yo vines – oldest of the domaine – similar exposure to the Monthelie
Again a nose that speaks of the elevage. But this melts beautifully over the palate – the fruit of cool purity supported by a fine – porcelain structure and minerality – a faint floral component too – I love it!
2021 Meursault Sous la Velle
Biggest parcel of the domaine with 2.2 ha, in 4 plots, harvested in 2 days sometimes a bit more. 45-65-yo vines. On one part plenty of clay here that holds on well to water another part more limestone.
A broad and airy nose but underpinned with plenty of depth too. Plenty of volume in the mouth, even a faint chalky tannin in the texture. Broad and satisfying in the finish with plenty of, fading, fine interest. More than very good wine…
2021 Meursault 1er Charmes
65-yo vines from the bottom to the middle of the vineyard.
A more compact top end but broad with a little creaminess in the base of these aromas. Mineral, bubbling with energy, depth of flavour too – a hint of the creaminess from the nose is also present here. Intense, invigorating finishing style – it gives you wings. Simply super wine.