Tasted in Puligny-Montrachet with Jacques Carillon, once more, without his red jacket, 28 September 2022.
Domaine Jacques Carillon
1 Impasse Drouhin
21190, Puligny-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 01 30
www.jacques-carillon.com
More reports with Domaine Jacques Carillon.
Jacques on 2021 and a little on 2022:
“2022 – I’m happy with that – it helps after 2021 where the villages were about 30-35% down in volume but the 1ers were much less than half what we expect. Back to normal in 2022, in fact, a good volume. 2021 is a return to the style, less sunny, of older vintages – there was quite a lot of malic acid. What we have is nice. The problem is that we don’t have very much of anything in the 1er crus.”
The wines…
A fine range from Jacques this year – the ‘simple’ villages is a great one!
Jacques is currently testing DIAM in his villages cuvées.
7 lieu-dits, 9 parcels, 2.7 ha. This sample is assembled from three tanks, all of which will be assembled before bottling roughly in March – ‘if I have the bottles – if they don’t have the gas they can’t make the glass!’
Already a flattering and energetic nose. Super energy and intensity of flavour that comes in waves. There’s really a weight of finishing flavour too – that’s really a super villages – bravo – what a great start!
2021 Chassagne-Montrachet
A single plot planted in 2013 – in 2016 there was none due to frost – before this parcel was planted to red. Vines on the plain below the Château de Chassagne-Montrachet.
A broader more floral nose from these young vines. Vibrant, again a lovely growing intensity to this mouth-watering wine. Again holding well but with a little less intensity and persistence – delicious and more obviously mineral in the end.
2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Canet
A higher-toned and floral nose. An extra scale to these flavours – supple, vibrating, a resonating with flavour. Again, absolutely delicious – pulling you along. Simply excellent wine.
2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Perrières
Fuller, again perfumed but with more depth to this aroma. Serious, intense, there’s both energy, intensity and a little more depth to these flavours. To wait for – a little – but with anticipation. That’s going to be a good one!
2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Referts
A slightly more vertical nose, extra depth but still perfumed. A hint more gas. Wider, more sinuous, more mineral today. Clean, precise, growing with intensity. Simply excellent wine, again!
2021 Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet
Larger and more floral nose. A hint more depth of concentration, wide, supple, fine-textured wine. No burst of extra intensity but a finish that simply rolls from one side of your mouth to the other – and then back again – all calm but very long. Lovely.
And for the road:
2013 Puligny-Montrachet
That’s lovely – quite an ample nose with a little classy maturity in the notes – almost faint truffle too. This is fine and mouth-filling. With extra complexity but still retaining some purity and a fine tension. Drinking beautifully.
Extra colour but still yellow. More advanced but in absolutely the best sense with cushioned white chocolate and even the first hints of damp wool – this is a treat! Vibrant, concentrated, fine cushioned texture, and still sinuous in style. Another wine that finishes with broad waves of flavour that retain definition and intensity. A point!