Tasted in Chassagne with Thibault Morey, 13 December 2022.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet
6 Place du Grand Four
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 31 71
www.domainemoreycoffinet.com
More reports for Domaine Morey-Coffinet.
Thibault on 2022:
“Happy with 2022 – there were some grapes. One or two cuvées have taken their time to start fermenting but compared to 2021 it was certainly an easier vintage. 2/3rds of the wines have already finished their fermentations though.”
Thibault on 2021:
“All the wines are now in bottle – the last was done just a week ago. The volumes of the villages and generics are about the same as in 2020 – but not the 1ers. I still chose not to assemble any cuvées – except that there’s no Dents du Chien and no négoce this year. I think the whites have some resemblance to those of 2014. I let nature take it’s course – I used no candles but we do prune our vines rather late – sometimes I think almost too late as the vines sometimes have started to grow and take their time to recover their growth afterwards. Half a harvest in total – exactly like in 2016 for volume but the better wines are more scarce in 21.”
The wines:
Despite the low volumes, and some missing cuvées, the wines here are simply excellent in 2021 – in both colours – some are particularly special!
All-natural cork, with NdTec for the grand crus – “With the evolution in the market I don’t think the cork quality has been higher than now – it would be a shame to change them,” says Thibault.
2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Côte d’Or
All vines in the commune of Chassagne
Ooh – bright and forward – lots of attractive red-berried precision here. Mouth-filling – full of energy and red fruit that’s faintly framed by a modest tannin. Finishing juicy – give this 6 months and you will be very happy.
2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes Vieilles-Vignes
Next to Boudriotte
Deeper fruit as there’s a small reduction – more cherry stone in the last notes. Broader and more intense – finishing with a silkiness of fine red fruit. Intense but hardly austere and certainly not a wine of too much structure – the tannin is quite hidden. Delicious.
2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean.
The old original section, just this domaine and Domaine Paul Pillot are here.
Also a faint reduction but with super energy and complexity. Larger scale in the mouth, with good intensity but also with an extra cushion to these flavours. This is always an excellent cuvée here – and no change in 2021. A fine long finish too – here it’s a little floral.
Les Blancs:
2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côte d’Or
This also from the commune of Chassagne. No frost here – a later growing area.
Lots of width and good depth too – energy, slightly golden fruit with a little structure. Hmm, wide, melting, fine clarity to this almost lime-infused citrus. A really great finish too!
Direction Vide Bourse on the Puligny side of the Route Nationale.
Forward – lots of depth to this aromatic – structural, mineral, complex – a good invitation! Quite direct, beautifully silky – a mineral wine that vibrates with energy. Fine, subtle citrus finishing. Bravo!
2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er en Fairendes
Of course, in Morgeot – This the first vintage with this replanted area – the vines are now 5 years old.
A broader nose with a faint firework reduction. Wide, more melting in style – classy texture and growing in flavour intensity – indeed authority! A wine with flavours that ease over the palate – such an elegant thing – a beauty.
2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er en Caillerets
A long line of vines in two parts, 0.65 ha
Less width but there’s fine depth and a little sherbet energy in the top notes. Mouth-filling, mineral – super-silky texture – a little lithe muscle in the middle flavours. Gorgeously mouth-watering in the finish.
2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
Ooh – now that’s got a little extra – a vibration of something exciting! A relaxed wine but of cool fruit that reaches every little space in your mouth – finishing with wave after wave of flavour – this touched a little by the barrel today – adding some finishing sweetness. Lovely, lovely – excellent wine – give it 2-3 years for the oak to fade – but it will be brilliant from about 10.
26 years old the vines here now. The small parcels of the domaines are now high trained and worked by horse.
Hmm – some power here and lots of stony complexity too. Muscular but with no fat – mouth-watering around a core of concentration – Holding a super line of finishing flavour – this is a great year for the Pucelles here – bravo!
From the Chassagne side, close to the only tree in the vineyard! ‘Still young vines – 25 years old. Only bottled last week – the first time Thibault has tasted it since.
The most floral of these aromas. Ooh – direct, mineral, growing in strength and intensity. Widening over the palate – almost dynamic in the finish with a mineral-floral hybrid – the complex citrus remains discreet. Simply a beautiful thing – holding a volume of persistent finishing flavour. Potentially a great wine here!