Antoine Jobard – 2021

23.12.2022billn

Antoine Jobard 2022Tasted in Meursault with Antoine Jobard, 17 October, 2022.

Domaine Antoine Jobard
2 Rue Leignon
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 26
More reports with Domaine Antoine Jobard.

Antoine on 2022:
In 2022 we made less wine than in 2020 – but I’m not looking for 70 hl/ha!`For both colours I’m very satisfied.

Antoine on 2021:
2021 here was much less volume than 2016 – the bottom of the hills was much more affected than the top in 2016 so we lost the volume wines – the Bourgognes and the villages – but in 2021 we lost at least 75% – It’s easy to see, I have 200 barrels in 22, itself not a big vintage, there are just 45 barrels in 2021. as for the wines, I wasn’t sure before the racking – they were serious and at the same time gave the impression of lacking material – but after racking and sulfuring they opened and became much more interesting – not opulent like 2009 or 2020 but they are a very nice surprise!

The wines…

Antoine continues his very consistent run of fine vintages here – his signature wines – in both colours are worth a special search – as most years!

All still 100% cork here:

2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Usually from 5 parcels all from in the commune of Meursault – so could label Côte d’Or, but that’s not what his clients have habitually bought.
Hmm – now that’s nice – a very Meursault nose. Direct, a little muscle, plenty of structure but beautifully mouthwatering too. Steely finishing even – that’s simply excellent! Lovely citrus bitters vibrating in the finish…

2021 Meursault
An assembly of all the domaine’s villages lieu-dits this vintage – Antoine has been testing this for a number of years and found this approach to be the most complete and complex. ‘Of course, it’s more simple for me but there are advantages to making a large cuvée – you take up less oxygen, you lose less sulfur – and I have anyway a number of separate 1ers and with the reds – I still have over 20 cuvées.’
A more compact but still fresh and clean nose. Hmm, melting flavours – salinity and citrus-driven acidity – there’s minerality here too! Cleaner, sleeker lines than the Bourgogne and more finshing class too – simply super!

2021 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
A part with 60-year-old vines plus some from 2009.
More mineral, though more guarded aromas – still fresh and even faintly spiced. Supple, still wide and intense but here with more floral flavours in the citrus – more complex for sure. Intense in the finish too – here is a wine with impressive but still cushioned intensity.

2021 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots
A deeper and more yellow citrus aroma to start, becoming more mineral-focused with time. Fuller, a mm of cushioning, still intense and really with super waves, wide waves of successive explosions of flavour crashing onto the plate – yes – and not the structural rigour of some vintages of Poruzots. Bravo!
2021 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
Less width of aroma but here is plenty of depth – a smoky mineral base with silky, almost waxy citrus fruit. Supple, layered, juicy – the best balance yet. Fine and intense flashes of finishing complexity. Great dimension – yes! Bravo again!
2021 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
Together with Remi, part was replanted in March 2017. The vines were on the SO4 rootstock and ‘the longevity of those vines wasn’t great.’
Broad, with a modestly smoky width of complexity – very engaging. Extra depth, extra comfort but no lack of intensity. Broad finishing too – ooh this is so good – hard to compare with the Charmes – they are so different – but again bravo I think!

2021 St.Aubin 1er Sur le Sentier du Clou
2012 was the first vintage, 2 barrels. Came from wife’s family. Some parts were planted in 1992 and 2002 but the average vine age is 40 years.
A much more vertical nose – depth and plenty of interesting higher tones too. Supple, with flavour that moves finely over the palate – a little steely in the middle. The shape of this is top, the flavours a little behind the last three – but not lots – as it should be – excellent SA!

2021 St.Aubin 1er Derrière Chez Eduard
A finer, airy aromatic here – that’s very lovely. Supple, relaxing well over the palate – the flavours are intense and just a little more floral and expressive versus the ‘Clou’. Completely delicious – bravo!

Les Reds!
All the reds were racked 3 weeks ago:

2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
All in the commune of Pommard – about 1.5 ha. All destemmed.
Not broad but the depth is interesting and pure and shows good energy. Hmm, this is good – young – modestly with bitters and plenty of fruit intensity

2021 Beaune 1er Montrevenots
More open higher tones here – pretty floral accents too – that’s fine! Lots of energy and flavour dimension. The flavour is highly accessible and modestly cushioned. Long and interesting, indeed absorbing wine. I love!

2021 Beaune 1er Epenotes
Only 20 hl/ha here.
More colour – more aromatic depth too – so far these higher tones are less perfumed than the Montrevenots. Supple. Silky, concentrated – obviously the previous was from higher vines than this! This certainly needs time to open – like an Epenots – very impressive – keep 10 years, even in 21, then enjoy!

2021 Pommard
A mix of Rue au Porc, Petit Noizons and Combe – A majority of Petits Noizons.
Also a nose of depth and guarded darker fruit. Broad, mouth-filling wine – a fine, grainless tannin as a support for everything else. Modest bitters add extra complexity to these finishing flavours. Another wine to wait for, but perhaps becoming accessible a little before the previous Beaune.

2021 Pommard Epenots
Just between Grand Epenots and Pezerolles in Petit Epenots.
Hmm, that’s really open, of fine fruity aroma but such impressive depth too – faintly with some graphite minerality. Sweetness, beautiful texture – plenty of concentration and an almost fluid style. The perfume of roses runs through this despite all being destemmed. That’s a wine worth a special search – bravo!

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