Tasted in Meursault with Antoine Jobard, 17 October, 2022.
Domaine Antoine Jobard
2 Rue Leignon
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 26
More reports with Domaine Antoine Jobard.
Antoine on 2022:
“In 2022 we made less wine than in 2020 – but I’m not looking for 70 hl/ha!`For both colours I’m very satisfied.”
Antoine on 2021:
“2021 here was much less volume than 2016 – the bottom of the hills was much more affected than the top in 2016 so we lost the volume wines – the Bourgognes and the villages – but in 2021 we lost at least 75% – It’s easy to see, I have 200 barrels in 22, itself not a big vintage, there are just 45 barrels in 2021. as for the wines, I wasn’t sure before the racking – they were serious and at the same time gave the impression of lacking material – but after racking and sulfuring they opened and became much more interesting – not opulent like 2009 or 2020 but they are a very nice surprise!”
The wines…
Antoine continues his very consistent run of fine vintages here – his signature wines – in both colours are worth a special search – as most years!
All still 100% cork here:
2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Usually from 5 parcels all from in the commune of Meursault – so could label Côte d’Or, but that’s not what his clients have habitually bought.
Hmm – now that’s nice – a very Meursault nose. Direct, a little muscle, plenty of structure but beautifully mouthwatering too. Steely finishing even – that’s simply excellent! Lovely citrus bitters vibrating in the finish…
2021 Meursault
An assembly of all the domaine’s villages lieu-dits this vintage – Antoine has been testing this for a number of years and found this approach to be the most complete and complex. ‘Of course, it’s more simple for me but there are advantages to making a large cuvée – you take up less oxygen, you lose less sulfur – and I have anyway a number of separate 1ers and with the reds – I still have over 20 cuvées.’
A more compact but still fresh and clean nose. Hmm, melting flavours – salinity and citrus-driven acidity – there’s minerality here too! Cleaner, sleeker lines than the Bourgogne and more finshing class too – simply super!
2021 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
A part with 60-year-old vines plus some from 2009.
More mineral, though more guarded aromas – still fresh and even faintly spiced. Supple, still wide and intense but here with more floral flavours in the citrus – more complex for sure. Intense in the finish too – here is a wine with impressive but still cushioned intensity.
A deeper and more yellow citrus aroma to start, becoming more mineral-focused with time. Fuller, a mm of cushioning, still intense and really with super waves, wide waves of successive explosions of flavour crashing onto the plate – yes – and not the structural rigour of some vintages of Poruzots. Bravo!
Less width of aroma but here is plenty of depth – a smoky mineral base with silky, almost waxy citrus fruit. Supple, layered, juicy – the best balance yet. Fine and intense flashes of finishing complexity. Great dimension – yes! Bravo again!
Together with Remi, part was replanted in March 2017. The vines were on the SO4 rootstock and ‘the longevity of those vines wasn’t great.’
Broad, with a modestly smoky width of complexity – very engaging. Extra depth, extra comfort but no lack of intensity. Broad finishing too – ooh this is so good – hard to compare with the Charmes – they are so different – but again bravo I think!
2021 St.Aubin 1er Sur le Sentier du Clou
2012 was the first vintage, 2 barrels. Came from wife’s family. Some parts were planted in 1992 and 2002 but the average vine age is 40 years.
A much more vertical nose – depth and plenty of interesting higher tones too. Supple, with flavour that moves finely over the palate – a little steely in the middle. The shape of this is top, the flavours a little behind the last three – but not lots – as it should be – excellent SA!
A finer, airy aromatic here – that’s very lovely. Supple, relaxing well over the palate – the flavours are intense and just a little more floral and expressive versus the ‘Clou’. Completely delicious – bravo!
Les Reds!
“All the reds were racked 3 weeks ago:”
2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
All in the commune of Pommard – about 1.5 ha. All destemmed.
Not broad but the depth is interesting and pure and shows good energy. Hmm, this is good – young – modestly with bitters and plenty of fruit intensity
2021 Beaune 1er Montrevenots
More open higher tones here – pretty floral accents too – that’s fine! Lots of energy and flavour dimension. The flavour is highly accessible and modestly cushioned. Long and interesting, indeed absorbing wine. I love!
2021 Beaune 1er Epenotes
Only 20 hl/ha here.
More colour – more aromatic depth too – so far these higher tones are less perfumed than the Montrevenots. Supple. Silky, concentrated – obviously the previous was from higher vines than this! This certainly needs time to open – like an Epenots – very impressive – keep 10 years, even in 21, then enjoy!
2021 Pommard
A mix of Rue au Porc, Petit Noizons and Combe – A majority of Petits Noizons.
Also a nose of depth and guarded darker fruit. Broad, mouth-filling wine – a fine, grainless tannin as a support for everything else. Modest bitters add extra complexity to these finishing flavours. Another wine to wait for, but perhaps becoming accessible a little before the previous Beaune.
Just between Grand Epenots and Pezerolles in Petit Epenots.
Hmm, that’s really open, of fine fruity aroma but such impressive depth too – faintly with some graphite minerality. Sweetness, beautiful texture – plenty of concentration and an almost fluid style. The perfume of roses runs through this despite all being destemmed. That’s a wine worth a special search – bravo!