Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet with Sébastien Caillat, 17 October 2022.
Domaine Lamy-Caillat
Place des Grands Puits,
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 (0)6 73 39 05 00
www.lamycaillat.fr
blog…
More reports of Domaine Lamy-Caillat
Sébastien on 2021:
“The volume was just a little more than in 2016 – I have no Champs Gains or Romanée – but I was very happy to have the new (old) pressior for volumes of 1-3 barrels. The rain and temperatures were almost the normal average of 50 years ago so we can call it an old-style vintage. It’s a vintage that has delivered wines in the style that I search for, slightly reductive and well padded (enrobé) it reminds me of 2013 or 2016 in some ways. I started harvesting on the 17th of September.”
The wines…
Outstanding – as every year! Buy what you can.
“I won’t be bottling for another year – 1 year in barrel, 1 year in tank:”
That’s got a lovely agrume nose – pushing towards the grapefruit spectrum. Vibrant, bubbling – super intensity but focused – not wide – so somehow easier to assimilate. Here is a lovely level of concentration. I like this very much – it’s also a great Bourgogne.
2021 St.Aubin Les Beau Pins
Planted in 2015 on a steep slope – cold at night, hot in the day. This the 4th harvest from those vines. ‘A really long fermentation – I was stressed!’
Hmm – sweet, direct ripe agrume – a super invitation. Like the Bourgogne but with extra volume and a more important level of energy. Intense – beautiful finishing clarity, ripe citrus but with almost a waxy silk to the texture. Yes!
More depth, more considered aromatics – slowly an extra, higher-toned, note – still citrus in style but quite different to the previous two – a little more floral perfumed. Wow – elegant, extra complexity, saline – gorgeous energy – mineral. Just so expressive – Bravo!
Actually in Tonton Marcel – normally – but this year with the two missing lieu-dits of La Romanée (etcetera) included.
Extra floral, though a little more compact at the base. Rounder, with more flesh, still juicy and complex – today showing less structural definition than the last – until you reach the great finish. Here it’s very long, more mineral in style in the finish than Pot Bois right now – more elevage needed here after the ‘almost ready’ Pot Bois – still, a potentially great wine.
From Champs Gain all the way to the top of the vines.
That’s quite a haunting nose – almost a mix of mandarin and Poire William at this stage – lovely. In the mouth more concentration and definition, mandarin fruit again – that’s in a super place right now. Almost certainly great wine.
And for the road:
Open ‘a few’ days – so they could certainly have been showing better…
2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
Bottled only a few weeks…
Compact high tones but more interest in the bass-notes – almost a little development here though the top notes are starting to expand and show a little floral impression too. Wide, melting, silky. There’s concentration here – like the 2021 – but not the same energy profile – this is more melting and silky.
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
Broader, more vibrant – some ripeness of fruit and modest reduction. Really a fine, mouth-watering thing – there’s volume here but open and fine – in shape, today I prefer this to the 2020
2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
Not a nose of force but here is a little extra interesting complexity – not ready but heading in a good direction. Hmm, this melts beautifully over the palate – super texture, growing with complexity. I’m surprised by this as I expect to be waiting a bit longer for good 15s but this is already showing something a bit extra – it’s already excellent with further potential.
Hmm – now there’s just enough development – notes of maturity – to make this very interesting. In the mouth too – taught, tension, minerality – flavours that are slowly, slowly fading. That’s in great form – and actually still quite young. The finish is quite floral too – Bravo 2013!