Tasted in Puligny with Philippe Jomain, 30 September 2020.
Philippe’s summary of the recent vintages:
Philippe on 2020:
“We had a good sortie of grapes which augered well for the harvest. After that, we were definitely short of water in the summer, so in the end we were down about 20% in volume but with better yields in the whites than the reds – a nice surprise was good acidities – I think a great potential for the whites. Reds varied a lot depending on the parcel – it will really depend.”
Philippe on 2019:
“A similar style of wine to the 2020s maybe; quite high alcohols but despite moderate acidities, they still have a good balance. Nothing close to the allowed rendements in this year – we were as much as 60% down in villages and 80% in some of the regionals – it was the frost that was principally to blame here. The communal wines were between 45-50 hl/ha so not too bad. All except the Combettes are already bottled now – all, as usual, with normal cork.”
An address that I always position as having well-priced, slightly rich but tasty, decently balanced, wines. I felt that they struggled with some of their 18s but they are clearly back to form in 2019. The wines have richness but also more than enough balancing energy and good complexity – they have impressive concentration too. Give all of them – even the aligoté – a little time, perhaps 1-2 years. You will be rewarded.
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté
One-fifth of the allowed rendement.
A forward and open nose, a little sweetness and pepper impression to the aromas. Energy and much intensity – no surprise given the low yields. A structural wine – you should wait – but I think it will produce something very interesting – a wine with core!
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Geographically, this could take a Côte d’Or label – but it’s (so far) not declared as such.
A more fruited abut complex nose – really quite inviting. Big, full-flavoured. Certainly ripe and rich but there’s an insistence of good acidity in these flavours. A big wine but a friendly one.
2019 St.Aubin 1er Les Frionnes
Just a small parcel here – 0.16 ha – that coupled with the frost – ‘we don’t have much.’
Hmm – that’s an attractive nose – faint sherbet, slightly agrume. Supple, pure, showing great energy – there’s a little oak showing here too – so be patient. Overall a super wine with a little richness but great balance.
A blend of two parcels.
Airy in one respect but in generality, tight – it’s hard to find particular notes here, just a suggestion of the floral. Bigger in the mouth, less overtly (or richly) concentrated. The intensity is good though – incisive wine with just a touch of richness. Another wine to wait for – saline inflected finishing notes. Not yet delicious but the constituent parts all look good, including the impressive finish. Wait 2 years…
2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
A little more open aroma, faintly floral – interesting but still a little tight. Rounder, mouth-filling, there is richness here too but it is better disguised by a lovely open energy and melting flavour over the palate – this is very good – I’d wait, of course, but this is lovely, finishing deliciously.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Pucelles
Hmm – here is an open nose – of fresh dimension of both fruit and minerality. Wide, mouth-filling, growing layers to the flavour – here with a bit of oak – but this is fine and relaxed over the palate. It’s a very good wine if not a great Pucelles today. But broad, minerally delicious finishing!
Combettes just racked so not showing.
On the Puligny side
A profound width of aroma here – not full power in these small tasting glasses, but clearly with an extra class. The richness of traditional Bâtard, but with energy, lots of energy – saline accented flavour and very good texture despite a certain tannin – or dry extract. Concentrated, not lacking for balance. You may certainly find more elegant wines from here, but you won’t find wines with less stuffing. Very good – and the finish is even better than that.