Tasted in Saint Aubin with Olivier Lamy, 22 October 2019.
Olivier on 2020:
A year with a bit of everything, sun, drought, frost. Later harvesting for good maturity – you could have harvested at 13° the analytics looked okay but to the taste, the skins and pips really weren’t ripe. Warm, low volume, ripe vintages like this, I use no new wood, fortunately, after the frost, I already cancelled most of my new barrel orders. It was certainly a vintage with more sun than the average of the last 10 years – you could say more luminous.
Olivier on 2019:
“Yes lots of frost. Our reds had less volume in 2019 than in 2016. The whites in villages behind the domaine were frosted but still gave 50 hl/ha but they were less stressed with plenty of rain. But yes much less in Chassagne and Puligny and in Chanière where we practically never frost we lost a lot. Then the flowering was poor, resulting in small grapes with not much juice. Certainly less than half a harvest – comparable to 16 and 17. The longer fermentations tended to be those wines from the marne blanche soils but those from the harder limestone soils were much easier. ”
A great performance once more from Olivier Lamy; there’s nothing here I wouldn’t happily make space for in my cellar and many are simply great wines. Bravo Olivier!
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Goujonne
From 65 year-old vines. Will have 2 years of elevage
A wide and intensely berried nose. Structured, faintly furry tannin. Growing wider and wider, long, mouth-watering. Holds great, faintly chocolatey.
2019 Santenay Clos des Hâtes
‘A nice genetic selection here’ approaching 20 years old. Racked 1 week.
A vibrant nose, deeply fruited. A bit mote mouth-filling and energetic. More lingering freshness in this finish too – I love the length here! That’s really excellent wine.
2019 St.Aubin 1er Derrière Chez Eduard
From 59-year-old vines on a steep slope.
Deeply aromatic but there’s some reduction too. More structural, plenty of freshness but a direct and concentrated berry fruit too. A burst of finishing flavour – ooh thats good.
A warm area that matures very fast – it’s steep, with hard limestone here. 55-year-old vines and starting with some high-density too.
Hmm, now thats a super nose, a beauty. Deep, beautiful layers of fine-textured flavour. thats a great Santenay for the patient. Bravo!
All the whites a little cloudy – and it’s still quite early in their elevage:
From hill above St.Aubin.
From tank, not bright but a great nose – wide with energetic citrus. A little tannin, mouth watering, great bourgogne. Bravo
10 different parcels of multiple exposures and vine ages.
A more agrume freshness greets you here. Wide, more open, more incisive and more citrus-mouth-watering. Bubbling with flavour and that tannic final kiss. Bravo again
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs
Young vines, only 16 years old and one of the earliest vineyards to ripen here – the last two were last harvested, this one of the first.
More depth of citrus complexity here but still with freshness. Big, fresh and incisive rather than muscular, but there is structure here too. Salivating waves of finishing flavour and really another great finish.
A blend of 40 year-old and 70 year-old fruit – more 40… Not racked as the malo finished late
Reductive but complex. Such vibrant energy but thats partly the retained gas. Long, a fine direct line of laser-like finishing flavour – it will be great.
2019 Santenay 1er Clos des Gravières Blanc
Very young vines in a sort of continuation of the Clos de Tavannes. A mix of two vine-ages, one large part (actually 90%) only 9 years old.
Good depth, more width – no reduction – really inviting. Intense, energetic and complex flavoured. Yes – like all – fabulously finishing!
2019 St.Aubin 1er Clos du Meix
0.7 metres planting distance here – so 14,000/ha planting density. Vines sited below the church.
A more considered but fine depth of ripe citrus – still with freshness. Less sweet but really mouth-filling, constantly changing, more mineral infused citrus here. Structural and so looooong…
2019 St.Aubin 1er les Frionnes
80 and 9 year-old vines.
A clean, fresh nose. Extra high toned fresh energy here – juicy wine. Ooh, really juicy finishing too.
2019 St.Aubin 1er Derrière Chez Eduard
Not the ‘hd’ cuvée, but this is still planted at 14k/ha
Thats really a much wider nose, never too much of this! Structural, mineral and pure, almost steely. Citric finishing energy here. That’s a great finish.
South-facing and warm here. 60-year-old vines always with small grapes.
A width of more composed citrus notes. Love the complexity here, not just flavour but really entwined with the texture too – grainy from tannin, overtly agrume delicious but not sweet. Bravo.
From two parcels.
Yes – the most impressive nose of all these so far – complex, a fresh bowl of citrus invitation. Calmer in the mouth yet intense and mouth-watering – really a growing intensity of flavour from this concentration – it could be great.
All the following tasted from barrel:
Old vines that produce small berries, ‘more character.’ Now the samples are all from barrel, so there’s more clarity, better texture but more reduction – normally.
A more vibrant depth to this nose but still not quite as complete as the last today. Calm in the mouth once more but here with a little extra of everything – bravo wine. Great finishing.
Yes. Next level aromatic despite how good the last wines showed. Big, gassy, so harder to be definitive, but everything is here for a great wine.
Red soil but vines virtually rooted on the mother rock, young vines. Some co-planted HD ‘so I see a small change each year’ says Olivier.
A faint touch of reduction and more density of aroma. Tannic, layered, incisive, growing in intensity. Another great wine.
20k/ha planting density. Finished fermenting only just before the harvest.
A little oak for the first time, but also a perfumed depth of citrus. Olivier laughs “It’s true, that barrel really annoys me its 7 years old now, and it keeps doing it!” Mouth-filling, tension but also a weight of completely fresh flavour too – waiting for great!
A width, a deep width of mineral-based citrus. More mouth-filling, less sweet, more grapefruit style here. Of course, mouth-wateringly delicious, really saline and juicy finishing too.
This grand cru is now planted at high density – 24 thousand vines per hectare! 2013 was the first vintage labelled ‘HD’
That’s floral-perfumed and quite a deep perfume too but very attractive. Very gassy – a shame for me, but a wine that still retains large proportions as the gas fades. The most energetic and fresh Criots I’ve tasted so far this year, and grand, grand, grand finishing.
And a little something in bottle?
2018 St.Aubin 1er les Frionnes
Bottled July – Composed, wide, inviting – silky. Also some tannin, and width of concentrated flavour – super tasty but I’d keep a couple of years, saline and a little floral finishing – lovely!
2017 St.Aubin 1er les Frionnes
A wine that with air becomes very fine, coming more into focus and with extra interest. Ooh, thats big but fresh and giving, still a grain of tannin again. Great finishing
2016 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
This bottled half with DIAM, half cork, this one is cork.
Deeper, an extra ripeness and development of fruit. Ooh – great, intense, crystal clarity, super intensity – high-level for all but none overdone.
2016 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
This one with a DIAM seal.
Totally fresh nose, the wine showing none of the development seen with cork. Concentrated, wide, texturally silky but clearly with a little richness too. Finer and finer as you head to the finish.
2015 St.Aubin 1er Clos de la Chatenière
Ooh, thats younger and more aromatically vibrant. Big in the mouth, a vibrant wall of flavour is growing here but not overripe, just a wide complexity of slightly warmer spice to the flavour.
2013 St.Aubin 1er Clos du Meix
Also a faint development, still grainy, long, a hint of exotic, of spice, of cooked fruit but wide and delicious.
Vibrant, fresh but also with development. Starting to show extra age-related complexity, great sweeping vistas of flavour pushed forward by great acidity. Great finishing. Completely gorgeous. – for a long time my favourite vintage, and here’s one of the rare wines that underpins that.