Tasted in Chassagne with Thibault Morey, 02 December 2020.
Thibault on 2020:
“The vines began their cycle very early – lots of work but in good conditions – no orders went out during the first confinement so we had all the time for the vines. In general, I think the warmer years are good for burgundy and the vines are adapting well – also to the dryness – of course by working to push the roots deeper – but it’s tough for the young vines of course, so it can stop at this level! The rendements were fine for whites, the reds a little lower. I think a style more 14 or 17 for the whites.”
Thibault on 2019:
“A smaller harvest, some frost followed by a poor flowering with coulure and millerandes – that’s not a complaint because it was great for the quality, despite such lower yields, something we couldn’t achieve with simple de-budding in 2018 for example. The degrees are still slightly higher than normal here, but all the whites are ‘only’ between 13 and 13.5°.”
There was a fumé barrel accent to many wines in 2017, it was largely gone last year – at the time of my tasting, it was back for these 2019s. Still, a very fine result – multiple grand vins from Thibault once more in 2019! There’s quite a set of 2019 reds – to keep – chez Thibault, high quality and full of energy too.
All reds bottled – the last, the 1ers, in October. All natural cork, with NDTec for the grand crus – “With the evolution in the market I don’t think the cork quality has been higher thn now – it would be a shame to change them,” says Thibault.
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Côte d’Or
All vines in the commune of Chassagne
A big nose of ripe fruit, almost a little liqueur. Plenty of mouth-filling flavour here, melting, modestly oaked, a baseline with a little tannin though almost no grain. Long, indeed wide too in the finish. Flavour packed and very good.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes Vieilles-Vignes
Next to Boudriotte
Like the Bourgogne plenty of colour. A width of aroma, fine, faintly spiced, not so deep. A touch extra structure but it’s very well covered by the lovely fruit. Quite smoky from the barrel but still delicious wine with lots of finishing intensity…
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
Was a blend, but the Farendes is now pulled out and planted with white, so just Francemont above Cardeuse, close to Tête de Clos on the Santenay side of Morgeot. 50% new oak for these two premiers.
Extra width and depth for this nose, faintly herbed but less oak. Super – it’s wide, über-fine tannin, mouth-watering but at the same time with plenty of flavour depth. Long and tasty – give all of these reds a little cellar time…
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean.
The old original section, just Thibault and Domaine Paul Pillot are here.
A very faint accent of reduction, slowly evolving higher, fresher tones too. More mineral and structural but nothing hard here – the flavour melting in fine fashion over the palate
“I’ve no special memories of the fermentations, maybe the malos were relatively quick – all were done in Feb-March.”
This also from the commune of Chassagne
Deep, faintly smoky, nicely round – a good invitation. Fresher and more precisely structured then the nose suggested. That’s mineral and simply super finishing – bravo.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Houillières
Domaine – Direction Vide Bourse on the Puligny side of the Route Nationale.
A more vibrant width of aroma – slightly mineral. A little more volume in the mouth, clarity of flavour, modestly oaked. Again with a mineral base and a lovely, intense, finishing peak of flavour. Excellent villages…
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er en Caillerets
Extra energy and dimension to this nose – that’s a great invitation. Just a touch sweeter, but just a part of tons of open complexity – an airy but never meagre style to this wine. Long finishing. Really an excellent Caillerets…
Narrow but deeper, fresher but more airy – great clarity of aroma. Vibrant, growing in width, layered flavour. This is wrapped in a suggestion of fat today but this is great wine in all directions – bravo
This and the previous 1er bottled just 2 weeks
Like all the wines a suggestion of smoke from the barrels, but it’s on a lower level versus most of the others. Beautiful clarity of flavour – a more overtly concentrated too. Long finishing. A beauty – also great but I’ve a sneaky preference for the Romanée…
Barrel elevage before being racked into an amphora – gres not terracotta – ‘I thought the oak a little too obvious at that stage.’ This now in tank.
Hmm, a faint hint of reduction but clearly class, class, class – a super nose. Deep but also wide, a touch of fat, layers of flavour here, the oak is still largely present but this is a wine that clearly shows it’s proximity to Montrachet in terms of its depth of flavour, shape and burst of extra finishing flavour. Bravo – but be patient.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchots de Dessus
Less weight but a subtle extra width of complexity here. More open, airy and energetic – quite sweet but the agrume fruit that follows tends to balance that out. As always a great wine – with a wonderful finish, but I find a little sweet this year…
2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Pucelles
Wide, vibrant, faintly reductive agrume too – yes! Incisive, mineral, plenty of density – structured wine – a little ‘harder’ than the Chassagnes in terms of the structure – more chiselled. A great finish. Have patience with this, though the oak is much less evident than with the other wines…
From the Chassagne side, close to the only tree in the vineyard! ‘Still young vines – 24 years old – but yes I agree that the vintage was very kind to Bâtard – some years it’s hard to justify the price difference between this and some of the 1ers – but the difference is large in 2019.’
The smoky oak returns to the depth of this nose, but the nose is about many other things too – very attractively complex. Driving, mineral, a faint reduction but that takes nothing from the energy. Exploding wider with flavour in the finish. This is really a great Bâtard