Morey-Coffinet – 2019


Thibault Morey 2020 Morey-CoffinetTasted in Chassagne with Thibault Morey, 02 December 2020.

Domaine Morey-Coffinet
6 Place du Grand Four
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 31 71
More reports for Domaine Morey-Coffinet.

Thibault on 2020:
The vines began their cycle very early – lots of work but in good conditions – no orders went out during the first confinement so we had all the time for the vines. In general, I think the warmer years are good for burgundy and the vines are adapting well – also to the dryness – of course by working to push the roots deeper – but it’s tough for the young vines of course, so it can stop at this level! The rendements were fine for whites, the reds a little lower. I think a style more 14 or 17 for the whites.

Thibault on 2019:
A smaller harvest, some frost followed by a poor flowering with coulure and millerandes – that’s not a complaint because it was great for the quality, despite such lower yields, something we couldn’t achieve with simple de-budding in 2018 for example. The degrees are still slightly higher than normal here, but all the whites are ‘only’ between 13 and 13.5°.

The wines:

There was a fumé barrel accent to many wines in 2017, it was largely gone last year – at the time of my tasting, it was back for these 2019s. Still, a very fine result – multiple grand vins from Thibault once more in 2019! There’s quite a set of 2019 reds – to keep – chez Thibault, high quality and full of energy too.

All reds bottled – the last, the 1ers, in October. All natural cork, with NDTec for the grand crus – “With the evolution in the market I don’t think the cork quality has been higher thn now – it would be a shame to change them,” says Thibault.

2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Côte d’Or
All vines in the commune of Chassagne
A big nose of ripe fruit, almost a little liqueur. Plenty of mouth-filling flavour here, melting, modestly oaked, a baseline with a little tannin though almost no grain. Long, indeed wide too in the finish. Flavour packed and very good.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes Vieilles-Vignes
Next to Boudriotte
Like the Bourgogne plenty of colour. A width of aroma, fine, faintly spiced, not so deep. A touch extra structure but it’s very well covered by the lovely fruit. Quite smoky from the barrel but still delicious wine with lots of finishing intensity…

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
Was a blend, but the Farendes is now pulled out and planted with white, so just Francemont above Cardeuse, close to Tête de Clos on the Santenay side of Morgeot. 50% new oak for these two premiers.
Extra width and depth for this nose, faintly herbed but less oak. Super – it’s wide, über-fine tannin, mouth-watering but at the same time with plenty of flavour depth. Long and tasty – give all of these reds a little cellar time…

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean.
The old original section, just Thibault and Domaine Paul Pillot are here.
A very faint accent of reduction, slowly evolving higher, fresher tones too. More mineral and structural but nothing hard here – the flavour melting in fine fashion over the palate

Les Blancs:
I’ve no special memories of the fermentations, maybe the malos were relatively quick – all were done in Feb-March.

2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côte d’Or
This also from the commune of Chassagne
Deep, faintly smoky, nicely round – a good invitation. Fresher and more precisely structured then the nose suggested. That’s mineral and simply super finishing – bravo.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Houillières
Domaine – Direction Vide Bourse on the Puligny side of the Route Nationale.
A more vibrant width of aroma – slightly mineral. A little more volume in the mouth, clarity of flavour, modestly oaked. Again with a mineral base and a lovely, intense, finishing peak of flavour. Excellent villages…

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er en Caillerets
Extra energy and dimension to this nose – that’s a great invitation. Just a touch sweeter, but just a part of tons of open complexity – an airy but never meagre style to this wine. Long finishing. Really an excellent Caillerets…

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
Narrow but deeper, fresher but more airy – great clarity of aroma. Vibrant, growing in width, layered flavour. This is wrapped in a suggestion of fat today but this is great wine in all directions – bravo
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er En Remilly
This and the previous 1er bottled just 2 weeks
Like all the wines a suggestion of smoke from the barrels, but it’s on a lower level versus most of the others. Beautiful clarity of flavour – a more overtly concentrated too. Long finishing. A beauty – also great but I’ve a sneaky preference for the Romanée…
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Dents du Chien
Barrel elevage before being racked into an amphora – gres not terracotta – ‘I thought the oak a little too obvious at that stage.’ This now in tank.
Hmm, a faint hint of reduction but clearly class, class, class – a super nose. Deep but also wide, a touch of fat, layers of flavour here, the oak is still largely present but this is a wine that clearly shows it’s proximity to Montrachet in terms of its depth of flavour, shape and burst of extra finishing flavour. Bravo – but be patient.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchots de Dessus
Less weight but a subtle extra width of complexity here. More open, airy and energetic – quite sweet but the agrume fruit that follows tends to balance that out. As always a great wine – with a wonderful finish, but I find a little sweet this year…

2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Pucelles
A contract…
Wide, vibrant, faintly reductive agrume too – yes! Incisive, mineral, plenty of density – structured wine – a little ‘harder’ than the Chassagnes in terms of the structure – more chiselled. A great finish. Have patience with this, though the oak is much less evident than with the other wines…

2019 Bâtard-Montrachet
From the Chassagne side, close to the only tree in the vineyard! ‘Still young vines – 24 years old – but yes I agree that the vintage was very kind to Bâtard – some years it’s hard to justify the price difference between this and some of the 1ers – but the difference is large in 2019.’
The smoky oak returns to the depth of this nose, but the nose is about many other things too – very attractively complex. Driving, mineral, a faint reduction but that takes nothing from the energy. Exploding wider with flavour in the finish. This is really a great Bâtard

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