I tasted in Meursault with Jean-Philippe, the 20 October 2019.
Jean-Philippe on 2019:
“It was a small quantity. Not an easy vintage from the perspective of the climate; the springtime started rather cold – we had frost – then there was rain and wind at flowering, probably producing the most millerandage I’ve seen in my career – more even than in 2005. In the end we harvested close to the middle of September. The wines are charming, whilst showing some richness. I am for precision and minerality, there’s more weight in 2019. There’s less wine too – a petite-demi-recolte – so less than half anormal harvest…”
A range of 2019s to be proud of – there are many covetable 2019s in Jean-Philippe’s cellar…
The famous lost cepage thats coming back into focus – 30 years ago we had big grapes and lots of them, last year we managed 13 degrees, in the 80s sometimes it wasn’t higher than 9°!
Lovely freshness, a big nose but with a certain elegance. Nice sparkling complexity and energy – that’s ingraining on the palate. Super – indeed excellent aligoté – but aligoté with a GREAT finish too – bravo!
Vines in the commune of Meursault – from the north and south of the village. Elevage in a mix of 500 and 600-litre barrels – here the soils have the most clay of the domaine – ‘I’m looking for something easy to appreciate – a tasty wine.’
Not a full-power nose, but a fine nose – yellow citrus, rather composed vs the aligoté. Vibrant, a little minerality at the base – some richness of texture combining well with the energy and the intensity. Mineral finishing – it’s great here (again!)…
2019 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Vieilles-Vignes
From Pellans and Millerandes. All in 500 and 600 l barrels. Bourgogne Côte d’Or from this vintage wasn’t indicated as such before.
Hmm, that’s still far from forward, but this nose has a seamless quality toiits width. Still just a little fat, but extra intensity, and growing too. A little saline, lots of complexity. Already excellent…
Usually 65% domaine grapes, in Auxey and Nantoux (bought) usually a big restaurant clientelle for this in north-west France to go with their fruit de mer dishes…
A small but fine nose in the style of the previous chardonnays. A little more vibrant – this shimmers with energy. Delicious, nicely complex, framed with an accent of salinity. Great!
Vines with a lovely position with their back to the north – it’s hot in the afternoons. The grapes are always golden here. White clay soil. An aperitif wine for Jean-Philippe, made from young 12-year-old vines; ‘They need more time, maybe another 5-10 years.’
Here’s a slightly more open nose, there’s extra depth. A little more supple, still vibrant energy, the texture is super. The palate widens towards the finish – it’s more mineral here. That’s super…
From Les Nampoillons from the side of Auxey towards St.Romain. Here the soil is more limestone and schist. Latest grapes to be harvested. ‘Historically they matured but always stayed green, but that’s changing a little in recent years.’
Fresh, a little herbed – fine herbs. Extra width and freshness once more – more classic JP Fichet in style. Really juicy finishing. More lime than lemon finishing. My new favourite!
From Les Clous, Chaumes de Narvaux, Limozin and others – 2-thirds hillside, one-third from the plain. ‘I’ve really tried to make Meursault in this style since 1996, precision and less oak was my starting point.’
Compact but still both engaging and inviting – like all these, the last drops in the glass open wider and show more attracively. A vibrant energy here, mouthg-watering, almost juicy again – that’s very fine. An easy purchase recommendation – bravo!
2019 Meursault Meix sous Château
From a Clos in the middle of Meursault village. Limestone on high, clay below, ‘the most buttery of the domaine.’
Higher-toned with some cushioned yellow citrus aroma. Wide, more supple, layered, beautiful clarity, Depth of flavour here. A little sweet but not cloying. Old-style Meursault but delicious all the same.
‘The smallest harvest of my career here in 2019…’
As always, a modest volume but with many invitations; a little cushioned aspect to this nose. Bright, sparkly attack of flavour. Layers of meltingly fresh flavour – depth of that flavour too. Intensity but not too much. Almost vibrantly finishing and lasting gorgeously. My new favourite.
2018 Meursault Gruyache
Now 92-year-old vines, planted in 1928, that sit under Les Charmes.
More open width of aroma than most, almost a suggestion of the floral. Attack, some structural rigour – in a good way – a wine to keep and enjoy when 5-10 years old. Really excellent.
2019 Meursault Tessons
Modest volume of aroma but there’s a little suggestion of vibrant minerality here. Wide, spiced, über-complex, I generally prefer the clarity of his Chevalier to this and that’s the case again this year, but what a wine!
2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Referts
‘Always hard to drink after the Meursaults…’
A wider aromatic here – more open with faint clarified butter and lemon citrus. More direct, a nice combination of intensity and energy. Really a great finish here, wide and super persistent.
I didn’t taste the reds this year, but did taste this interesting pair of wines – from 2018 – Vendanges Tardives!
Vin de France as not allowed to use VT label. One cluster per vine was left and was harvested at the start of November. Almost 100% new wood. 2g of residual sugar
Hmm, that’s very attractive – not the aroma of an obviously sweet wine – not compared to 2019s anyway! Hmm, richness of flavour but the beautifully mouth-watering acidity more than balances. I don’t find this a bit sweet, driving, intense. Bravo!
2018 Vendanges Tardive Cuvée 2
A wider nose, slightly reductive, slightly sweeter. More mineral and direct, still a little fat, layered but growing with mouth-watering intensity. 2.3g residual here. I slightly prefer the first but there’s not much in it…