Jean-Marc Pillot – 2019

24.12.2020billn

Jean-Marc Pillot 2020Tasted with Jean-Marc Pillot, in Chassagne-Montrachet, 29 October 2020.

Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
Le Haut des Champs
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 39 95
jeanmarc-pillot.com
More reports for Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot.

Jean-Marc on 2020:
In 2020 we had a lovely harvest, low volume for the reds but a grand quality in both colours I think.

Jean-Marc on 2019:
Nothing is bottled at this stage, the wines were definitely not ready before the harvest. The fruity wines I’ll probably bottle in December but nothing before. There’s 50% less volume though due mainly to the frost – and that was in the 1ers too. The challenge was to keep the vivacity, the energy and an airy quality – and I’m sure the second winter en-masse is a key to this.

The wines…

2018 brought a consistently great set of wines in this cellar – if anything, they might be even better in the 2019 vintage. If I was wearing one, I’d take my hat off to Jean-Marc!

DIAMs below the Chassagne 1ers, all the rest sealed with cork:

2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Hautes de Champs
A lovely aroma of fine, pure, lemon fruit here – very attractive. Easier in the mouth than the nose suggests, wide, delicious, slowly mouth-watering – I was expecting a little more attack, but this just cruises along, particularly in the finish where it’s great – it just needs to tighten in the middle.

2019 Montagny Les Bassets
Freshness and depth – a vertical nose – that’s a super invitation. Extra direction and freshness, really mouth-watering, Saline, long – medium weight, maximum flavour. Bravo!
2019 Rully Les Cree
A little more lemon sunshine in this nose. Structural and fresh, really mouth-watering, long – tactile. That’s a super finish. And equally great!
2019 St.Romain Les Perrières
Only half a harvest here
An accent that’s more floral with this wine, finely citrus below. Extra space, lovely melting structure – this is a great set of wines! A fine, texture and the first that suggests a little barrel – but faintly. A fine finish too – such a great entry wine.
2019 Chassgne-Montrachet
Hmm – that’s a nose with a lot of subtle complexity – not a big nose but an engrossing one. Not a particularly sweet wine more the proper and complex agrume experience. Finesse – floral finishing too – bravo!

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Chenevottes
A larger nose, still elegant and fresh, the smell of the skins of citrus fruit. Cool fruit, silken texture. Mouth-watering, long slow waves of almost juicy flavour. There is so much more to come too… Touched with a little salt, barrel and tannin in the finish – excellent wine.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot Farendes
A little more weight and width to the aromas – still elegantly higher-toned. Crystalline, such purity, minerality, gorgeously citric finishing, with that touch of tannic texture – top – bravo!

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Macherelles
The first with a little smoky reduction. Wider, a little extra depth to the flavour, also touched by the smoky barrel. Very long, mouth-watering. Another super wine but be a little patient if you want to avoid the barrel…

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Maltroie
From 70 year-old vines. Only two barrels – this still in barrel.
A strong core of aroma – a little tighter around this core. More powerful, layered with minerality. Not a brute but muscled and for keeping. Great finishing – a big wave of flavour – great things await! Bravo.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers
Only 2 metres away but such a difference…
Back to a more floral nose hyper-elegant – and there’s extra perfume with air! Much more supple – but no less wide. Growing in the middle almost bursting and becoming juicy in the finish – always balanced by that small tannic texture, beautiful last drops of green citrus in the finish. Love!

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Baudines
An extra citrus ripeness in this wine – almost a golden if not quite exotic, fruit. Wide, very mineral, a little extra depth to the texture here. Long slow waves of finishing flavour again – almost patisserie type of flavour. Excellent.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Marc
From vines within Vergers that were planted in 1910 – 40 ouvrées, actually the climat is Pitangeret.
A vertical nose, deep with ripe lime. The most round and mouth-filling of these – so fresh and juicily mouth-watering. Very precise, slightly reductive – a purity that is captivating. Almost a little barrel toffee in the finish today. Very complex. Excellent wine, possibly great wine…

2019 Corton-Charlemagne
A width of aroma, lemon, barrel-cream, subtly reductive. A touch of gas. Large-scaled, beautifully mineral. Not quite the same clarity of flavour as some of the previous but this – is large and very long finishing. Very long!

2019 Chevalier-Montrachet
Just above the cabotte of Bouchard.
A broad nose, with a little higher-toned style versus the Charlemagne – intense white flowers, acacia-like. Large-scaled again, here with a clarity that the Charlemagne doesn’t yet show. Complex, a hint of reduction that wasn’t visible elsewhere, very long, digestif. Top!

Les Reds:
A rare domaine in Chassagne – these days – that produces half red, and in this vintage there’s a little more red than white:

2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Grands Terres
Also bottled
Deeply coloured. Big, open, glossy dark fruit. Depth of flavour, slightly structural, mouth-watering – gorgeous dark fruit, no hard edges just a faint tannin without grain. Bravo Bourgogne.
2019 Santenay Champs Claude
The parcel touches Chassagne, Claude Buzard and Pierre-Yves Colin also have vines here. This racked last week.
Also a very forward, purer red fruit, wide, hyper attractive nose. Rounder, the same purity as the nose. Long, faintly, texturally tannic though again without grain. Bravo.
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles-Vignes
From about 2.5 hectares of vines in three parcels, parcels mainly planted by father and grandfather so vines of at least 45 years average age.
Starting deeper, here’s a nose that needs air – slowly blossoming with a style not dissimilar to the Santenay, if less forward. Like the nose, starting a little more compact, framed by its tannin, once more with no grain. Reaching the heights in the finish – a truly great finish, the wine before needing more time and/or air. Should be great.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Macherelles
The domaine has a little white here too – but there’s more red.
Vertical, floral above, complex but less communicative below. Mouth-filling, flavourful but not divulging all its secrets today. Like the last, there’s a lot that’s on display in the finish – just an accent of barrel here too. Not a bruising Chassagne red, really a finesse. Excellent wine.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
A more obvious dark berry-fruit nose. Mouth-filling again, here the impression is of a little intensity in the width. An extra salinity, perhaps licorice towards the end. A beautiful finish but the least open of all here. The flavour ‘sticks’ in the finish. Be patient with this one.

2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean
An attack of dark-red berries – such a difference. The most mouth-filling of all, in this case also with the most freshness. Layers of fine and energetic, mouth-watering, flavour. Perfumed finishing. That’s my new favourite. Bravo!

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There is one response to “Jean-Marc Pillot – 2019”

  1. Fred Schilling25th December 2020 at 2:32 amPermalinkReply

    J-M Pillot makes a consistently superb Clos St Jean Rouge. From all accounts the whole vineyard should be planted to pinot.

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