Tasted in Meursault with Anne Morey, 23 October 2020.
Anne Morey on 2020:
“We had a lot of luck I think – though we started with practically no winter, no snow, no frost etcetera – so everything started very early. Spring showed the difference – the vines were exploding. We had to delay some bottling as the machine service couldn’t come due to the lockdown. But actually, we reinforced our team and we could happily keep up with the vines – no tourists or tasters – we really returned to the source. I remember no real pressure from anything. Only when we came back from holiday did we see any modest suggestions of oïdium – I forgot to mention that we lit candles on three nights, I’m not sure we made any difference, but we chose not to take the chance in Bâtard. One or two very warm days and some of the areas with not much soil started to suffer. 24-31 August! The first time our harvesting was all done in August. We had very little to triage, we had lovely grapes and a great young team. The harvest was really good. There were two types of wines in white – the hares and the tortoises – some really taking their time. I see a lot of finesse despite quite high degrees. But the acidities are super up to 7 grams per litre for the tartaric. The aromas are splendid.”
Anne Morey on 2019:
“Lots of common points with 2020; cleanliness, balance, great acidity but 2020 is a little more classic, 2019 a little more powerful. The terroir is more obvious in the 20s at the same stage of development. For a vintage with not much malic acid the malos in the whites have certainly not been rushed! 2019 red vinifications were classic – in 2020 for the reds we did practically nothing, everything came so easily…”
What Anne chooses to show changes each year – this year, for instance, no Bourgogne Rouge, Santenots or Bâtard – but what remains completely consistent is the quality of the wines that are shown – even when they have late malos. An excellent address for 2019s.
Racked into tank, waiting to bottle.
This nose is quite high-toned, round, cushioned and really inviting. Mouth-filling, concentrated, slowly opening, equally slowly mouth-watering. Depth of luscious flavour. Lower energy but high on tasty flavour.
2019 Meursault Durots, Rouge
Below Santenots, deeper soil, flatter land. We rarely have such roundness in this cuvée. There are some chardonnay vines co-planted here
Deeply fruited, faintly reductive. Wider, more incisive, lovely texture with a suggestion of tannin but no grain. Less overtly sweet after the Monthelie. A delicious finish – that’s completely lovely!
2019 Morey-Blanc, Volnay 1er Les Pitures
Bought in grapes, second vintage. On the hill.
Classically and beautifully floral accented – that’s super. More structural, but with energy, with depth of flavour too – chiselled. Very dark finishing, almost a licorice here but super, forceful, properly structured wine. Excellent!
2019 Morey-Blanc, Aloxe-Corton 1er Clos de Chapitre
Since 99 here. “When Pierre lost the metayage of Lafon he started Morey-Blanc to help fill the gap, life was much simpler for a négociant in those days – if you wanted to have 35 barrels of Meursault-Charmes in the cellar then you could do so relatively easily – today you are happy if you have one!” Here they decided that they would only buy from owners who also bottle their own wine as they clearly had the confidence in their own product.
A more airy, fresher nose, a little floral too. Supple, wide, depth of flavour. Coffee in the finishing flavours, small waves of finishing flavour not quite juicy as there’s a suggestion of tannin that dries the finish but that will quickly fade. Delicious all the same.
Anne forgot the sample of the aligoté last year, but not this:
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté
A broad nose, high-toned, faintly spiced too. Mineral, mouth-watering rather serious for aligoté but opens and keeps growing in interest. The finish is excellent; wide, lots of highlights. Super but keep this for a year or two before broaching.
None of the chardonnay is bottled, some the malos are not yet finished, like the next:
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Some fermentary aromas. Supple, but with a little textural richness, the middle and finishing flavours are more mouth-watering and rather delicious. This should be excellent.
Also malo underway. 3 climats, all harvested and pressed separately, Pellans, Chaumes de Narvaux and Forges near Auxey.
Like the last, the nose is obviously not finished. A little larger-scaled, silky, depth of flavour, proper ginger-spiced middle complexity – and long finishing – this could be a great villages, it needs just a little zip in the first flavours when finished.
First vintage for this domaine wine – near Forges.
The nose here seems a little more finished, a deliciously inviting floral aroma overlays the fruit. Supple, mineral, lovely energy, nothing excessive but I find this great villages – melting with mineral flavour, a very modest richness, today showing a little oak but very fine. A little finishing tannin in the impressive finish.
Malo ‘almost finished.’
This smells very fine – ginger-spiced – a treat. Slips far too easily into the mouth – gliding, guiding you through the middle and finishing flavour. Texturally gorgeous. A great finish. A great villages.
2019 Meursault 1er Perrières
Malo recently finished, sulfured last week. Probably for bottling between March and May.
Here the nose is a little tighter, yet with some very fine and pure fruit notes at the core. Wide, supple, layers of flavour. Very long-lasting. This is completely delicious wine I’d like a hint more energy and that may come in the last part of elevage.