Tasted in Meursault with Eric Bodin, 27 October, 2020.
Eric on 2020:
“In 2020 our harvest started 20 August – we had to attack as the sugars suddenly started to rise – we still had 13.5-14°, I think 2020 could be more balanced (than 2019.) Ignoring the frosted part, still 35-40 hl/ha in the vintage so in total we can say roughly half a harvest.“
Eric on 2019:
“We had to contend with frost – 5-6 April was the worst, we lost volume in the north around Luchets and Gruyaches, in the direction of Auxey. We had some rain in May but after that, it was rather dry. The volume also down due to ‘not the best’ flowering conditions so we saw lots of coulure. We didn’t just have dry we had instances of 40°C too. The reds flowered a little later so were less affected – still there were some losses but probably they were mostly down to the dry rather than the flowering. Quite high alcohols but good acidity – they could become strict – let’s see…”
Timing plays such a large rôle in tasting – don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. This was hands-down my greatest tasting experience for 2018s, the 2019s offering a more compact though well-presented experience – excellent but no fanfare. Not on this day. I see less structure and less direction than the 2018s, that said, the wines are more than pleasant 😊…
2019 Bourgogne Blanc
All in the commune of Meursault
The nose is quite compact here. Round, supple, a depth of concentrated flavour. Layered and completely delicious finish, less of the overt energy of 2018 that was on display this time last year, but the characteristic faint finishing tannin of the vintage is subtly visible here though.
Clos de la Baronne, Crotots, a little Gruyaches plus new from Sous la Velle
Here the nose is just a little larger in form, some impression of green-skinned fruit. A little more airy and supple starting. More mineral is the impression and from the middle onwards this is showing a lovely melting flavour. Slowly finishing in a subtle but persistent way.
2019 Meursault Les Vireuls
Planted by Jean-Marc’s father in 1968.
Here’s a subtle extra depth of aroma, very faintly mineral. More width, more open, also more structural – melting with intensity. This is more classic for the domaine – energetic, complex and sustaining a great finish.
2019 Meursault Meix Chaveaux
A little more open again – each wine showing a little extra volume – here with a rather classic, faintly spiced note. More mouth-filling a little more depth of fresh flavour – a little warmer fruit than in Vereuils less open but deliciously mouth-watering and faintly tannic. This is excellent.
2019 Meursault Luchets
A little cushioning to the nose here – it’s the oak that’s just showing – mixed with a freshness of lemon. The biggest in the mouth so far, lots of mouth-watering, almost juicy, flavour here. Complex flavour, a touch of tannin. Really open finishing.
“Tillets – there is none, it was pulled out after 2015 harvest but is now replanted.”
Jean-Marc explains “I find the classification severe in Meursault, the differences between the levels are clear and well-defined though. There is logic. Though Tessons should be a 1er!” Here the nose shrinks a little. Ethereal, lightness of touch, mouth-watering with gorgeous flavour. Not a big wine, but I would say a complete wine – or it will be when the nose returns. Probably great…
2019 Meursault 1er Porusot
There was a higher and lower section but the higher is now replanted, so this from dessous. First harvest from the new vines will be in 2020.
A little more open, more depth of reductive flavour. Ooh – now that’s interesting; intense, beautifully textured, a little saline and complex – certainly a more structural wine. This is easily my favourite so far. Excellent 1er Cru.
‘Charmes is earth, Genevrières is the air, Perrières is the fire,’ suggests Jean-Marc. A little frost here unfortunately in 2019, old vines planted in the 1940s. Vines in the bottom, north.
Where the Porsots had depth, this has width of aroma. Wide, vibrant, lots of energy – you would think from the top of this vineyard! That’s really supper – even better than the Porusots. Bravo!
2019 Meursault 1er Clos de Bouchères
This 1.3-hectare clos is a monopole of the domaine – 2011 was the first vintage, before that they had ‘simply’ Bouchères. Today, one-third of the vines are 25-30-years-old, the rest are over 45.
That’s not a large nose but it’s one of beautiful aromatic clarity. A touch of tannin, a nicely structured wine – Porusots with more dimension. Sustaining an excellent indeed a beautiful finish – quite saline here. Excellent
2019 Meursault 1er Les Perrières
Vines from the 1950s.
Mineral, slightly reductive – above there are florals too – a complete nose here – though again on a low volume. Wide, insistent, growing in intensity. A little tannin in the texture, wide finishing, layered but still very much a baby. The finish is so strong for a time that it seems to grow rather than fade.
And how about something bottled?:
Ooh – that’s a nice and slightly more powerful nose – very floral, super. Silky, supple, part delicate, part mouth-watering. Long, modestly saline, waves of finishing flavour. Bravo.
2018 Meursault 1er Clos des Bouchères
Here’s more structural aromatic, depth of aroma too – but far from open. Richer, more depth of flavour, more intensity in the middle and finish too. That’s great finishing – needs to show a little more in the start though.
2018 Meursault 1er Perrières
Also a nose that’s relatively bashful today. Wide, growing fuller a line of intense flavour in the middle. The finish is mouth-watering and delicious. Holding very subtly. Excellent but only showing a part of what it can…
Older, complex, some development, growing in width and interest with air – getting better all the time. Ooh – beautifully transparent – a clarty of flavour, intensity – ooh that’s a great finish – Bravo!