Tasted in Bouzeron with Loïc Cornuau & Max Blondelle, 20 October 2020.
1 Rue de la Fontaine
Tel: +33 3 85 87 62 10
More reports on Domaine Chanzy.
Jean Baptiste Jessiaume and his father left the domaine after the 2019 harvest. Max Blondelle joined in January 2020 as cellar-master/winemaker – Max had previously worked, for many years, with Jean-Pierre Confuron at Domaine Chanson.
Max & Loïc on 2019:
There have been some bottlings but the majority of our wine is still ‘en masse’ – we are planning to filter as little as possible. I think it’s a good, if sunny, vintage. In both colours the average yield was 28 hl/ha – good quality but practically half a harvest. The frost was quite strong both here and in Rully so that’s the principal reason. The reds have plenty of material but are still accessible, even elegant. As for the whites, a little more is in bottle, but the majority is not planned to be bottled before the start of 2021.
Hopefully there will be a little continuity at Chanzy now – they have a very enthusiastic and experienced team now. That said, there are anyway a whole bunch of easy to recommend, very well made wines in this 2019 vintage!
All wines are sealed with ‘technical’ corks here; a mix of Trescasses, Lafitte and DIAM, though some natural cork is still used for the ‘grand reds!’ whatever that means!
2019 Côteaux Bourguignons
Vines Paris l’Hopital, all gamay.
Hmm, that’s a lovely perfumed freshness. Supple, quite concentrated, easy over the palate – not the largest energy but with a long, mouth-watering finish. Very good.
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Fortunés
All domaine vines, mainly in bottom of Mercurey, some Bouzeron and St.Martin l’Aigue
Plenty of colour. A deep nose, perhaps extra depth from reduction but clearly offering more, indeed there’s a fine clarity with aeration. Supple, round, a very modest grain of tannin. Mouth-filling and delicious finishing, this is excellent…
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Clos Michaud Monopole
This with barrel elevage in 2020 and a little whole cluster too. The first vintage was 2018 here, it needed a lot of holes filling in the vineyard. This was bottled in July, unfiltered.
More open, no overt reduction here – this is wide and inviting – super. More structural but with great fruit around it. A modest cushioning, and über-fine tannin. Almost a suggestion of coffee/mocha in the finish. Completely delicious – Excellent Bourgogne!
Also Maranges/Paris l’Hopital – ‘a mosaic of terroirs’
More airy perfume. Bright, lovely and with incisive width. This has energy to burn and a fine high-toned flavour with good structure – Bravo – really quite a complete wine for the label, the finish has lots of attractive character too.
Both red and white, Chanzy are big owners in Rully – 16-17 hectares:
2019 Rully En Rosey
Multiple types of elevage, normal barrels and mix of larger formats, foudres and even stainless steel to bring the various elements.
Hmm, that’s a nice fruit – a little vibration of red energy here. Mouth-filling, texturally showing a little more tannin – but with hardly any grain – the fruit insistent in a good way and with lovely clarity. A delicious wine with a small caress of tannin on the tip of the finish…
2019 Rully Clos de Bellecroix
Near Domaine/Mountain de la Folie. Some maps include this in the climat of Folie. ‘The malo was quite late for this wine – we had to wait.’
A little more colour showing here. More depth of aroma, darker but again fresh fruit. Wide, deep, more structural, more tannic but also, like the nose with more depth of flavour – there’s a little oak visible here too – for the first time. Complex, deeply flavoured – worth a little patience, but a super wine in waiting.
2019 Mercurey Le Bois Cassien
High in the commune of Mercurey – have both colours here – a red soil lots of iron and stones. This a mix of still relatively young vines and a much older parcel.
Extra elegance to the aromas – more perfumed. Airy but then growing in weight and intensity – well-structured – hardly any grain to this tannin. The finish is great – beautiful purity of finishing flavour escaping through a modest tannin – love this finish…
Next to Clos du Roi with no obvious délimitation but this noted as villages. Deeper soil here.
A suggestion of reduction with this dark fruit – almost suggesting some chocolate too. Wide, super shape/structure, the tannin is hyper-fine here – no grain – open with clarity of flavour, width of flavour too. A very subtle oak complexity – this is a classy, great, villages – bravo!
2019 Mercurey Les Bussières
Have in white too – but this is actually a clos (on the label) in white.
Deep colour. Here’s a more overt reduction – it needs plenty of air. Wide, less volume, a little more intensity from the acidity – a wine that’s much less in place than the others, it turns out the malo has almost finished! The finish is fine and wide – but not finished today.
2019 Mercurey 1er Clos Voyens
Perfumed red fruit here, and with quite some depth too. Big, energetic, the structure a little forward today – but give that 18-months to 2 years – I really enjoying this finish, wide, sustaining, a long finesse of diminuendo. Excellent wine.
2019 Mercurey 1er Clos du Roy
Often the first parcel harvested each year.
Not the darkest colour in this range. The parcel nearest the village with two different exposures – flat and hillside. The nose is easy and red. The palate incisive and growing with structure and intensity – a modestly astringent finish with a fine higher-toned finishing fruit. Elegantly complex despite this structure. For keeping a while – but not too long…
Another with a late malo but not affecting the flavours here.
Lots of colour here. Ooh, what a beautiful, faintly floral nose – great! Mouth-filling, there’s energy here too – mouth-watering, almost juicy. A shimmeringly good finish. Bravo Givry…
4 small parcels all with different exposures – high & low.
A faintly lighter colour. A deeper aromatic, faintly chocolate once more. Great texture, velvet with the tiniest grain of tannin. Sustaining a top finish – excellent wine, great Maranges!
2019 Santenay Les Cornières
In Santenay le Haut, almost 50-year-old vines.
Depth of aroma – a little tighter above. There’s a fresher, redder fruit showing here. Open fresh, less ready than most here but with a very nice width of fresh complexity. Holds a little finishing astringence but also with fine flavour.
55-year-old vines in the heart of the hillside – have white here too, this is terraced.
High-toned and beautifully perfumed – yes! Structural but hardly astringent, melting with great flavour – this is great-flavoured wine. Long, vibrant and a treat – bravo!
2019 Vosne-Romanée La Croix Blanche
‘Our ‘confidential’ domaine wine’ – 0.24 ha. This still in barrel.
Airy and, yes, a little spiced elegance here. Some gas here too – perturbing today. The wine has volume and great balance – the finish with great energy and complexity. Should be fine!
Its about equal volume for reds and whites here, but the number of white cuvées is fewer than in red. About half of these have been bottled:
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté Fortunes
Two parcels in Bouzeron, but not everyone who wants aligoté knows that Bouzeron is. This with stainless steel elevage
Hmm – a floral freshness here – even a subtle minerality very inviting. Round but not rich, subtly energetic, certainly slowly mouth-watering with a saline style of complexity. Delicious.
Les Clous, la Tournelle and Les Cordères, with some 450 l barrel elevage.
Wide a little more direct and structural nose – growing in mineral aroma. Bigger, fuller-flavoured, in the mouth. Good energy again. That’s not a big finish but it’s a beautiful finish – simply gorgeous – excellent wine, great Bouzeron.
2019 Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune
There’s one other cuvée – 20 years – but it’s not yet ready to taste.
That has a less forward but more beautifully fruited nose – the minerality of the last is hidden. A bigger wine – but more overtly mineral too. Mouth-watering, faintly tannic, a wine to wait for but here’s a great extra burst of finishing flavour.
Part of this from the bottom of the Clos de Fortune
There’s a little saline minerality to this nose. Just a hint of textural richness but the wine is open and quite mineral – a very nice depth of fruit which is emphasised and deliciously lasting in the finish. Excellent wine, practically great Bourgogne
2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc
Again in the area of Paris l’Hopital – a mix of older and younger vine – the older vines machine harvested, the younger by hand.
Airy freshness for this nose – not particularly distinguished. In the mouth there’s volume and quite a complexity – – much more interesting than the nose. Holding tenaciously in the finish – a good finish.
2019 Mercurey Le Bois Cassien
Top of the hill here.
This nose is a little more expressive, with higher-toned fruit and nice clarity. Round, tannic, layered, mobile flavour – certainly some minerality in the mix too – a wine that will be even better if it opens some more, but it’s already super if, perhaps, a little warm finishing.
2019 Mercurey Clos Caraby
Not yet bottled – from the bottom of the Clos where the soil is a little richer with clay.
More fermentary aroma – not yet ready. But the shape and energy is super – a wine to wait for.
In white a monopole of the domaine, the red that they have doesn’t have the necessary 3 walls for ‘Clos’.
Much more ready and open- it’s a fine nose of energetic and ripe citrus with almost a ginger-spice component. Round, easy in the mouth, but again with that ginger spice – this could confuse many people as a Meursault… Great wine, but a non-standard Mercurey(?)
2019 Rully En Rosey Blanc
Bottled – a mix of elevage types.
A slightly metallic depth of aroma but the higher-toned fruit above is very nice. This is quite a mineral style of wine, but all the time insistently, mouth-wateringly offering new flavours. More composed than the last and frankly a great if contemplative finish…
2019 Rully Les Cailloux
Not a large volume of aroma but here is a fine clarity of mineral-infused higher-toned citrus elements. A little retained gas – the energy partly due to that. Modestly touched with tannin and an intensity of finishing flavour. Not a big finish, but a long finish. Some potential here but a wine to wait for the start and finish both need to grow…
2019 Mercurey 1er Clos du Roy Blanc
The same soil as the reds from here
This nose is sweetly round, suggesting some barrel spice too. Gas. Yes, some barrel here but also with fine transparency – mineral, fruit, texture and intensity. I’m sure much more harmonious when the gas is adjusted. The oak will need a little more time to fade – I’d say wait 2-3 years as a starting point. The finish already an impressive one, even with the oak!
2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux
A rich soil, vines practically behind the cuverie of Carillon.
That’s quite an effusive nose with a very fine citrus note. A little gas, a lot of energy, mobile, complex and mouth-watering. A delicious wine – a quality Puligny.
The vines here are terraced. This still in barrel.
That’s a great nose – wide, mineral, energetic – a great invitation. Impact, lots of minerality some tannin, mouth-watering – broad flavoured but never heavy. Never a shy wine, but really well put together and the finish is beautifully fine and long – bravo! Better than the very good Puligny but also cheaper!