Tasted in Meursault with Vincent Boyer, 08 June 2022.
Domaine Boyer-Martenot
17, place de l’Europe
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 26 25
www.boyer-martenot.com
More reports with Domaine Boyer-Martenot
Vincent on 2021:
“80% losses. I don’t know what we will put in the shops.”
Vincent on 2020:
“I’m just back from visiting clients in the US, so nothing is currently bottled – that’s my project for the next 6 weeks. The 2020 volumes were okay though. It was an early harvest, starting 22nd and finishing 29th of August. In 2003 we finished a day or two later but only because we weren’t ready to harvest!”
The wines…
This is a super cellar in 2020 – if you can find the wines!
Bottling is all natural cork. Vincent changed suppliers about 2017 after one cuvée suffered about 5% corked bottles – fortunately, it was only one cuvée. He currently has no interest in technical closures; all of today’s corks are individually tested for TCA and are of 25mm width vs the standard 24mm:
From a concrete ‘egg’ – Old vines, not a low yield though, barrel for 1 year then the egg for another… Made like that here since the 2017 vintage. ‘I don’t want to lose all the richness but I want the extra tension.’
Wide, fresh, really an invitation. Great shape in the mouth – a wine of citrus cut and fine energy. That’s a great mineral finish too – a little strict but I love this – bravo!
2020 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay
2019 is the first vintage with a Côte d’Or label.
A little mineral reduction but incisive and attractive. Direct, chiselled, mineral wine – just a mm of cushion. Strict again – you should probably keep it for a year or two but I love it – simply excellent wine that’s quite saline finishing too.
Ooh a more golden fruit, vibrantly energetic, becoming more airy in the glass. Extra depth, extra concentration, redictive but not excessive, intense finishing with real depth of flavour. Simply exvellent wine practically a great villages.
2020 Meursault Chaumes (de Perrieres)
More yellow citrus and flowers. High on the hill here. More tension, even more mineral. Wide and vibrant in the finish – extra fresh complexity here. Always the slight strict style but still top!
Hmm a great nose, even with a little underlying reduction – yes! A little more gas, but mouth-filling, mobile, deliciously energetic fruit. Wide open, long-lasting – simply excellent again – maybe great!
Finer, less impact but is beautifully airy. Direct, silky, and always with energy. Finishing vibrantly again – a touch of salinity – extra weight to this, extra length too. Bravo!
2020 Puligny-Montrachet
Les Reuchaux near Charmes
Extra floral and wide – quite a perfumed wine. Mouthfilling, structural with strongly saline energy to these flavours too. Only modestly reductive. Another very fine cuvée.
2020 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
Three parcels, one near Genevrières, one in the middle near Puligny and a last next to Limozin
Airy like the Puligny but more together and with extra clarity. Still a wine of structure and lean muscle. Wide, sensual and attention-holding in the finish – a great finish!
The first from foudre
Extra depth, another beautiful nose. Vibrant width, energy, depth, structure – great wine with such an engrossing finish too – bravo without a doubt…
2020 Meursault 1er Perrières
Above the quarry towards Puligny – lots of active limestone here. Again from an egg.
A more mineral width of aroma – you can feel the (aromatic) structure – perhaps better said, the tension. More direct, extra silky, a growing intensity, the flavour nobly, modestly, reductive – like all in these concrete eggs – but attractively so – still I’d happily resort to a carafe when they are young. A little extra floral complexity in the finishing notes too… Lovely…
2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
On the Meursault side of the vineyard, across from the large tree. Vincent’s grandmother bought this in the 1980s, 1987 the first vintage.
A higher-toned floral element to this nose. There’s a little more ease to these flavours but still beautifully shaped. A little extra burst in these finishing flavours vs the Perrières, less overtly structural and direct – equally good – non-identical twins, this and the Perrières.
Les Reds:
2020 Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Near Sous la Velle, towards Puligny
A broad freshness of aroma – dark berries – darker due to a small reduction. Mouthfilling has lots of freshness, fine texture too. A wine of intensity and good texture – nothing overdone – just well done!
Extra width and a slightly more granular complexity of aroma. Wider, more depth, a wine with extra – a slight extra generosity here, again with fine texture. Super finishing, lots of flavour dimension, here with just an extra complexity of bitters – bravo – Vincent can make great reds too!
2020 Pommard
From En Villages, on the Volnay side, below Rugiens
More direct but with a small aromatic cushion – like most of the wines here, with a small reductive accent. Mouth-filling, a little saline and growing a large wave of mouthwatering flavour. Here is a super finishing energy for a villages – thats another excellent wine.