Tasted with David Duband in Chevannes 30 June 2022.
SARL David Duband
12 Rue du Lavoir
21220 Chevannes
Tel: +33 3 80 61 41 16
www.domaine-duband.com
More reports with David Duband
David is converting his whole domaine to having a couvert vegetale – ie something planted between all the rows of his vines. “You only need to look at the recent heavy rains – those with planted rows don’t have all their soil at the bottom of the hill! I’m also looking at planting more trees around the domaine, too.”
David on 2020:
“It’s a lovely vintage but with 30% lower volume than the two previous vintages – mainly the dryness and some coulure are to blame. I started harvesting 25 August, bringing in wines with potential alcohols of 12.8-13.5%, so I was happy with that. I still used a reasonable amount of whole clusters for the wines. Of course, like everyone, the supply of wine from here is tight – most is already sold or allocated. 2019 was a little easier than 2020 in the vines and cuverie – but both much easier than 2021 of course!”
The wines…
I feel ashamed that I so often overlook the wines from David – memo to self – these are beautiful wines, in a style that I love – and many are worth a special search!
DIAM seals for all, and all these were tasted from half-bottles:
That’s a broad and welcoming nose, complex and attractive with a modest wc perfume. Hmm, that’s really very impressive, a wine that melts over the palate but with really refined and elegant structure – but structure all the same – beautifully perfumed. That’s a great Bourgogne!
2020 Morey St.Denis
Here is an extra creamy depth to the aromas, the herbacity of the WC slightly more present but there’s also an extra vibrancy that comes with that. Mouth-filling, structural but with a relaxed and slightly melting impression to the flavours – the creaminess of the nose is also present in the middle and finishing flavours – a subtle nod to the barrels but this is already an excellent and delicious thing!
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin
90% from between Brochon and Gevrey – 5-6 parcels.
A deeper width of aroma – no cream this time, more a stony cherry fruit. Extra impact and fresh width – a super-fine grain of ripe tannin that adds a little velevet to this texture. The most intense finishing – proper Gevrey and whilst I would happily drink this today – best to wait 3-10 years.
2020 Nuits St.Georges
Parcels in Charmottes & St.Julien in the north of Nuits, Plateau and Brulées more to the south.
Just a little extra wc herbacity that recalls the Morey – but here is a super complexity of aroma. More supple than the Gevrey, layered, almost a mm, or two, of cushioning – certainly an extra depth of concentration. A really lovely wine with a layered delivery of fine flavour – yes!
2020 Morey St.Denis 1er Clos Sorbet
Redder, softer fruit, spiced from the wc but not to the herbal side of things. Very elegant, rounded shape – still with a little tannic velour to the texture. Very red fruited and, if I may, very Sorbé – that’s lovely wine again.
2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Thorey
From nearly 70 year-old vines on the Vosne-side of the town.
Hmm, now that’s complex; a little more aromatically structured and with a hint of almond in this aromatic complexity too. There is a little more depth to this tannic structure but hardly any grain and we have another wine that likes to melt over the palate – bringing a little barrel creaminess like the first Morey. Goregous finishing, through the structure, but the structure is nothing that would dissuade me from drinking this today – simply excellent wine!
2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Pruliers
Airier, complex, almost a little gentian pyrazine but this remains a great invitation. Here is more middle-density to the flavours but layered and never heavy – evolving with quite some extra flavour-perfume – that is really delicious in a slightly more, agreeably contemplative, style…
2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Sentiers
From 50+ year-old vines sitting just under Bonnes Mares.
A little tighter yet there’s an airy style to this nose. More architecturally structured than the Pruliers – but open in the style of a Clos de Vougeot (with less power) but beautifully mouth-watering flavours. Only in the finish are we more overtly in Chambolle territory – that’s beautifully complex and open – another excellent wine that I’d wait 5 or 6 years before drinking – as a starting point.
2020 Echézeaux
From nearly 80-year-old vines as Rouges du Bas
Also not the most open but here is clearly different territory – complex, mobile, darker fruit and – yes – a little spiced too. Hmm – beautiful silky texture, concentration but delivered with elegant ease, and really an extra depth to this finishing flavour – excellent wine and with the potential for more than that!
From 70-year-old vines in the centre of the appellation.
Ooh! Now that’s really the most open and directly inviting nose – a stony fruit and freshness but with super depth too. Deep, concentrated, great dimension of flavour – stony, slightly creamy fruit – like the nose. This wine has the extra, long, complex, slightly more structural/mineral in the finish! Bravo!
2020 Latricières-Chambertin
Yes of course this is great; red fruited but hardly so simple as that – wide, a certain supporting herb – bouquet garni – yes! More forward roundness and mouth-filling concentration – more Gevrey grand cru than is often the case. Slowly fading, long finishing flavours of fine distinction – certainly excellent wine, only the structure is a little more evident than the Clos de la Roche…
Also domaine, indeed this, the Latricières, Charmes, Clos de la Roche and Echezeaux all come from the former Louis Remy estate. Here 0.22 hectares of 50+-year-old vines next to those of Leroy.
Yes! Extra perfume – that’s a beautiful invitation. A hint less fat and more direction vs the Latricières – there’s a little oak complexity at the base of this wine but it’s hardly needed as this wine has everything. Fine shape, a little minerality showing through in the finish too – this could be great – it’s certainly more than excellent already today and showing it’s structure less than Latricières!
And for the road:
Wide, airy, really more forward than the 2020. A little barrel espresso rather than the cream of the 2020 – but this it just such a delicious thing – and perfectly proportioned – despite the coffee (or maybe because of the coffee!) – bravo and so long too!
This is a beauty – not forceful but pure and showing flashes of fine interest – it captivates. Fluid, open, beautifully mouth-filling. Structural in the best sense – it brings order. Bravo
2019 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Thorey
Open, interesting, indeed inviting just missing those extra flashes of aromatic interest. Cool fruit, a little more direct, fluid in flavour delivery, again.
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Sentiers
Airy, wide, complex – inviting. In the mouth this reflects the 2020 in its quite structured style – I like this continuity – here a little more direct but also more overtly perfumed. Not a wine of power but what great complexity!
There is one response to “David Duband – 2020”
Bill, did any of the wines tasted e.g the MSD 1er Clos Sorbet include those DD makes for Francois Feuillet ?
Hi Mark
No, they were the pukka DD labels. I have the feeling that JFJ is possibly retired now – certainly Louis Max has had a name/branding change. More info on these subjects from David when I visit to tase 2021s in a couple of weeks.
Cheers