Tasted in Meursault with Anne Morey, 07 June 2022.
Domaine Anne et Pierre Morey
13 Rue Pierre Mouchoux
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 03
www.morey-meursault.fr
More reports with Anne et Pierre Morey, Morey-Blanc.
Anne’s son is here at the domaine now – 2021 was his first full vintage at the family domaine.
Anne Morey on 2020:
“We had a lot of luck I think – though we started with practically no winter, no snow, no frost etcetera – so everything started very early. We lit candles on three nights, I’m not sure we made any difference but we chose not to take the chance in Bâtard. Spring showed the difference – the vine growth exploded. I remember no real pressure from anything. Harvesting was 24-31 August – the first time our harvesting was all done in August. We had very little to triage, we had lovely grapes and a great young team. I see a lot of finesse despite quite high degrees. But the acidities are super up to 7 grams per litre for the tartaric. The aromas are splendid. The reds were hint lower volume than in 2019 but the whites were not bad. I’m super happy with the vintage – it’s lovely – one of the category that can be thought of as ‘top’ – there’s super balance and good volume too. Maybe the reds could be a little less alcoholic but the wines are lovely in both colours. I took a different approach for the reds as you could see the colour and structure right from the start – I didn’t want to make solid wine – it was really an infusion, just 1-3 pigeages and nothing more. Nothing done was well done! This meant a little reduction in the early phases of the elevage. But I’m happy. Obviously still a concentrated and powerful vintage – not particularly a sunny vintage in the glass though.”
The wines…
A splendid result for 2020. The whites tasting was aromatically handicapped by some older samples (Coravin) but the great wines that laid behind that were still easy to discern – wines with great finishes. The reds were a little alcoholic but had super acid-led energy, making them still quite delicious.
2020 Bourgogne Rouge
A round and generous nose of darker red fruit. Supple, broad. Great texture, generous and involving. Floral finishing, modestly mineral – the finish bring a mineral energy. Lovely.
Clearly a more perfumed fruit – still darker – like the colour of the wine – but a fine invitation. Silken, mobile, accessible. Beautiful shape. Great villages – bravo! The only red under 15° here – still 14.5° but grand…
2020 Meursault Durots, Rouge
Below Santenots, deeper soil, flatter land. There are some chardonnay vines co-planted here
A deeper nose, cherries steeping in alcohol – yet not to excess. More direct, more structural, lovely mouth-watering style – a little excess dark ripeness – but fleeting – it’s not always there. Fresher, more herbed finishing – very big wine, long finishing…
2020 Morey-Blanc, Volnay 1er Les Pitures
Bought in grapes, second vintage. On the hill. This the third vintage for this
Wider, a textured width, some stony fruit. Mouth-filling but still wide flavours with a fine fresh mineral energy here – cooling the flavour. Grainless tannin in support. A much more complete wine than the Meursault. That’s Very good!
2020 Pommard 1er Epenots
A smaller core of macerating fruit – alcoholic. A smaller entry but the flavours open wide – this for me, despite the 16° of the last wine, the most obviously alcoholic of these reds. Yet, there is a calm, a serenity to the wine. Two faces today but the finish is lovely…
The whites:
2020 Bourgogne Aligoté
A slightly savoury sweetness to these aromas. Mouthfilling, lovely mouthwatering style – a serious mineral wine and growing with intensity in the finish. Very fine and intense in the finish – brilliantly long – for keeping!
2020 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay
A calmer, friendlier nose. Wide, some layers to this flavour – some generosity too. I like this texture, easy, comfortable, tasty wine – but another white with a finish that holds and talks – the best part…
2020 Morey-Blanc St.Romain Sous le Château
There’s some aromatic oak here but also extra dimensions of attractive fruit. Vibrant, mouth-filling – super width – you could almost say lean – but lean muscle – direct and silken. Super wine. Just have a little patience with it – 2 years or so… Really great finishing again – this aspect is standing out in this range of wines…
2020 Meursault
3 climates as usual, all harvested and pressed separately; Pellans, Chaumes de Narvaux and Forges near Auxey.
Needs a little air. Freshness and purity for sure. I really like the shape of this in the mouth. Mouth-watering and fine textured. Again a wine that bursts forward with finishing intensity and impressive length.
2020 Meursault Clos Le Meix Tavaux
Second vintage for this domaine wine – near Forges.
Again a nose that has a bit of development, like the last (Coravin here). Cool in the mouth, I like the shape of this – a wiry muscular frame but never hard. Super waves of finishing flavour – super again!
Another wine that has been Coravined a little long – but Anne can’t smell it – ‘I’ve got about 25% of my sense of smell back since covid and I feel I can find the wines very well but I don’t see notes of oxidation yet.’
The nose broadens and becomes fuller with air. Ooh – great shape – direct, mineral a Meursault of mineral tension. That’s beautiful in the mouth with a rolling, long finish. A fresh bottle is certainly a bravo wine!
2020 Meursault 1er Perrières
A different nose, generous, almost cushioned a touch of coffee/noble reduction. Also an open, mineral attack like the last – here with the smoky coffee style of the nose – the barrel. Another super wine. Equally long but less directly forward in the finish…
Broader aromatics, still a little past its Coravined best but with finer clarity of fruit and with super precision. Extra in shape, fine mineral strength too. This is a structured wine but with an extra reserve of flavour even after the MP, That will be a great wine in 2030+…