Tasted with Fred’s father, André, in Gevery-Chambertin, 24 June 2022.
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin
Les Estournelles
12 Rue du Chêne
21220, Gevrey Chambertin
Tel. +33 9 79 66 20 27
More reports with Domaine Frédéric Esmonin
Here’s a domaine that bottles relatively early – but the 2021s were a little later in their elevage than most other vintages here!
André & Fred on 2022:
“Gevrey just got 150mm of rain in one day. Fortunately, there was no damage to the cellar but the syndicate of Gevrey are looking at about 15% losses for 2022 with the small amount of hail that came too. There were plenty of grapes before though. So maybe the final yields won’t be too bad… ”
André & Fred on 2021:
30% of our malos are late, so we probably won’t be bottling before the end of the year.
The wines
A range that impressed despite late malos and plenty of reduction in most barrels. I’ve kept the notes short in such a case but I expect that the wines, based on past history, will outperform what I have written.
All tasted direct from barrel:
2021 Côte de Nuits Villages
Some fresh, spicy oak. Balanced shape, good energy and a good length of flavour.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
In 2020 this was a blend of 6 parcels. In 2021 only 3 parcels were available – about half a hectare worth.
More open, more floral perfumed. Fresh, intense – all fine red fruit and mineral finishing. Potentially lovely wine in the making.
From the ‘Villages’ rated section of the vineyard, rather than the premier cru part. This wine eloquently underlines that villages/1er cru hierarchies are relative in each village, rather than a constant benchmark across villages. This wine easily betters any of the proposed Marsannay 1ers, for instance…
Pure, wide fresh – thats a beauty. Some gas but lovely structure – thats really great – I love the dynamic pure energy here – bravo!
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Les Jousie
From the grapes of 68-year-old vines.
Thats also very pretty, couched with a faint but attractive oak. Plenty of gas but freshness and energy are the major pointers here – another with vibrant finishing flavour.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Champonets
Starting a little reductive – as many years – but opening with air – fine red fruit… vibrant, more cushioning too. Lovely finishing wine.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Another wine that opens more and more from a slightly redictive start. A little more fleshy and layered, still holding onto its fine energy.
2021 Nuits St.Georges
From Haute Pruliers
Here the aromatic oak is showing more. Plenty of gas, but with fine, chewy, structural flavour. Clearly it should be kept a little longer.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Estournelles St.Jacques
The nose is very reductive today but the palate shows a fine combination of freshness, generosity and energy.
2021 Ruchottes-Chambertin
From below the Clos de Ruchottes of Rousseau and near the Mazis of Faiveley.
Fine open red fruit, reductive but much less than many here. Broad, growing in intensity. Complex, there’s salinity, and flavours that strongly, impressively, finish – and it’s a great finish! With more time to settle this could also be a great wine!
2021 Mazis-Chambertin – Hospices de Beaune
Hmm, this wine is more perfumed; I don’t note the Hospice’s barrel. Big, with super texture, this is very impressive wine.