Online today!
My summary of the 2021 Beaujolais vintage – a complex one with multiple personalities – great wines to downright ugly ones!
85 domaines – with lots of new names too.
Their vintage experiences and their wines described – as always the great wines – at any level – properly highlighted for interested buyers. Enjoy.
Here.
At least now you know why it’s been quiet here in the last few days – furious typing 😉
From my local, Swiss merchant. In the brackets, you will find the prices of the 2020s & 2019s from the previous two years and — indicates ‘not offered.’
Domaine Marc Morey 2021:
Saint-Aubin Charmois 1er Cru 2021 75cl 52.00 (49.00, 48.00)* (Swiss Francs)
Chassagne-Montrachet 2021 75cl 64.00 (59.00, 59.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2021 75cl 79.00 (78.00, 72.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru 2021 75cl 79.00 (78.00, 74.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2021 37.5cl — (46.00, 47.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2021 75cl 94.00 (88.00, 88.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2021 150cl — (181.00, —)
Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru 2021 75cl 99.00 (94.00, 92.00)
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2021 75cl 158.00 (139.00, —)
*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…
Friday is the weekend – right?
2010 François Mikulski, Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
Wow – the 2010s just keep giving! Apart from the occasional over-oaked wine they are just so consistently good.
There are few high or floral tones here but that’s compensated by aromas that are round, deep and attractive – ripe red fruit but from a different context versus 18, 19, 20 – and the like. There’s volume but still fluidity to this wine – which reminds me of the 2019s – but like the nose, it’s a different style of ripeness here – though still with fine textural depth plus such an impressive depth of flavour. The finishing bitters have all but left the stage. This is such a beautiful wine. I’m ashamed not to be finishing the bottle tonight – but my doctor will (probably!) commend me for drinking only 2/3rds of the bottle! Simply beautiful tonight.
Rebuy – Yes
If it’s the only wine I drink this weekend – I would be more than happy!
One of my favourite white wine domaines of the last couple of years – but a harder one to pin down as they no-longer show their wines before bottling and also commercialise the wines with some delay – hence, here we have a mix of 2018s plus an occasional 2017.
The prices are in Swiss francs* including the Swiss 7.7% purchase tax – delivery is extra:
Offer РDomaine de la Comtesse de Ch̩risey
2018 Meursault La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru 75cl 122.00*
2018 Meursault La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru 150cl 254.00
2017 Meursault La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru 150cl 223.00
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalumeaux 1er Cru 75cl 122.00
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru 75cl 122.00
2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru 150cl 254.00
2017 Blagny La Genelotte Monopole 1er Cru (Rouge) 150cl 223.00
100-150 Swiss Francs (it’s about the same in Euro) does seem to be about the going rate for very good white 1ers from Chassagne to Meursault. I’m old enough(!) to remember when they were under €40 and were drunk with much more regularity. The red is very expensive for a Blagny – even a 1er cru – but given such low yields in this vintage, it clearly remains more of a cost-centre than a profit-centre!
2021 Domaine Chevallier, Chablis
There’s no markings – other than domaine markings – but this looks like a Nomacorc – hopefully the second generation…
Here’s a super and quite broad freshness of citrus and salinity – starting riper but opening more and more ith air – what more could I ask? Like the nose a wine of width and a small cushion that adds generosity. The finishing flavours, like the nose, with an accent of salinity and just the faintest lick of phenolics – a little tannin. No pretensions, just a very good villages Chasblis.
Rebuy – Yes
2005 des Croix, Bourgogne
David Croix’s firts vintage with his new domaine. This Bourgogne massively outperformed even this great vintage – helped not just by his winemaking but also by the fact that it contained plenty of villages Beaune and Savigny. It went through a phase where it was a little too fruity – almost cordial in style – but it seems that was a phase. Now it’s all working out fine…
Still deeply coloured. The nose still has plenty of creamy oak framing the fruit – but now it’s starting to show the first suggestion of a little maturity. Supple with a texture of velour – just a tiny, tiny grain of completely ripe tannin supports the flavours. Not a high-strung or structured wine but rather one that is round, ripe and very well shaped – a wine of generosity – shape and flavour – yet never fat or heavy. The label indicates 12.5% alcohol – I might have guessed more – but it drinks very well – a little too well, the bottle is emptying fast! Approaching 20 years old this wine is just about ready!
Rebuy – Yes
2017 Agnès & Jean Foillard, Morgon Côte du Py
A strong cork – unlike the one of the de Croix which fell into multiple pieces.
This is dark-red fruit territory with the classical, seemingly lactic background Foillard flavours – but open, clean and very attractive. The des Croix is fuller and very delicious whilst this has a bit more fresh energy – and is also very delicious! The texture is of velour – very modest and ripe tannin supports the flavour – but from the middle to finishing flavours this has a little more open style and energy – withe extra – but attractive – finishing bitters – no surprise on the bitters as this is a baby vs the de Croix. This is very attractive wine right now…
Rebuy – Yes
Or, at least in part 2021 – there are only 2 wines offered – and whilst the price of the Musigny may have softened, the villages has always been an expensive thing – I last bought the 2012 and that was €100 a bottle. These wines were offered by my usual Swiss merchant.
The first price is for 2021, the subsequent prices in brackets are of the formula (2019, 2018, 2017) and — means ‘not offered.’ I’ve not seen any prices for 2020.
DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ 2021
2021 Chambolle-Musigny 75cl 225.00 (—, —, 149.00) *Swiss francs
2021 Bonnes-Mares 75cl — (625.00, —, 489.00
2021 Bonnes-Mares 150cl — (—, —, 998.00)
2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes 75cl 898.00 (998.00, 898.00, 699.00)
2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes 150cl — (—, —, 1,418.00)
*7.7% Swiss purchase tax to be added, but these are delivered prices.
Interesting!
In Switzerland, at least, and two months after they were offered, I see that none of these have sold out. And we can assume that some were offered in very small quantities…
It’s actually a great vintage chez Arlot – but are these the first winds – breezes – of market change?
I have a ton of merchant offers for the 2021 vintage for you – I’ll trickle them out a couple ata a time over the next week – but first a little ‘colour’ from Chablis this week.
Less sun than in Beaujolais but but always with a warmer (than the weather!) welcome 😉
As I beaver-away typing reports – currently in Chablis – I must remember to give you a window into my days of visits – here from Beaujolais last week. I will finally return to the Côte d’Or at the end of this month!
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