Entries from 2019

week 19, 2019 – the weekend wines…

By billn on May 13, 2019 #asides

weekend wines

A weekend in Beaune – just a few things that fell to hand 😉

2017 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Bourgogne Côte d’Or Pinot Noir
It’s far from a deep colour – though too dark for a rosé – but it’s a vibrant colour. The nose is like cordial but fresh and inviting – quite some volume of aroma for so modest a colour. Likewise in the mouth the flavour is forward, almost a crunch to the jammy fruit experience – but fresh and moreish. Gotta say, delicious if a little non-standard in style. Definitely yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Murgers Des Dents du Chien
I’ve never yet experienced an oxidised or even an advanced wine from this producer, but here is certainly some obvious age.
The colour is rather deep, and whilst there is some modest aromatic development, it’s more a nose that’s (over!) full with caramel-vanilla oak – a very sweet nose – not my favourite. Fortunately in the mouth there’s a lovely drive to this wine – very fine acidity – the wine is fresh, wide and mineral in the middle – fine – but the finish reflects the nose with a sweet caramel finish that I don’t like. It’s showing well though.
Rebuy – No

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Malconsorts
Plenty of depth to the colour – much more than the 2017 – but clearly there’s some age going on here. The first nose (from opening) shows a little brett, but with aeration it’s clearly volatile as it fades. The palate doesn’t show it in any overt manner; nice volume in the mouth, layers of fresh, complex, and energetic flavour – ooh that’s super. The mid-palate has excellent depth of flavour and there’s real depth and length to the finishing flavour too. Ooh this is so good – given time the nose is relatively appealing – the flavour is, however, non-stop super!
Rebuy – Maybe

mainly puligny…

By billn on May 11, 2019 #asides

Lunch in the Auberge du Vieux Vignernon, in Corpeau, followed by a ‘Potter around Puligny’ – we managed to avoid the rain too – a result! It seemed that team off-road were parked around the Place des Marronniers.
 

mainly beaujolais so-far this week

By billn on May 09, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

And a lot of rain too – yesterday it started wet, but was dry at lunchtime so I decided to run up the Côte de Py and back around to Villié-Morgon – my timing was good – by 14h40 it was raining cats and dogs – but it was vingnerons rather than the clouds that gathered – I was lucky to escape with my life!

Today it was like April – showers and sun – actually the temperature too – nobody thinks there will be an August harvest now – more like 10 Sept in Beaujolais – let’s see!
 

hallellulia – burgundy report version 6…

By billn on May 08, 2019 #asides

To those on my old, almost forgotten, mailing list, plus subscribers new and old, I’ll send out a mailshot this week – my roughly annual mailshot!

For those of you happy enough to browse just here, then here’s the news: On Friday, after 13 years of server stability and slowly growing this site, 100% self-developed (okay, 90%!) since 2002, I finally bit the bullet and got professionals to fix all my bad plumbing!

Midday on Friday (that’s European time for those further afield – plus Brexiters) this site will move to a new service provider and will change a lot. The starting point will be:

  • Wow that’s a lot faster!
  • Wow that’s a lot more stable too – no more intermittent ‘memory errors!’
  • Wow – it now displays properly on tablets and phones – which 50% and growing of you all seem to use now
  • A few subscribers will have noted instability in their subscriptions – always extra work monitoring and fixing for me – I’m led to believe that with this bleeding-edge software, that will be a thing of the past.
  • I’ll describe the design as workmanlike and pragmatic for this first (but expensive) iteration. I’ll see how it beds in and may look at a phase 2 in 6-12 months – but that will just be 80% cosmetic. Let’s see…

Hopefully you will get along okay with everything.
Bill

week 18, 2019 – weekend wines…

By billn on May 07, 2019 #degustation

Including a brace from Mr Croix this weekend…

2007 Camille Giroud, Chapelle-Chambertin
A wine that seems lightly coloured yet with time in the glass I’m sure it darkens. The nose has a lovely width of freshness, with clean white mushroom, clearly plenty of maturity here but it’s pure and attractive. Good volume in the mouth, modest, mid-weight, density – for a grand cru – but there’s a good intensity of flavour which lingers in a high-class way. The depth of flavour is subtle but fine. A wine that’s ready but with no rush to drink. Yum – indeed delicious – yet I think I preferred the recent 07 Cazetiers from here.
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price…

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonnière
I stupidly forgot that I’d left this in the freezer – but on the positive side I didn’t need a corkscrew – only a few hours for the damn thing to unfreeze! Interestingly I had performed my own cold-stabilisation – the wine afterwards full of tiny tartrate crystals!
A little pineapple showing on the nose. Rippling, mineral, fine acidity with, like the nose, that pineapple aspect to the fruit. Wide modestly saline but fine purity in the finish. Super, as always…
Rebuy – Yes

2009 des Croix, Corton Grèves
Only two years younger than the Chapelle, but such a younger colour, and more depth of colour too. Hmm, a more pure-fruited and bright nose – but with depth too. Mouth-filling, penetrating, great intensity and purity – this is such a baby. Wide, fresh, still a little bitters in the finish, but what a persistent finish! Still a bit too young today but with undeniable potential!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Alice & Olivier De Moor, Le Caravan
Clairette (Rhone), chardonnay (Ardeche), chardonnay and sauvignon gris from near Charolais, and pinot blanc and riesling from Alsace, and the aligoté from home.
The overt apple aroma seems to fading on this wine – but the fresh invitation remains. Bright, with lovely line and texture – narrower than the Chablis but a wine you can compare. Delicious, off-piste wine.
Rebuy – Yes

frostwatch, encore…

By billn on May 06, 2019 #vintage 2019

Yes I know it’s May!

The weekend was bizarre at home – jumping (if that’s the right word) from 20°C on Saturday afternoon to snow in the early evening – I really don’t remember the last time I saw snow in May. Saturday afternoon saw me packing insulation around all my hydrangea and agapanthus!

This morning, early underway to Burgundy, I had to contend with a thick frost on the car – as you can see below, it didn’t do pinot and chardonnay (my two vines at home) any favours – this was also, the first frost for a few weeks. The candles were highly active again in Chablis overnight and may be required tonight too. The forecast is for warmer nights from Wednesday.

First reports from the Côte de Beaune are positive, and as usual the Côte de Nuits was fine. Things were okay in the Beaujolais and Mâconnais too – the damage was done there early in April – but they were fighting the cold in Chablis again. I’ll keep you posted, of-course…

On the positive side, today I finished my tastings with a brilliant 1969 – from magnum!
 

offer of the day – 2016 château puligny…

By billn on May 06, 2019 #the market

VINS BLANCS*
Bourgogne Clos du Château 2016 75cl 29.50 (Swiss Francs)
St.Aubin 1er ‘En Remilly’ 2016 75cl 44.10
Chassagne-Montrachet 2016 75cl 57.60
Puligny-Montrachet 2016 75cl 62.10
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières 2016 75cl 103.50
Chevalier-Montrachet 2016 75cl 377.10

*A pre-listing offer from this Swiss merchant, after this ‘introductory offer’ the prices will be higher! I note that this is a late offer of the frost affected 2016 vintage – maybe there are mitigating circumstances for these prices and the 2017s will be cheaper 😉

I laugh at the price in my local supermarket for the latest vintage of Drouhin’s (admittedly excellent) villages Puligny, which has jumped to nearly 60 swiss francs, the 2016 was 52. So, as you can imagine, excellent as these wines are, they certainly stretch pricing credibility at the lower end – for the Chevalier, there is never enough and this will quickly sell out.

Note that these prices include Swiss purchase tax.

the march 2019 burgundy report

By billn on May 03, 2019 #reports#site updates

I really ought to publicise that the March report is online – so here you go!

  • With 8 new names from Chablis – so already bringing to you 70 domaines and their 2017s from that region this year – coverage like no other!
  • Visits to ‘older’ names to catch-up on their 2017s…
  • 100 wines from 2017 tasted blind – from Irancy and Beaujolais Blanc – I’m thinking of your bank balance here. Particularly the Beaujolais was interesting, because I generally find only about 1 in 10 wines that I would open with relish – here you will find 6 great wines – from over 60 tasted!
  • Screw-cap versus cork – comparing the seals back to 2004 with one winemaker – intriguing, if unsurprising results!

Online for subscribers here. Note that for my coverage of the 2017 vintage, that’s already 2,890 wines from 235 producers. This month I’ve even started tasting a few domaines’ 2018s!

NB: This is the last Burgundy Report on my old server before a big site update. ‘Architecturally’ – i.e. behind the scenes – it will be a major step forward in both speed and stability. I’ll probably have to revisit the design in 6-12 months to make it prettier, but function and content rules – eh? Particularly now that a touch more than 50% of you visit only using your tablets and (i)phones!

Enjoy…

Burgundy Report

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