Profile: Fougeray de Beauclair

Pretty for 2-3 years the 2000s became a little sullen for the following two. Many are now blossoming again, particularly at the villages and selected 1er cru level. I found a relative bargain here, 2 4 bottles from the case already consumed; perfect for drinking now and over the next few years. The Clos Marion is a dreamy little vineyard that’s almost invisible from the the road, protected by a stout wall. Unless you need to get in with a tractor, access is through the gated courtyard of a lovely old house – but it’s current owners have nothing to do with the domaine.
2000 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos Marion
Medium ruby-red, just a hint of amber at the rim. For the first hour or so there was very interesting, truffley red fruit with an undercurrent of mushrooms, after an hour, no mushrooms and rather a minty red fruit with a little herb crust – from 4 bottles opened over 10 days, this was the only one with the mushrooms. Over the tongue it has a comforting texture and just enough acidity to balance the warm fruit. The tannin can still be found if you chew. Quite smooth in a non-traditional Fixin way. A good, sweet finish – as mature as is possible whilst still retaining real fruit flavours. I think I could drink a few of these heartwarming bottles during the closing summer weeks.
Rebuy – Yes

2002 Rene Engel, Grands-Echézeaux
Medium ruby-red. The nose has hints of dark, spicy oak and turned earth – as the glass drains there are beautiful flashes of red berries. Perfect freshness and still grainy, though generally background tannins. The flavours make a broad panorama on the tongue and are a mix of red berries and more raisined, lingering notes. Very long. I had the 99 a few months ago, but this seems much better focused and ‘together’ if perhaps not quite as concentrated. A lovely bottle and far from a shame to enjoy now.
Rebuy – Yes

I was potentially setting up a bit of a whinge – the 1986 Mosel was opened first and the colour of the wine was medium lemon-yellow. As the worm of the corkscrew slid into the cork of the Chablis, the last of a tasty half-case, I was already mentally writing this note: ‘7 year-old oxidised Chablis versus baby-faced 22 year-old riesling’. Fortunately like every other bottle from this case – good quality at a decent price.

2001 Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Les Vaillons
Medium golden colour. The nose has some high tones of green-skinned fruit that balances a honied base enough to retain a fresh impression. Width and a little sweet fat – the acidity is fresh though from time to time nearly spiky. The flavours are mineral, a little baked bread and a final salty tang. The finish is quite long and totally savoury.
Rebuy – Yes