Entries from 2009

2003 fourrier gevrey 1er combe aux moines

By billn on September 08, 2009 #degustation

fourrier_moines
This is a very, very good 2003, but it’s not really for me – at least not today. Only a few regionals that I’ve tried have so-far had the level of balancing acidity that I personally need. I’d planned to follow this bottle up with a Griotte or a Clos St.Jacques, but frankly why waste a bottle that may be more interesting in 10 (+++) years? On the whole I remain happy that only about 4% of my cellar come from this vintage.

2003 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines
I double decanted the bottle then left it in the refrigerator for 1 hour as my room temp was about 28°. Medium, medium-plus colour though still cherry-red. The nose still manages to open up with a dark, reductive, slightly toasty oak impression – but it stays in the glass for less than 5 minutes. Slowly it builds a width of creamy, macerating morello cherry aromas, ever-so slowly adding depth with time – very faint herbs overlay the fruit and eventually a little toffee. In the mouth the first word that comes to my mind is unctuous as the sweet fruit wraps around your tongue, though the fruit’s smiling face turns to a frown as the tannin begins to assert itself – it’s like fine sand in texture but far from astringent. The acidity is on a relatively low level so it both dulls the mid-palate (no extra dimension) and adds little to the slightly earthy, salty finish. Unctuous, but I can’t say succulent – there’s just not the freshness for that – I honestly found the second glass a chore. For all that, it’s rather a concentrated and serene wine and about the best 03 I’ve tried recently from the 1er/grand cru levels, I’m also convinced that the pretty fruit will further improve, but I’m not convinced it will ever (for my taste) overcome the shortcoming of the acidity…
Rebuy – Maybe

2009 harvest – tuesday 8th

By billn on September 08, 2009 #vintage 2009

My home team will kick-off today (without me) bringing in the Beaune 1er Les Cras. It looks like we will have a very orderly harvest – no urgent dashes to the vines – also, despite daytime temperatures approaching 30°, the overnight temperatures are nice and cool (though not close to the 3° we had last year) so no worry about the grapes being too hot.

For your wider reading, Alex Gambal is running his blog during the harvest, and short message from Morey St.Denis:

The grapes are looking great. We picked our first little bit this morning (Monday): some Puligny village that we buy for Dujac Fils & Pere. Waiting on the analysis to confirm numbers. It should be around 12°5 and just looked and tasted ripe. I don’t think it will be a year to really wait on the whites, with the possible exception of Monts Luisants (it really holds acidity). Our latest sampling shows very uniform sugars at all appellation levels. All are between 12°3 and 12°5. We’ll begin on Thursday with the ones ripest, using other indicators such as stems, pips, etc.
Jeremy Seysses, Domaine Dujac

More as I have it…

The burgundy 2009 harvest starts today (Monday 7th)

By billn on September 07, 2009 #vintage 2009

forecast_monday_7thOkay maybe Champagne and even a little Chablis has already been cut from the vine, but for the Côte d’Or, the 2009 vendanges start here. Mark à Morey, our correspondent during the 2008 vintage is this year ‘en-place’ in Pernand-Vergelesses – he should, once more, come ‘online’ in a day or two – once we’ve thought of a new name for him!

The weather is set for dry and warm after last week’s cool and wet. It really wouldn’t surprise me if the harvest was drawn out over a two to three week period if the weather remains good. I don’t have the millimeters for the three and a bit days of rain of last week, it was not very heavy but at times rather incessant – which can be the worst kind of rain as heavy downpours mainly wash into the drains – but vignerons I’ve spoken to remain cautiously optimistic (actually not that cautious!) given the fine weather that followed and the forecast of fine weather to come. Here are some selected quotes:

It still looks great. Basically no botrytis, and with the weather of the last days, sugar level remained stable, as berry size increased a little. The good thing was that as the rain came, temperatures decreased, so it hasn’t been a problem really. It might have been more of a problem if the weather would have been warmer , but given the excellent shape of the vines, I’m not even sure of that. So I’m still really excited about the vintage to come – it definitely looks like it’s going to be the best since 05, even if it’s always dangerous to be too positive, as long as the grapes are still hanging out there!
Carel Voorhuis, Domaine d’Ardhuy

I’ll be starting tomorrow (Tuesday) with my two parcels of Volnay 1er Cru (Pitures and Taillepieds), which are already above 13%. The grapes are in wonderful shape, as the soil here was dry enough to absorb most of the water without it getting into the grapes. In fact, I did maturity sampling on 1 September (before the rain) and again yesterday, the 6th (after the rain). There was very little change in the weight of 100 grapes, and some parcels even showed a concentration, with the weight falling. That says most of the water was absorbed by the soil. My sugars yesterday ranged from just under 12% to 13.3% potential alcohol, with no pH above 3.3, and most below. As the weather is forecast to be good over the next couple of weeks, I’m going to harvest over a more extended period of time, with some days off between pickings and processings. That will allow the grapes, which are all in rude health, to complete their phenological maturation, and as a result allow me to do my first whole-bunch red vinifications this year (only a percentage, not 100%). The sugars are rising, the acids are holding fairly steady, and the pHs remain low, so everything is in balance for a spectacular vintage. No rot anywhere in my parcels.
Blair Pethel, Domaine Dublère

California Icon Gary Farrell Debuts New Alysian Label

By William Rusty Gaffney on September 06, 2009 #etrangers#rusty's posts

Alysian_labelGary Farrell could easily be given the title of Father of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.  After making his first wines for Davis Bynum, Farrell launched his own label in 1982. That year, he crafted the first Pinot Noir for the newly launched Rochioli Vineyard and Winery label, and released his first Gary Farrell Pinot Noir consisted of 50 cases of a blend of Rochioli West Block and the North Hill of Allen Vineyard.  It sold for $80 a case.  His Pinot Noirs offered elegance, yet intense and nuanced flavors, reasonably low alcohol levels, and generous acidity, and became among the most popular from California.  By 1999, Farrell had outgrown the Davis Bynum winery where he had been making his wines, partnered with Bill Hambrecht, and built a hilltop winery on Westside Road.

Farrell was to sell his eponymous label and Westside Road winery to Allied Domecq in 2004.  The winery and label were subsequently sold to Beam Wine Estates and then acquired by Ascentia Wine Estates.  Farrell, now 57 years old, had difficulty working under corporate ownership of his winery and was unable to remain connected to all phases of winemaking.  He left the winery in 2006 to return to his roots as a micro-producer of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  His new label, in partnership with Hambrecht once again, Alysian Wines (“ah-liss-ee-uhn”), will be housed in a new winery being built at the Floodgate Vineyard along Trenton-Healdsburg Road in Forestville.

The first three 2007 wines were released in September 2009 including a Russian River Valley and a Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noir.  Releases to follow in early 2010 are vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs from Rochioli Vineyard, Starr Ridge Vineyard East Terrace, and Hallberg Vineyard Crossroads.  Total production in 2007 is 3,000 cases.  The wines will be highly allocated through a mailing list at www.alysianwine.com.

Farrell is media-shy and not much is known about him personally.  Despite that, he has a faithful following, and the Alysian label is sure to attain cult stardom in California.

2007 Alysian Floodgate Vineyard West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., 444 cases, $55.  Very heavy bottle incorporating a large punt and sporting a classy label.  Perfumed with violets, Bing cherries and sandalwood.  Opulent and layered, ephemeral yet gutsy.  Flavors of cherries jubilee with touches of raspberries, vanilla and citrus.  Impeccably balance t n’ a for age ability.  An endless echo of scent and fruit on the finish.  This wine is a heart throb.

“burgundy predicts magnificent 2009”

By billn on September 02, 2009 #vintage 2009

Well that’s the message from the Decanter newsfeed anyway.

Decanter is the best source of wine-related news, but notes like this do them no service. We, (the readers here anyway) already know that things look great, but if Decanter really want to be taken seriously as a news service, rather than repeat, verbatim, industry-body prognostications (marketing communications), they should do some additional investigation of their own – it’s not hard to check the weather forecast is it?

4_castFor the record, the vines seem in at least as good health today, as they did at the same stage of maturity in 2005. But it rained quite a bit yesterday and look at the next days’ weather forecast… Looking on the bright side, the cooler temperatures will, to an extent, mollify the opportunity for rot outbreaks.

remoissenet 2005 mercurey clos fortoul

By billn on September 01, 2009 #degustation

2005 Remoissenet, Mercurey Clos FortoulProfile
2005 Remoissenet, Mercurey Clos Fortoul

2005 Remoissenet, Mercurey Clos Fortoul
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a little mineral, some herbs and slightly cola-esque top-notes, but slowly a very, very pretty and slightly creamy red fruit note comes through. In the mouth there’s decent concentration, good acidity and some ripe, grainy tannin. Not fat but it’s a lithe impression. Faintly lingering. The structure hints to Nuits, but the fruit not. An interesting wine that has the balance for a long, profitable life.
Rebuy – Yes

Offer of the day – William Fevre Chablis 2008

By billn on August 29, 2009 #the market

CHABLIS WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS 2008
CHABLIS Village 75cl 24.00 SFr
PREMIERS CRUS – DOMAINE
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 75cl 39.50 (39.50)
CHABLIS Fourchaume Vignoble Vaulorent 75cl 49.80 (55.00)
GRANDS CRUS – DOMAINE
CHABLIS Valmur 75cl 69.00 (79.00)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 75cl 69.00 (79.00)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 150cl 143.00
CHABLIS Les Clos 75cl 79.00 (89.50)
CHABLIS Les Clos 150cl 163.00

In brackets are the 2007 vintage prices – some limited softening…

Harvest 2009 update

By billn on August 28, 2009 #vintage 2009

Courtesy of Kellen Lignier in Morey St.Denis, pictures from her vineyards, all pictures taken yesterday, commentary is also hers.

Thanks Kellen.

96 thomas-moillard corton clos du roi

By billn on August 28, 2009 #degustation

1996 Thomas-Moillard, Corton Clos du Roi
Medium-plus colour. With any volume of wine in the glass, the aromas tend towards leafy, clean notes over a tighter, darker depth. As the glass drains the aromas first add a little raisined fruit before a very, very pretty red fruit comes centre-stage – really impressive. Slightly forward acidity – the 1996 vernacular – and slightly metallic flavours – the young Corton vernacular. The tannin builds as you roll the wine around your mouth – this is very much a 12-year-old youngster. There’s plenty of mid-palate depth that hints toward earthy flavours, but it remains reasonably primary. There’s almost ‘enjoyment’ here, but wait another 2-3 years before returning!
Rebuy – Yes

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