
This is a very, very good 2003, but it’s not really for me – at least not today. Only a few regionals that I’ve tried have so-far had the level of balancing acidity that I personally need. I’d planned to follow this bottle up with a Griotte or a Clos St.Jacques, but frankly why waste a bottle that may be more interesting in 10 (+++) years? On the whole I remain happy that only about 4% of my cellar come from this vintage.
2003 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines
I double decanted the bottle then left it in the refrigerator for 1 hour as my room temp was about 28°. Medium, medium-plus colour though still cherry-red. The nose still manages to open up with a dark, reductive, slightly toasty oak impression – but it stays in the glass for less than 5 minutes. Slowly it builds a width of creamy, macerating morello cherry aromas, ever-so slowly adding depth with time – very faint herbs overlay the fruit and eventually a little toffee. In the mouth the first word that comes to my mind is unctuous as the sweet fruit wraps around your tongue, though the fruit’s smiling face turns to a frown as the tannin begins to assert itself – it’s like fine sand in texture but far from astringent. The acidity is on a relatively low level so it both dulls the mid-palate (no extra dimension) and adds little to the slightly earthy, salty finish. Unctuous, but I can’t say succulent – there’s just not the freshness for that – I honestly found the second glass a chore. For all that, it’s rather a concentrated and serene wine and about the best 03 I’ve tried recently from the 1er/grand cru levels, I’m also convinced that the pretty fruit will further improve, but I’m not convinced it will ever (for my taste) overcome the shortcoming of the acidity…
Rebuy – Maybe
Okay maybe Champagne and even a little Chablis has already been cut from the vine, but for the Côte d’Or, the 2009 vendanges start here. Mark à Morey, our correspondent during the 2008 vintage is this year ‘en-place’ in Pernand-Vergelesses – he should, once more, come ‘online’ in a day or two – once we’ve thought of a new name for him!
Gary Farrell could easily be given the title of Father of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. After making his first wines for Davis Bynum, Farrell launched his own label in 1982. That year, he crafted the first Pinot Noir for the newly launched Rochioli Vineyard and Winery label, and released his first Gary Farrell Pinot Noir consisted of 50 cases of a blend of Rochioli West Block and the North Hill of Allen Vineyard. It sold for $80 a case. His Pinot Noirs offered elegance, yet intense and nuanced flavors, reasonably low alcohol levels, and generous acidity, and became among the most popular from California. By 1999, Farrell had outgrown the Davis Bynum winery where he had been making his wines, partnered with Bill Hambrecht, and built a hilltop winery on Westside Road.
For the record, the vines seem in at least as good health today, as they did at the same stage of maturity in 2005. But it rained quite a bit yesterday and look at the next days’ weather forecast… Looking on the bright side, the cooler temperatures will, to an extent, mollify the opportunity for rot outbreaks.













