The accumulated wealth of (conventional) wisdom says that this is a dumb thing to do, but given the two remarkably open Faiveley’s in this tasting, I thought I’d give this bottle a try. Note that this is a négoce wine, not domaine.
2005 Joseph Faiveley, Volnay 1er Santenots
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is not exactly effusive, but it has quite some depth of dark dried fruits and a more herbal top note. Very good texture then quickly a grainy tannin builds and the acidity seems just an afterthought – yet perfectly draws you into the finish. The mid-palate flavour and finish are cracking – intense and very long – chocolate and a little strawberry shaded oak tannin is the diminuendo. Not as typically brutal as the Lafon version, nor indeed what you might expect from Faiveley, but a super wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2004 Nicolas Potel, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
A good, medium, medium-plus colour. The nose alas is a mix of cedary green and mushroom, there’s a pretty red fruit trying to peek through but frankly it’s drowned. In the mouth it’s nicely concentrated with good fat and a lovely red fruit base. The acidity is good but slides you into a finish where the green raises its head again. Such a shame.
Rebuy – No

Carillon is a benchmark for village Puligny, so given that I bought some M&M bottles and I finally got some Carillon delivered, this seemed a worthwhile comparison. By a ‘nose’ I gave the aromatic laurels to Carillon, but taking the package as a whole, I just find the M&M more fun right now and at least as concentrated. Based on the number of bottles I already bought, the result went in my favour, but both are easy recommendations!
2006 Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet
Pale yellow. The nose starts with a waft of oak that subsides to brioche over an understated but slightly volatile pear-drops note. Good texture and lovely acidity, the fruit has a similar, slightly lifted pear fruit, but it’s largely buried by the toasty, savoury flavours in the mid-palate and a really good, sweeter length. The fruit is better – the volatility is gone – on day two, but the aromatics are slightly less good.
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet
Just a little deeper yellow. Wide, fruit driven nose – still some brioche but of a lower order than the Carillon, a little toffee too. Similar pear-fruit but just a little fatter texture. Good texture and a more creamy fruit driven experience in the mid-palate. The finish is very good, but it would be easy to miss the reprise it brings to another level. Less structured and today more ‘comely’.
Rebuy – Yes