Just because a wine wears a generic label doesn’t mean that the approach needs to be similarly generic. This wine uses fruit only from the Côte d’Or – so no Maconaise or Chalonaise grapes – also, from its inception the aim was to make a food-friendly wine rather than a fruit-forward wine. The nose is nicely mineral and high-toned. Very 2005 in its richness and good texture, but the flavour profile is more savoury than the sweet, sweet, sweet vernacular of the vintage. The 20% oak used in its elevage can only be seen on the flavour of the finish. In terms of the team’s aim, I think this is a bulls-eye.
2005
2005 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Pommard Pezerolles
This wine announces itself with a wide, mineral nose underpinned by black fruit and those caramel barrel notes – lovely depth, a wine to keep sniffing. On the palate there’s ripe, dense and dark fruit, perhaps a little damson. This is very long finishing. This wowed me with its energy and personality – super.
2005 Vougeraie Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets
2005 Potel Nicolas Meursault Les Genevrières
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet
Was reduced on opening but cleared up quite quickly, that said this has a totally different nose to the other wines with really dense fruit but it’s glossy and focused so in no way ponderous – continues to widen in the glass – very impressive. It’s rich with a mineral edge, but like the Charlemagne the concentration bursts across the palate then the acidity ploughs into the finish – grows well in the glass. Rich with a mineral edge and like the Charlemagne the concentration bursts across the palate before the acidity ploughs you into the finish. Very lovely – stylisticly I prefer the Charlemagne but this has a real wow factor despite Christophe saying it’s closed up a little since bottling!
2005 Drouhin Joseph Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay
Medium yellow. The nose is sweet and high-toned with green-skinned fruit and pear. Wow – this has very good texture for the appellation and super acidity to match. The flavours are a little ’stoney’ and mineral. There is good mid-palate intensity and a reasonable finish too. This subtly oaked wine – it’s about texture rather than flavour – this is very impressive for its label and just a little Chablis in style. Bravo.
2005 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Rouge
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Nuits St.Georges Les Cailles
From just over 1 hectare of owned vines that give Bouchard P&F close to one third of the appellation. High-toned fruit over a sweet base of blue and black-skinned fruits. Apparently Les Cailles is often colder than the surrounding vineyards so can be a harder wine. Soft, with quite sophisticated though abundant tannins. A nice kick in the mid-palate moves you into a lovely clean finish.