This was a very dry vineyard in 2005 which resulted in only 2.5 barrels of wine instead of closer to 7 – so no new oak. Because there was little juice in those harvested grapes Grégory had to use a very light pressure on his press. The nose is compact but quite deep. In the mouth it’s much more linear than the last wines but there’s richness to the texture and a tight core of fruit at its centre. This is very, very long. Bottled unfiltered with a slight fining. Another excellent wine.
2005
2005 Boisset Jean-Claude Chambertin
This wine has only been in bottle for about one week so should get better and better in the bottle. These grapes from these 70 year-old vines (that border the vines of Domaine Leroy) were harvested a full three weeks after the bans de vendanges, yet only come into the cuverie at 13.5°. The screw-cap version is oversold, so this is tasted from the cork sealed bottle. The nose develops a really creamy base though I didn’t stay with it long enough to see much more than a little extra width. Understated excellence on the palate, the multiple flavours just cling and cling to the inside of your mouth leaving a soft coating over your teeth. Will be fantastic.
2005 Long-Depaquit Chablis Les Blanchots
2005 Boisset Jean-Claude Chambolle-Musigny
This is a blend of 3 different vineyards all located at the top of the village, Grégory says that you really need to wait much longer to harvest here and that the results are much more interesting than from the vineyards below the village. After the Serpentières this is a narrow, focused nose over a brooding and denser creamy base. It’s a wide vista on the palate with velvet tannins and a very good length. This is a very understated and uncomplicated wine and highly recommended.
2005 Boisset Jean-Claude Meursault Les Limozin
2005 Mischief and Mayhem Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts
The understated nose majors on caramel/toffee notes at the start and actually takes close to one hour before it starts to release redder elements and provide a more ‘whole’ and interesting aromatic profile. On the palate this wine has been a little upset by the recent bottling – it starts in wild and disparate fashion, exciting but a little clunky. One hour later we have balance and interest – the main interest for me is the character of the wine; it’s wild, complex and a little grainy textured – there is just so much going on. But where is the elegance of other producer’s versions of Petits-Monts? This is more like a ‘down and dirty’ Malconsorts – a very good Malconsorts by the way! Don’t take that as too much of a complaint – I still bought some!
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château
From just under 10 hectares of vines from 4 1er crus. I mentioned to Christophe Bouchard that whilst I often find the red version of this cuvée, I hardly ever encounter the white – he just laughed and said ‘that’s because the Swiss prefer their reds!’. This has a nice wide nose – understated but quite focused and interesting. Richness is quite well balanced by the mouthwatering acidity. Good length too. Almost good, but I don’t see the stunning quality of the red.
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton
There are many dimensions to this deep, wide and dense nose, though the fact that it’s been in bottle only a few days might have taken away a little gloss. Very soft entry on the palate but you are soon bathed in soft, finely grained tannin. There’s real concentration yet there is balance too. The wine opens out well on the palate and is impressively long. This will require years and years in bottle, but is always well priced for the quality.
2005 Long-Depaquit Chablis Le Clos
A more mineral rather than sweet nose – quite understated with faint brioche and hints of citrus. Likewise the palate displays understated power and real minerality – super depth. What fruit shows itself is very ripe but pretty much hidden under the structure. Really fine acidity pushes a wonderful length. Really excellent.