2005

2005 Belland Roger Santenay Comme

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

A cork amalgum seal. Richly coloured. A super nose – immediately dark and wide with a faint twist of dark oak, then in an instant has lovely red-edged fruit and a dried cranberry note – yum. The palate is actually much more acid-forward than when tasted in November – it’s a harder drink now. I chose to leave it stoppered for 2 days (actually I didn’t plan 2 days, but I was ‘out’ the following night!); on the third day the aromatics still deliver with just a hint of lactic but very nice – more importantly the balance on the tongue has improved a lot. This was a good buy, but will really need at least 8-10 years of slumber.

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2005 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Combettes

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

A medium lemon yellow colour and a nose of citrus width, though never developing anything other than a little brioche depth. The palate is quite a mouthfull and initially reasonably textured, but as it slowly slides to the finish there is a little oaky texture and a lot of oak flavour. Despite concentration and intensity I’m currently missing freshness and a 1er cru mid-palate dimension. It’s a little one-dimensional and far from mouth-watering. I wouldn’t open another for 3-4 years to let the oak subside and hopefully unleash the wine within. The oak just needs time, but where will additional freshness come from(?) I won’t quite describe it as humble pie, but after 48 hours in the refridgerator, there’s a nice extra creamy dimension on the nose and palate, and that oak has largely melted. I’d still like more acidity but this is at least a ‘maybe’ now…

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2005 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Perrières

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. Width, and after their Combettes a more obvious higher-toast oak depth, with cream-edged pear fruit. The palate is more lithe and linear with better acidity. Good dimension in the mid-palate and the oak is less jarring and textured, super length here. This also needs 3 or 4 years for the oak to lessen, and the higher toast is not my beau, but there’s real quality here. Already after 2 hours open the high toast is transformed. Not as obviously dense as the Combettes but finer balance.

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2005 Seguin Manuel Corton-Charlemagne

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

50% new oak used in the elevage. A super nose – very wide and complex. In the mouth it’s mineral and linear yet there is also complexity. Lovely freshness. This is very primary, but is super.

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2005 Parent Pommard Epenots

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

The aromas are a little tight, but at it’s centre is a super core of red/black fruit. Wide, with velvety

tannin and excellent acidity. The fruit chases the acidity into the finish while the tannin clings to the

inside of your mouth. This will require some cellar time but has all the components to be a wonderful

bottle down the line…

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2005 Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin Au Closeau

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red with plenty of purple at the rim. The nose doesn’t have too much depth, but the width is interesting with fresh, precise red cherry/berry notes and an edge of cream. Leave it a couple of hours and you end up with a more classic and forward earthy note edged with cream. Fresh and perfectly balanced with understated but relatively fine tannin. The tannin comes a little more to the fore with time. Not the concentration of many Gevrey 1ers from the vintage, indeed it just seems a little light until you get some 1er cru dimension in the mid-palate and length. Would be a real success in 2004, but in context it’s only almost good in 2005. At any rate it’s interesting, competent, clean and fresh with no overt oak character – it’s also very tasty. At the price I paid (almost 60 Sfr), it’s not exactly great value though.

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2005 Liger-Belair Thibault Hautes Côtes de Nuits La Corvée de Villy

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry red colour. The nose starts with quite a dose of high toast oak, but over an hour this moves more into the background to show a little bacon and slight reduction – even after a couple of hours I didn’t get to the fruit. In the mouth it’s ripe and sweet and the oak is very much in the background. Medium-bodied with largely hidden tannins and very nice acidity. The length is excellent and far from woody. Despite the oak style being my least favourite and the nose missing a little dimension, this is a delicious wine that’s very pinot.

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2005 Doudet-Naudin Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

A large heavy bottle with a punt you could lose your fingers in, shame the attention to detail misses the cheapest of cheap plastic capsules. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a little oak, but it’s quickly lost, becoming wider with plenty of high tones and a faintly cedar depth – eventually a nice red berry note too. Some fat and reasonable depth – in fact it’s very tasty. On the negative side the acidity is slightly lifted and the flavours are a little muddled together. Not exactly cheap for a bourgogne either at 20 Sfr, but far from a bad value bottle – and as I said it’s quite tasty.

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2005 Guyot Olivier Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has a dense and slightly rustic core, but above soars beautiful and very fine fruit. There is some fat and a dense core that reflects the nose. The acidity is slightly bright but that’s par for the course for many tightening 2005 wines. Finer fruit than the appellation might suggest but with good fat and an engaging hint of rusticity. On day two, even that rusticity is gone – super! – I bought a couple more.

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