2005

2005 Jadot Louis Beaune Clos des Ursules

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour with some purple still at the rim. The nose starts robustly, full with dark fruit – similar to the 2005 Pierre Morey Bourgogne – but offering a purer darker core of fruit – time in the glass gives this a narrower, more blueberry impression. Though well balanced, the palate seems rather tight, though the extra mid-palate dimension and corresponding length is on a super level, it really does linger. A super bottle.

2005 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Deep cherry-red colour. The nose opens with fine, high-toned, red and black berry notes over a deeper, brooding core of fruit – eventually there’s a lovely pure redcurrant note in the emptying glass. In the mouth the acidity starts just a shade bright on the tongue though it contributes to a good, slowly lingering finish. Perhaps it was me, but 30 minutes in the acidity seemed okay. Tight, linear fruit with buried soft tannin and an understated, almost ethereal extra dimension of fruit on the mid-palate that follows also into the finish. Very excellent but other bottles should be left for at least 10 years.

2005 Latour Louis Meursault-Blagny Château de Blagny

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-pale yellow. The nose is wide and dense, with deep with a concentrated core of chunky pineapple – you have to wait for quite some time before higher-toned, more floral aspects, eventually peek through. Fresh and ebullient on the tongue, starting narrow and widening on the mid-palate. ‘Just enough’ acidity comes late and there’s a nice extra edge of slightly chalky fruit flavour as you go into the finish. The texture is good and so is the flavour, but there’s far from exciting concentration. I would need a little more acid ‘cut’ before I could describe this as mineral. Tasty and clean but initially hard to get worked up about. Right until the bottle was drained, this wine continued to improve. It didn’t speak to me enough to make me want to re-buy, but the wine at the end (3 hours) was far better than the start.

2005 Fougeray de Beauclair Fixin Clos Marion

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

The nose is much tighter with dried red fruits. This is also rather mouth-filling but just a little softer. The acidity is a little more forward though the tannin is finer. I feel a little more intensity but this is less friendly today than the 2006. Good length.

2005 Tardy Jean Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. A deep, slightly baked fruit impression intertwined with a dark oak note – I think the oak is influencing the fruit. In the mouth the texture’s okay but I have the impression there’s some dissolved gas here making the tannin a little forward and the acidity slightly prickly. There’s some extra dimension, but it’s clearly not showing its best. Day 2 and the nose starts less interesting, but slowly a red-currant note tries to assert itself. The ‘rasp’ that I associated with dissolved gas is still there on the palate, though the tannin seems less forward. Tight? For sure, but versus some other village chambolles I could mention there’s little here that demands a second look…

2005 Michelot Alain Nuits St.Georges Les St.Georges

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose hangs with heavy mineral notes, a lovely pure cherry note and faint mushroom in the background. The entry texture is soft and smooth until a strong wall of grainy tannin raises its head. The acidity and the fruit extract are certainly up to the competition, providing a slight burst of complexity in the mid-palate and an oak-tinged lingering flavour. Showing mainly linearity and structure now and muscled structure at that. Tuck it away for a few years, it will need it…

2005 de Montille Beaune Les Aigrots

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-pale yellow. Lot’s of high-toned, sherbet notes over stony fruit and occasional hints of brioche. Good freshness, and not too much of the plump fat you often get in white Beaune. Actually there seems a slight family resemblance to the domaine’s Puligny – though clearly the considerable depth of flavour in the mid-palate lack’s for the Puligny’s fineness. I’d like a little more focus on the nose, but there’s no doubting how tasty it is.

2005 Bourée Pierre Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Deeply coloured – purple at the rim. The nose starts with plenty of oak that has a hint of toast but no more – it’s very wide and covers dark-skinned fruit. It slowly evolves, but never shows the complexity and stems of the 2004. Mouth-filling, again there’s oak flavour and some well grained tannin too. The acidity starts a tiny bit forward, though only exacerbates the superb length – those flavours are a lot to do with oak and are eventually just a little bitter, but this is very impressive. Quite some concentration in the mid-palate and certainly it’s a little rustic, but it’s clearly full of wine – better than some GC’s! This will need several years for the wood to move into the background, but it’s a real quality effort that shows personality. I initially bought three, but am now going back for a couple more – clearly built for the long-haul. As a post-script, day two shows little obvious oak, still no stems and a better balance. All good signs – okay, maybe I’d have liked a little stems…

2005 Faiveley Joseph Volnay Santenots

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is not exactly effusive, but it has quite some depth of dark dried fruits and a more herbal top note. Very good texture then quickly a grainy tannin builds and the acidity seems just an afterthought – yet perfectly draws you into the finish. The mid-palate flavour and finish are cracking – intense and very long – chocolate and a little strawberry shaded oak tannin is the diminuendo. Not as typically brutal as the Lafon version, nor indeed what you might expect from Faiveley, but a super wine.

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