2005

2005 Bertagna Clos St.Denis

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. A nose of macerating cherries, slightly alcoholic but focused. Full in the mouth with concentrated fruit and equally concentrated, reasonably fine and ripe tannin. Very nice fruit that hints at an extra creamy dimension and lovely acidity. This wine has plenty of muscle and I wouldn’t hesitate to leave it another 10 years, yet was a tasty wee dram. Very good.

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambolle-Musigny

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A négoce wine. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has decent width but better depth, but note that it has an appreciable oak base. In the mouth the concentration is almost good and there is plenty of tannin though it seems more wood than grape-driven. The length is good, but despite it being a decent enough and very drinkable effort, indeed a wine you may be happy to have in your cellar in 10 years time, I see this as well behind the better village cuvées from the 2005 vintage.

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Mercurey

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Direct and concentrated fruit on the nose – dark red – little complexity. Nice texture – little overt tannin as it’s covered by the fruit, little overt acidity also but it is always balanced. Like the nose, nothing complex here but it’s perfectly packaged, easy-drinking and yet a concentrated effort. Zero faults apart from the want of a little character today. Will certainly keep and possibly grow in personality.

2005 Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red, still some purple reflections. High-toned black and blue fruit mingles with faint notes of violets – below lies a nice earthy base – lovely. Plenty of forward acidity, but here’s a 2005 that has not yet completely sunk into it’s acidic sleep. Very good fruit, relatively linear but it’s got intensity and length. The tannin is a low-level faint grain and I find no obvious oaky elements. This was a relative bargain and is recommended.

2005 Girardin Vincent Santenay Les Charmes

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose started blocky with a little dark oak and roasted dark fruit – a little uncouth – but five minutes in the glass and it is transformed with very pretty flashes of red and black fruits. In the mouth it starts in a similar fashion; muddled dark fruits and oak but quite silky. This improves no end, though never becoming as captivating as the nose. Smooth dark fruit and an ever-present but not unfriendly dark oak flavour as undertow. Smooth and easy drinking once it’s open.

2005 Mortet Thierry Gevrey-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. None of the lovely fruit notes of the 2004, rather a darker, quite sumptuous effect. Dense, but it’s a cushioned concentration and there’s super depth of creamy fruit, and completely buried structure today. Lovely, though it will be a long wait for complexity…

2005 Rossignol Nicolas Volnay Santenots

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour with some purple still at the rim. The nose was overwhelmed by dark, slightly toasty oak for the first couple of minutes, wait and there’s a lovely width of beautiful fruit but it unfortunately still holds onto a slightly reductive-style oak base. Good intensity, and again the fruit is lovely, complex and occasionally shows a little creamy edge. Very well balanced but again with plenty of background reduction/oak – that said, it’s almost gone after about 90 minutes. This is lovely and if the oak fades further, it will be even better than that! For drinking now, open 2 hours before, or decant 20 minutes then pour.

2005 Jadot Louis Beaune Clos des Ursules

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour with some purple still at the rim. The nose starts robustly, full with dark fruit – similar to the 2005 Pierre Morey Bourgogne – but offering a purer darker core of fruit – time in the glass gives this a narrower, more blueberry impression. Though well balanced, the palate seems rather tight, though the extra mid-palate dimension and corresponding length is on a super level, it really does linger. A super bottle.

2005 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Deep cherry-red colour. The nose opens with fine, high-toned, red and black berry notes over a deeper, brooding core of fruit – eventually there’s a lovely pure redcurrant note in the emptying glass. In the mouth the acidity starts just a shade bright on the tongue though it contributes to a good, slowly lingering finish. Perhaps it was me, but 30 minutes in the acidity seemed okay. Tight, linear fruit with buried soft tannin and an understated, almost ethereal extra dimension of fruit on the mid-palate that follows also into the finish. Very excellent but other bottles should be left for at least 10 years.

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