2005

2005 Jomain Marc Puligny-Montrachet Perrières

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. Width, and after their Combettes a more obvious higher-toast oak depth, with cream-edged pear fruit. The palate is more lithe and linear with better acidity. Good dimension in the mid-palate and the oak is less jarring and textured, super length here. This also needs 3 or 4 years for the oak to lessen, and the higher toast is not my beau, but there’s real quality here. Already after 2 hours open the high toast is transformed. Not as obviously dense as the Combettes but finer balance.

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2005 Lejeune Bourgogne

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a little backward yet at its base there’s sweet red fruit – almost jammy – and some musky-floral notes, the last drops are fine and red though. The palate has good concentration and smooth acidity that leaks darker, ripe fruit flavours into the finish and there’s some well-submerged tannin. In any other vintage this would be a super bourgogne, in 2005 it’s only ‘above average’. I find it’s just missing a little zing and zest, but I’ve had other Lejeune Bourgognes that turn out very well so I would say that despite it being not totally engaging today, this could get into quite a nice place in another 3-5 years. I think the odds are easily in my favour if I put a few in the cellar, if only for their handy 50cl size.

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2005 Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du Milieu

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Dark aromatics that are a little wilder-fruited than the Champans and again with a higher-toned floral background. Mineral concentration – and plenty of it! Lots of grainy tannin and a river of length. Very impressive wine.

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2005 Boisset Jean-Claude Latricières-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Deep aromas edged with a little dark oak. Some spritz, linear and perhaps not as fat as some but linear and muscular and shows excellent length.

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2005 Groffier Robert - Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. A wide, toffee-inflected nose that’s sweet. The palate is just a little less fresh than many, but it’s concentrated and savoury. The finish, versus what’s gone before, is rather modest. In isolation this is a very nice wine, in the context of the other bottles tonight it is on the second level.

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2005 Romanée-Conti La Tâche

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Aromatically closer to the style of the Richebourg than the Vivant, but right from the start it has focus and an extra and deeper register if not the anticipated spice-box. The flavour profile is riper/sweeter than the last wines – closer to the Echézeaux – but the there is a clear and distinct extra length. Currently this is at the subtle end of the traditional La Tâche continuum – it’s far from a blockbuster, but it certainly edges the Richebourg for the most complete wine so far.

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2005 Ponsot Bourgogne Cuvée Pinson

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Deeply coloured with a twist of purple. Wide, with a high toned and slightly estery nose. The palate is well concentrated and certainly well textured. High-toned, ripe fruit in the mouth with good acidity and good length. There is plenty of wine here, but today I find the high-toned flavour and aroma profile just a little odd (I remember a Dominique Laurent like this), in fact I didn’t want a second glass. Day two was much better – less high-toned and ‘chemical’. I very much enjoyed the last two glasses. A couple of bottles can sleep in the cellar…

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2005 Lejeune Pommard Les Argillières

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Tested from a half bottle. Medium-plus colour. The nose is wide with dark fruit, and a little spice with a chocolate edge, unfortunately a resting glass shows just an edge of cork taint. You don’t really taste it on the palate which is wide and concentrated, with plenty of reasonably grained, ripe tannin and again a hint of chocolate. Swirl the glass and you can just about ignore the taint. The length seems a little compromised, but this wine was good enough despite that contamination for me to still finish the half bottle – I can’t think of a much better recommendation!

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2005 Bouchard Aine Clos de la Roche

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Wide, mineral and earthy aromas. Jam-packed with ripe fruit. There’s quite some structure, but it’s very well covered.. A good length too. No wow, but very competent.

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