Medium-plus cherry-red. Obviously about 03 on the nose, with deep liqueur cherry. Nice mouthfeel – plenty of velvety tannin, long finishing for a bourgogne with a fruit-colour that just hints toward black – high-toned mid-palate, reasonable freshness too. Recommended.
2003
2003 Dauvissat Vincent Chablis
A young looking medium-pale yellow. The nose initially borders on the exotic with a little added caramel. Given time the nose becomes purer, still sweet, with nice high tones and shades of green-skinned apples. I’d describe the palate as rather mute and one dimensional following the Denis Mortet Bourgogne Blanc, but given the sweetness of the Mortet perhaps that was no surprise. Time shows a well concentrated finish and good-enough acidity though I would have preferred more. Almost good, but not on my re-purchase list.
2003 Romanée-Conti Grands-Echézeaux
There won’t be so many press tastings for this vintage as the average harvest across the domaine was a mere 18hl/ha – I guess I was lucky to taste this. Medium-plus colour. The nose is wide and deep with fresh berries, a little time in the glass gives up an extra spicy edge and extra purity to the fruit. In the mouth it’s fat and creamy and is loaded with velvety tannin and concentrated dry extract of fruit on the finish. This is a fascinating expression of the vintage, drier and less fresh than 2004 which I prefer.
2003 Chevigny Pascal Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes
Deep colour with a purple rim. The nose settles to bright red cherry with an edge of red berry fruit over a deeper, bubbling base. The fruit on the palate easily cuts through a swathe of tannin. There’s good concentration and it’s very enjoyable. It still comes over as cool and burgundian rather than hot and bothered. Frankly I expect it’s a wine for the short to medium term as the tannin could dominate if the fruit recedes. It’s been a bit of a crowd pleaser for guests at home this summer – particularly those shiraz lovers…
2003 l'Arlot Nuits St.Georges Clos des Fôrets St.Georges
2003 Arnoux Robert Nuits St.Georges Les Procès
2003 Guyon Les Fils d'Antonin Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium-plus cherry-red. Smells and tastes like a barrel sample. Starts high-toned, but slowly becomes purer and redder in aspect. Reasonable freshness, quite sweet and though the tannins are reasonably textured I find (with a little chewing) they are a little green and bitter. The wine’s perfectly fine with food and quite tasty, though I wouldn’t leave it in the cellar for too many years though.
2003 Thomas Charles Nuits St.Georges
2003 Bertagna Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes
Big heavy bottle exuding quality – hope the wine’s a match – particularly as at €14 it’s not cheap for a bourgogne. Medium-plus colour. The nose whilst shouting 2003 has an extra dimension – it’s close to what you expect from a barrel sample with very forward sweet, ripe red fruit. The palate is also reminiscent of a barrel sample, showing good freshness, a hint of sweetness and a mouthwatering finish of surprising depth. Really first-class bourgogne. Within the context of appellations this is the pinnacle of 2003 red burgundy. There’s now a case in cellar.