Medium colour. This has limited aromatic width, but what depth! There’s a lot of Vosne about the nose; spice, ginger and warmer fruit at the base. In the mouth this has something in common with the nose – not really a grand cru impact, but absolutely a grand cru complexity, mid-palate dimension and finish – the acidity focusing and extending the length. This is seriously good and much more open than I had right to expect from a 2002. Lovely wine.
Bottle 7 from 12. On opening I hardly recognise this wine – the colour still has that young medium-plus cherry-red hue, but the nose has a slightly ashy, oaky aroma and the flavours are quite strident – what’s needed is a little aeration. Et voila: 3 minutes from opening this is aromatically singing, creamy deep redcurrant, indeed so creamy it’s faintly lactic but it is really wonderful. At the core there is a hint of something a little more mature, the ashy element has become a hint of leafy undergrowth, but just a hint. Clearly the acidity is a little ascendant now, but the mid-palate concentration remains enough that the wine is not mortally compromised and there is still an edge of tannin too. A long way from real maturity and still showing sufficient density and energy to keep me coming back for more.
A relatively deep gold though there’s nothing amiss on the nose; which is a little dense but like the skin of an onion keeps shedding a new layer of interest. The palate starts a little monolithic and misses some excitement, yet in the mid-palate a line of super-smooth acidity ushers you into a more interesting mid-palate and finish. I kept coming back to this and each time it was more engaging…
This shows a lovely mix of bright and precise berries and currants. Mouth-filling concentration, just enough acidity and full of flavour. It’s a joy to drink now.. Dark-edged fruit, the structure comes in quite late in the mid-palate to make the point that you’ve called early – but the demeanour remains friendly…
Medium, medium-plus colour but quite an amber caste – I wonder how this has been stored. The fruit has a pronounced jammy aroma and some dried cranberry, eventually widening to give a dark cherry and some dark minerality at the core. Sweet in the mouth and there’s fine texture, too – the acidity has a slightly bitter prominence, but not enough to make you wince or regret the next sip. Actually it drinks very well. I have the feeling that it might have been stored at a high-ish temp at some stage during its lifetime, but it clearly survived the trip to all the way to the bottle-bank…
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