2002

2002 Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium colour. A wide, interesting and smokey nose of quite some complexity, eventually a little bacon-fat comes through too. The palate is nicely delineated if not so concentrated, yet is both elegant and delicate. Actually this is rather beautiful and shows wonderful balance, such that I expect it will be very long lived. Super and with beautiful aromatics too. This was a hard bottle to open – not through guilt, rather the cork – pushing the corkscrew into the top caused the cork to start sinking and wine to squirt as there was no airspace. With incredible care and a twin-pronged ‘pull’ tool I got the cork out – phew! Comparing to the other wines opened this cork seemed narrower in diameter…

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2002 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Deeper ruby-red colour vs the 02 DRC 1er. The nose is sweeter with a hint of oak and cedar and perhaps just a trace of volatility. Beautiful texture, opens out over the palate very well. This wine in isolation a rather good, next to the DRC it’s lacking focus and precision. There is more density and intesity but not quite the length of the DRC. Today this comes a distant second, it will be interesting to make the test again in another ten years or so.

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2002 Clair Bruno Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

In hindsight it was more of a mistake not to ask for larger glasses in the restaurant than to delay the request for a decanter – this wine was a missed opportunity. Over about 90 minutes the wine never opened out on the nose, subdued aromatics of red fruit with a faint black edge. From time-to-time I imagined more, but then it was gone. The palate is that of a perfectly balanced, linear light-middleweight that is fine of tannin and shows good freshness. On this outing the length is also unremarkable. Too tight for interesting.

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2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Perrières

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium lemon yellow. The nose is fresh and understated, yet offers up many layers with a faintly creamy edge. The palate is concentrated yet also understatedly provides layers and layers of interest – I’m now regretting that only 4 more lie in the cellar. Lovely acidity and length. Wonderful in an understated way.

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2002 Colin Marc Santenay Vieilles Vignes

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium red, just about holding onto a cherry colour. The nose is of powdery round red fruit – a little soft but with some depth and just the last traces of toasty oak. In the mouth this shows a little fat and a nice creamily long finish. The tannins are very subdued and the acidity is nicely balancing for the ripe fruit. Nice wine.

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2002 Colin Marc Chassagne-Montrachet

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-minus colour. The nose is sweetly interesting, backed by a faint cedar note – gives the impression of a denser wine than reality, eventually a high toned alcoholic note develops. The palate has lovely fruit and slightly astringent tannin, but the acidity is rather tart. These negative aspects rather obscure a nice level of fat. I found this improving with aeration before slipping back as before.

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2002 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

A wild cacophony of red and black fruit over oak greets your nose, slowly focuses to bright black cherry eventually with a sweet, creamy edge. This is likewise black-fruit dominated in the mouth with more than a trace of oak flavour, but no bad oak texture. Super acidity and a finish that for most of the trip is also a little oaky then surprises with a creamy flourish. There’s just a little more wood evident here than with the other wines, but there’s also depth, good texture and great balance. This wine is showing very young – I wouldn’t hesitate to leave this 5 years before revisiting, the base material is very good.

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2002 Drouhin Joseph Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

A young looking medium yellow. The nose is wide but subtle, quite complex, faint honeysuckle and subtle ginger. The palate is a model of balance and elegance, building concentration in the mid-palate and very slowly fading into a coconut-edged finish. A wine to slowly savour – lovely.

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2002 Guyon Antonin Corton-Charlemagne

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

Drunk directly following Drouhin’s 02 Puligny Clos de la Garenne. This is just a little darker yellow. The nose frankly assaults your senses with wide, brawny notes of flowers, wet wool, creamy vanilla and just a little honey. The palate is likewise, no model of restraint; muscled, rippling acidity wrapped in a slightly buttery fatness but somehow also an edge of minerality that shows on the long finish. It’s a show of muscles here, but it’s a very impressive show.

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