1999

1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Similar depth of colour to the Varoilles, but shows just a trace of amber at the rim. Redder aspect to the nose with an extra raspberry depth. Rounder and more elegant with perfect acidity. The tannins seem better covered by the extract. Again good length and another good wine.

1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Same colour as the 2000. It’s confirmed – the nose again showing high tones over a red cherry base, just hint of spicy development on this wine too. Nice mouthfeel, concentrated with good acidity. The tannin clings to your gums, but they’re finely grained. A very good finish – will be a good wine.

1999 Castagnier Guy Clos de Vougeot

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deep cherry red colour. Pure cherry but not the penetrating cordial nose of the ‘Charmes’ Much more subdued in character too despite it’s concentration. Good acidity and more noticeable tannic structure – very smooth mind! So, equally concentrated but a little more austere in presentation. A perfectly good, though not an outstanding example.

1999 Thomas Charles Grands-Echézeaux

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium ruby red. The nose starts a little disjointed – bit of oak here, a little cherry there. Slowly the high toned fruit mix melds with the (now fading) creamy oak – I really think that this could me mistaken for a white wine if you didn’t see the colour! Perfect acidity and medium strength, fine tannin. The palate isn’t fat, but there’s a nice persistence to the creamy fruit. This is a super, balanced, very elegant and drinkable wine – I’d expect a little more of everything from a top Grands Echézeaux, but I’m not sure it would provide more enjoyment!

1999 Chézeaux Clos St.Denis Vieilles Vignes

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deeply coloured cherry red, right to the rim. The nose has good depth with a laser-like focus of black cherry running through the middle, dried fruits also in evidence. Superb intensity on the palate – this is special. The fruit just keeps on going through the achingly long finish. Perfect acidity and tannins that you hardly notice – buy every bottle that you can find!

1999 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium cherry red colour. The nose is dense and tight, still with some oak apparent. Very concentrated palate with good acidity and very refined tannins. Superb length too, but this wine is as tight as a drum – definitely not a wine for drinking now. Will be superb in another 10 years.

1999 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Similar colour to the 2000. The nose is quite reserved but similar style to how the 2000 develops. The palate shows perfectly delineated red fruits with fine acidity. There’s more than enough concentration to buffer the tannins. Despite the reserved presentation this is a 1999 that you could drink today but that would be such a waste. The flavours linger beautifully

1999 Faiveley Joseph Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Nightmare – bottle 1 – tainted as tainted can be, a big shame. Bottle 2 – medium-plus ruby red, still cherry at the rim. The nose starts in an almost syrah way, slowly unknitting to give a little woodspice then really dense black cherry that slowly becomes more red and shows a little coffee. There’s still a little grain from the wood, but this is one full-on wine with incredible length – you really can taste it minutes later. The palate has fine tannins, good acidity and super-intense fruit, shaded towards black. This is a wine that’s a big black shadow of its future self and despite commendable depth doesn’t yet shout ‘I’m a great wine’, but wait another 10 years and things might be starting to get very interesting.

1999 Gros Michel Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red. A little spice and a little less oak but still some toast, hard to get at much else. Red fruit with good acidity and smooth tannin – comes across a little firm but also comes across very young.

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