Medium ruby colour. Starts with a little cigarette-ash but the nose soon bursts into life with gorgeous, haunting red fruits – lovely. The palate is not on the same level as the nose, but has some sweetness, nice acidity too. Basically very simple except for that haunting nose.
1999
1999 Gambal Alex Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots
Medium ruby-red. The nose is a wide and complex mix of powdery red cherry and interesting green/herbal spicy notes. Medium weight at best, but has good balance, well-mannered tannins and a very pretty lingering finish. A very pleasant bottle that offers good value, but definitely 2nd class vs the best from this vintage.
1999 Roty Joseph Marsannay Les Ouzeloy
Medium ruby colour. The nose is more like the 99 Roty bourgogne, a little estery and diffuse. This has a similar tartness to the fruit too, much less friendly than the Champs St.Etienne which at this stage I would certainly take ahead of this. Given about 1 hour from opening the texture improves, more fat and slightly less tart. Almost good concentration and some sweetness, but I’d still go for the St.Etienne.
1999 Clair Francoise et Denis Santenay
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
Short note, two days after drinking. Medium cherry-red. Soaring if rather tight nose, very elegant with high, fresh tones. The palate is also a little tight, but, like the nose, very elegant. The acidity carries it through the mid-palate into a good finish. Good concentration and has the balance to last very well.
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne Rouge
Medium, medium-plus cherry red – holding its colour very well. The nose is a little tight; mainly glossy red cherry, but not very expressive. The palate is reserved yet quite sophisticated. Good acidity, some fat, a little grain to the tannin and very good concentration in the mid-palate. A wine that is currently hiding much of its wares but is clearly a very ‘above average’ bourgogne.
1999 Roty Joseph Bourgogne Les Pressoniers
Medium-pale ruby colour. The nose is not so fantastic – deeper notes that hint more of oak than fruit and higher-toned estery, indeed ketone influences. Drain the glass and the last vestiges of wine that cling to the glass smell gorgeous – shame you have to wait for it! The wine shows a very tart aspect – a hint of the unripe – an extra dimension on the mid-palate, though more creamy-oak than fruit-driven. Grainy, faintly astringent tannin. A curate’s egg. Given a choice between the currently uninteresting Barthod and this, I’d still go for the Barthod!