1999

1999 Jadot Louis Beaune Les Teurons

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium ruby-red. The nose is just a little reduced, eventually a mix of sweet, slightly dark oak and understated redder notes. The palate is fresh and linear with well-covered tannins. The acidity is a little tart, but there is quite enough fruit and a nice creamy edge to the fruit and acid-driven finish. Fresh but fun – I enjoyed.

1999 Mugnier J-F Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium ruby red, still with a cherry-red rim. The nose starts a little diffuse but quickly tightens; it’s still a rather understated and bashful but has soft red fruit with the faintest cream rim – as you would expect (hope) from any of these wines, you can sniff this all day long as the intensity slowly builds into a perfect redcurrant as the glass empties. The sweet palate reflects the nose – it’s no powerhouse – intensity without apparent weight and almost perfect silky texture. There’s plenty of acidity but the balance is first-class. Absolutely everything about this wine is understated – apart from it’s class! There are no fireworks, but I’m still sad that I bought 6 and not 12! Young obviously, but a rewarding drink right now.

1999 Pavelot Jean-Marc et Hugues Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

The first from the case. Medium-plus cherry red – still very young looking. The nose is broad and quite dense, a little meaty, just a little moist undergrowth too – not particularly fruit-driven – though an hour in the glass gives cleaner, higher toned dark mineral notes and finally a little tobacco mixed with red berries. Fresh with intense dark fruit, very linear and quite mineral. The texture is silky and despite the linear presentation gives the impression of some nice oak upholstery – a little grainy tannin adheres to the palate. Very young with a fine future ahead.

1999 Chézeaux Clos St.Denis

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Another corked bottle, so onto number 2. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is very wide and somehow silky. It’s very slow to evolve, but first you note dried cranberry fruit before a subtle blackcurrant confiture, the last drops in the glass are sweet and red. Like the nose, my first impression of the palate is its silken texture, the second is the length – impossibly long – no other of these wines comes close and it’s not about bitter oak, it’s about a subtle sweetness that clings to the palate. There’s a real, but measured intensity about the palate, driven by perfect acidity and tannins that are there only if you search for them. Despite the concentration there is perfect balance, this wine is the ultimate in sophistication. Monumental, it’s the best wine I’ve drunk this year…

1999 Jadot Louis Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

After 4 months without a corked bottle, bugger – corked – now I only have 4 of these left. The colour is medium, medium-plus ruby red with just a little less cherry red at the rim than the first wine. The nose starts with a waft of dark, spicy oak but this is quickly gone to reveal a dark and understatedly spicy base. Time in the glass opens the wine out into a redder and finer vernacular without much in the way of density. Lithe and rather linear the plate shows forward acidity, but such is the superb intensity that this is kept quite in balance. What tannin can be discerned against the background of acidity and intensity has just a little astringency and the faintest edge of bitterness. The length is impressive, but it is rather ‘thin’ and an extension of the flavours I associated with the tannin, just a little tart too. The nose is now rather good, but the palate needs some time and currently shows much less ripe than the Mugnier Amoureuses.

1999 Hudelot-Noellat Romanée Saint-Vivant

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour with a hint of amber at the rim. A very deep, wide, earthy and impressive nose. Mouthfilling, still with plenty of drying tannin. Given the nose and structure this slips disappointingly unobtrusively into the finish – but it’s one very long, if slightly oaky finish! In the end the astringent (though ripe) tannins dominate the mid-palate and finish a little too much for current enjoyment. Taking stock there’s a modicum of maturity on the nose and surely a great grand cru nose at that. If the nose hints at maturity the palate is way too young; it’s concentrated and long but the structure is dominant today. When the palate catches up I think this will be a stunning bottle.

1999 Gros Frère & Soeur Richebourg

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour, still with hints of cherry. Shiny red fruit on the nose with a black undertow and a little earth, eventually a little orange too. Sweet and concentrated with real mid-palate intensity. Soft entry, well covered tannin with a slowly fading good length that maybe even has a hint of licorice. Rather like de Vogüé’s 01 Musigny this displays apparently less ripe tannin when compared to others in its flight.

1999 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is very high toned, just a little metallic and is faintly red in tone – over 90 minutes there is little more showing. A little sweetness, rather linear and some intensity too. The acidity is mouth-watering and the length almost good. Linear and giving little today – but many villages and 1er cru wines from 1999 are showing in quite a similar way right now. Seems an okay wine but one that’s best left in the cellar for at least a couple more years. Day two this has much more depth and interest – confirming that it’s time to leave in the cellar.

1999 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Rouge

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Deep nose. A trace of reduction is insifficient to hide the width and depth of the fruit – more mature notes on display with this wine. This is quite powerful wine, held in-line with good acidity, faintly grainy tannin and a good length. Despite the secondary notes on the nose this is still very-much a young wine.

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