1999

1999 Pommier Denis Chablis Côte de Lechet

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Worryingly deep colour. The nose, however, is restrained, waxy and showing only the merest suggestion of oxidation – in short it’s a nice, older and ready wine. The palate is balanced and mineral, without showing obviously mouthwatering acidity. The old-timer’s oxidation is there on the finish but it’s very, very mild. A nice wine that is more advanced than a 99 should be, but is not ‘dulled’, or ‘tired’ – it is tasty now and should be drunk quickly – we also drank (and enjoyed) the second bottle quickly!

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1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose starts deep and wide – still primary – slowly providing a soft, savoury bacon-fat background. In the mouth this is intense, wide and mouth-filling. There is still plenty of tannin, faintly astringent and with a bitter chocolate edge that adds a little cream before going very long in the finish. There is a ton of structure here but it’s very well matched by the extract. Excellent, and wait a minute – hmm – I can still buy this cheaper than some ‘mid-range’ 2005 premiers…!

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1999 Faiveley Georges Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red. Faint higher tones over mineral coated pure red cherry that plums a good depth if not much width – give it another hour and there’s a lovely piercing red note. In the mouth it starts narrow, slowly widening as it heads for the mid-palate. The acidity is forward and more than just a little tart but the tannins are well hidden. Everything remains tight going into the finish but I have to say there is a sneaky extra dimension of creamy flavour that expands further in the finish – certainly the most compelling part. Time gives a little more fat and interestingly a little more astringency to ‘balance’. Okay now, but I won’t open another in the next 5 years…

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1999 Potel Nicolas Bourgogne Rouge 'Maison Dieu' Vieilles Vignes

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is deep, with dark oak coating more distant baked red cherry, topped by higher-toned alcoholic notes. Initially good acidity starts to turn a little bright in the mid-palate and even faintly bitter as it runs into the finish – but I’m being picky here. To focus purely on the acidity ignores reasonably well grained tannin and ripe, oak coated fruit. This remains an above average and quite young bourgogne that is pretty well balanced and still needs a couple more years in the cellar – I think it will always retain its oaky base, but it’s not drying.

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1999 Dujac Morey St.Denis

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is brown-sugar sweet with quite some understated density, very subtle stems and eventually a mix of black cherry and a last note of redcurrant. The palate is very well textured with fine grained tannin offsetting dense fruit and very good acidity. The only negative today is a little oak-driven bitterness on the finish. This is showing as a very young wine – much younger and denser than the 1995 at the same stage of evolution (or perhaps better to say age) – I wouldn’t open another for 3-5 years. Perhaps it’s time to dig out another 95…

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1999 Mugnier J-F Chambolle-Musigny

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

The first bottle from a pack of 12 halves. Medium ruby-red, still edged with cherry-red. The nose starts just a little lactic, but the raspberry fruit soon dovetails to give a better creamy raspberry effect – the last sniffs are quite brown sugar… The palate is lithe, though seems rather less concentrated than the preceding Lignier, but it’s light on its feet with a medium finish – the acidity slowly lingers. These 1999’s were lovely on release but just now they are ‘only’ showing as ‘pretty good’. Much less compelling than the 2000 Lignier today. I’ll let them rest for 3-5.

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1999 Potel Nicolas Volnay Vieilles Vignes

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is a real stunner; full of individual red berries – redcurrant and cranberry. The palate has an understated entry which starts narrow, opening wider as you move along with the acidity into the mid-palate. Silken with well covered tannins and a nice length. Wonderful villages despite the short note!

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1999 Drouhin Joseph Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A deep core of colour, just the last vestige of cherry at the rim. The nose is deep and dense if rather bashful to start, showing little more than dark flashes of toasty, sweet oak – fortunately this remains an undertone before fading as a dense and primary deep red note comes through that becomes finer with aeration – I can only summarise it as ‘very sexy’. After wine #2 this is altogether denser, softer and with riper fruit too. It’s brimming with intensity and concentration – it’s a real mouth-filler – showing a lovely expansion in the mid-palate before slowly narrowing in the good finish. In the background there plenty of soft texture from the tannins, but they will need a few more years in the cellar to shrink. Everything about this wine is more fun and lush than the Jadot Bèze, if rather less tight and precise.

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1999 Arnoux Robert Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A deep ruby-red core right to the rim. The nose is a bit of a give-away; once the prominent dark oak fades – 5 minutes – you are left with a wide and spicy vista over deeper sweet and dark oak. It takes rather a long time – over 1 hour – before striking yet still spice-edged cherry fruit is revealed. After the last wine this is sleeker and certainly more polished yet is equally concentrated. The acidity is just a little brighter but the velvet tannins and the finish are certainly more oak driven and just show a little bitterness because of that – it’s long though. Complex and compelling, though this wine is the only one of these five to show a strong winemaker’s signature with its modern oak-driven style.

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