1998

1998 Gros Frère & Soeur Grands-Echézeaux

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Almost the wine of the series – were it not for the cork! The cork itself was slightly unusual in that the only inscription it bore was the number 983 – even the GF& S Bourgogne told me more. Said cork also had an unusual rancio-type of note – there it was in the wine too – unless you swirled and then it was gone – clinged to the palate though. So everything was dumped into a decanter to see if I could shift the smell, it wasn’t overpowering, but it was enough to spoil (my) enjoyment. The decanter failed to clear the ‘problem’ so I had to make a quick swirl with the wine before each time putting nose to glass. The colour showed no obvious oxidation – a lovely deep ruby colour with minimal fading to the rim. Post swirling the nose was first-class young, aristocratic Bourgogne, depth, bloody dried cranberries, coffee, dried currants – so complex. The palate showed none of the astringency of many, the tannins marked by a slight grain, but nothing more. The acidity is shows up on the mouthwatering finish, which despite no explosion lingers really well. But then the real taint came through – it had to be the GE that was tainted didn’t it(!) I got a new bottle, but didn’t see the point in opening it – I know it’s a superb wine – cork permitting!

1998 Gouges Henri Nuits St.Georges

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium cherry-red. The nose starts a little subdued, but given time there’s a high toned sweet note – almost blueberry – eventually a little spice too. Initially the palate starts a little disappointing and thin, though the tannins are smooth and the acidity’s good. Given 90 minutes the palate fattens up some. There’s a nice purity to the fruit though the medium finish never loses a slight bitter aspect. If I hadn’t given this some time to open up I’d have to say this pales next to the following wine, but it’s well balanced so I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt.

1998 Guyon Antonin Corton Clos du Roy

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Instantly too young, tannic/astringent. Improved plenty with food and an hour in a decanter – so I’ll give you the latter version! Medium/medium-plus core of cherry red that slowly fades to the rim. The nose starts with a blast of high-toned red and black fruit, settling down to subtle high-toast oak and a concentrated mix of black fruit and meaty tones. Ripe, deep black fruit and tough in a Corton style. There’s some grain to the tannin and a medium-plus length. Good, but wait at least 3 years.

1998 Rion Daniel Côte de Nuits Villages Le Vaucrain

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus ruby colour, some development and a little amber at the rim. The nose comes mainly from the well toasted wood with coffee and roast nuts in evidence, faint powdery plum in the background. The palate is sweet and medium bodied with a slight rasp to the medium tannins and almost good acidity. Again you’ll notice the wood more than the fruit. Personally I prefer to taste the fruit, but if you like sweet toasted oak in the style of a certain pastry chef – you’ll love this.

1998 Clair Bruno Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Deep cherry red. The nose is sweet with some toasty oak and cooking red cherries. The palate is surprisingly fat and sweet. Nice acidity, well mannered tannins and lovely long fruit – red and black. This is really excellent. I expect that the oak (which is very well done) will soon start to add to the complexity – I bought a few more of these after this tasting.

1998 l'Arlot Côte de Nuits Villages Clos du Chapeau

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium ruby red, shading slightly to amber. The nose starts with sweet, creamy, toasty oak of sufficient volume to drown out traces of fruit. Given time (45 minutes) a little plummy fruit comes through. The equally sweet palate shows fat, depth, soft tannin and understated acidity that flows into a slightly creamy finish. You can find a little candied fruit, so tasty, but I like a little more fruit, so would personally wait another year or two to see if any appears.

1998 Jadot Louis Pommard

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

(From a half bottle) Deep ruby still with a little cherry at the rim. The nose is predominantly sweet red fruit, perhaps just a trace of a meaty note too. The palate is also sweet with good tannins that started a little rustic but softened with air. There’s no astringency to the palate, just balanced concentration and good acidity that lifts the finish slightly. A moreish wine that was done all too quickly. Good villages.

1998 Angerville Marquis d' Volnay Champans

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus cherry/ruby core, not much fading. The nose is a little closed but shows restrained sweet red cherry and a little floral note. The palate is super-smooth with good fat. The tannins are only there if you look for them and there’s a distinctive creamy note to the finish, only one problem, there’s also a distinctive cork taint too, hence, the subdued nose I suppose. A better bottle should be rather fine.

1998 Boillot Jean-Marc Volnay

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red. The nose is a little subdued, raspberry and redcurrant and a little alcohol. The palate is sweet with good acidity with slightly grainy tannins that show a little astringency. Medium bodied fruit which also shows in quite a subdued way. A pleasant and tasty well-balanced wine, but currently quite subdued – hint of taint?

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