1998

1998 Boillot Jean-Marc Beaune Montrevenots

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

A premier cru you don’t see so often, it lies above Cols des Mouches and borders Pommard’s (villages)Le Bas de Saussilles. Deep cherry red. Lovely nose of red and black fruit, nice purity too. The palate shows deep black fruit, good acidity and tannins that start quite drying – good texture despite the astringency. After two hours in a decanter there’s balance and tons of interest – the tannins don’t seem so bad now – maybe they’ve dissolved the inside of my mouth! Has pure fruit and excellent density that should easily outlast the tannin, more a Pommard than a Beaune.

1998 Potel Nicolas Nuits St.Georges Vaucrains

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

More a tasting note about the manifestation of cork taint, medium, medium-plus ruby red and no fading. The nose is subdued with just a trace of blue skinned fruit, no taint and a slightly green, minty rather than leafy note. In the mouth there’s definitely a little taint on the finish – which is a shame as this is a very smooth wine. After 10 minutes it’s there on the nose too – still faint. Obviously this wine is close to my detection (or should that be toleration) limit as a small amount left in a glass for 30+ minutes actually tastes quite nice…

1998 Gros Michel Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium cherry red. Similar toast to the 1999 with a little blacker fruit. Lovely fruit with well mannered but grippy tannins – perfect acidity. Very good.

1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium cherry red, a paler salmon shade at the rim. The nose is not so pronounced but has the high tones of the other ‘varoilles’ though with a much deeper spicy aspect and some chocolate. Good concentration to the fruit though seems more roasted and mouth wrapping, but fine, tannins. Good acidity and god good length. Again a nice wine.

1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Light yellow. The nose doesn’t burst from the glass quite like the 1997 currently does. With time and swirling you can coax out a little sugar coated pineapple. The mildly oaky palate has good acidity, understated concentration and a finish that builds and builds – I expect the opposite with Corton-Charlemagne! Seemed fatter with the langoustine and not bad with the goat’s cheese. Overall a bit disappointing

1998 Roulot Guy Bourgogne Blanc

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Pale yellow, perhaps a hint of green at the rim. The nose is a little tight, but gives up a nice persistent and high toned nose. The palate is actually a little harsh, but an hours aeration starts to smooth the edges. Nice acidity and reasonable length. Almost good.

1998 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium ruby with a cherry red colour at the rim. The nose is of red berries and a cedar note which grows with time. Lovely silky texture – more so than the 1999, though not instantly apparent there’s super fruit concentration – it’s just so well balanced with the acidity. Some slightly rasping tannin on the long and creamy finish – not quite as long as the 1999, but this wine is much more forward and drinkable. Lovely.

1998 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Perhaps a little deeper colour than the previous wines, still cherry at the rim. Just a little more complexity on the nose, there’s a musky undergrowth to the cherry and raspberry fruit. The tannins are more drying – in fact very drying – but they are finely grained. Given the texture and concentration of the fruit I’m not really concerned about the tannins – though I think you will always know they are there. The finish is a good one, there’s even an unusual orange note. A concentrated, interesting and very young wine.

1998 Fevre William Chablis Le Clos

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Pale gold. A fresh nose of grapefruit. The palate betrays a little (oak induced?) harshness, but this softens with aeration. As the harsh note fades there’s a waxy-smooth character to the palate with a creamy butterscotch on the medium plus length finish. Despite good concentration and even with time in the glass I didn’t really warm to this wine

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