1998

1998 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium cherry red colour. Lovely nose, red cherry with a shade of black fruit. The smooth palate has good depth, good acidity together with mild tannins. Medium length. This is a pure and pretty wine with little to dislike.

1998 l'Arlot Nuits St.Georges Clos des Fôrets St.Georges

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

I’ve had mixed success with wines from this domaine, hence, often pass them by, but . . . Medium ruby colour, still cherry at the rim. The nose is really very tasty, residual oak, sweet, very candied cherry fruit over a creme brulée base. The palate has forward but very refined tannins, good acidity and a medium length finish. Whilst very pretty, I’d hope for a bit more concentration in top 1er Cru – but it has to be said that this is complex and will be very elegant, particularly for a 1998 – lovely aromatics too – I bought a couple more!

1998 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red. Nose is high toned, a lovely raspberry- cherry mix – biased to raspberry, below is a subtle and fading vanilla. The palate is wonderfully smooth, with super acidity, red fruit and a really stand-out length. The silky tannins in this case don’t share the astringency so common in their Côte de Nuits cousins. Excellent – I’ve bought some more.

1998 Gros Frère & Soeur Vosne-Romanée

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Good deep colour, still shaded to cherry red. The nose is deep, black and spicy – just a little high tone akin to a redcurrant and raspberry mix, becomes quite blackberry then more raisined. The palate has plenty of drying tannin – slightly astringent at the end and a black aspect to fruit here too. Good length and acidity. This wine is super, but very, very young – I’d go for this ahead of the Grivot.

1998 Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos St. Philibert

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Pale to medium gold. The nose is unlike all the other wines, high toned, pear-drops. Less fat than 2000/ 1999 but as long as the 1999. Penetrating fruit in an almost oxidised (but not) style. Well integrated and mouth-watering acidity. The wine starts in a completely different style to the others, but 3 hours later it’s obviously cut from the same cloth – no hint of oxidation and shows the characteristic nose – we were all impressed with the transformation.

1998 Rion Daniel Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus ruby core with a lighter cherry-red rim. The nose has deep plummy tones with just a trace of oak influence. The wine is smooth and sweet with nicely concentrated red fruits and well mannered tannins. The acidity is just right, helping the finish to hang on just that little bit longer. Young, but quite a smoothie for a village Nuits.

1998 Clair Bruno Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

From vines that were planted in 1902. A deep core of ruby, fading to cherry red. The nose has a super depth of slightly spicy black cherry. Intense black fruit that really holds into the finish. Good acidity and thick, velvetty, drying tannins. Very young and potentially a super wine.

1998 Grivot Jean Vosne-Romanée Bossières

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

The colour is pretty deep, still a little cherry colour at the rim. The nose is starting to show some development – lots of interest here – deep black cherry, just a little cooked and spicy plum fruit, eventually you can find a little raspberry fruit too. The palate has plenty of tannin, but very much in the Grivot style i.e. quite extracted but not too grainy. Good fruit with reasonable espresso-style length and just right acidity. Much more interesting than the 1997 non – Bossières villages.

1998 Gros Frère & Soeur Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Generously deep colour. The appealing nose is shaded towards black fruit, developing a few high tones. On the palate, there’s fresh acidity and tannins that are still astringent. For the appelation you’ll find slightly sour but well concentrated fruit and a medium length finish. I’d wait at least another year before drinking any more of these. Well above average for a bourgogne.

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