A bright medium colour, somewhere between cherry and ruby-red. To start, the nose is an absorbing and deep mix of faint mushroom, absorbed creamy oak and a sweet, almost impenetrably deep, musky fruit. Good acidity, if perhaps a tad tart, and a real kick of intensity in the mid-palate onwards. No rough or astringent tannins here, just a very above average finish.
1998
1998 Roty Joseph Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur Bas
Beautifully clear medium ruby-red colour. The nose is a mix of faintly old oak and wonderfully pure red berry. Fresh palate shows very good acidity and slightly dry – but well – managed tannin. There’s an impression of oak on the palate too, in that slightly drying sense, though the fruit is well concentrated enough to cope. Actually reminds me of a 1996, and a reasonably forward one at that. Enjoyable, but not a ‘re-buy’.
1998 Clair Bruno Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode
Drunk directly following Leroy’s Bourgogne of the same year and more interesting in every dimension. Deep, meaty yet sweet fruity nose with an edge of vanilla. Good mouth perfume, fresher yet without the tart aspect of the Leroy. Concentrated, still some quite dry tannin but it’s well covered by the fruit. Long finishing, still with a little vanilla. Very high quality for the price, and bought for cheaper than the Leroy too!
1998 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras
Medium ruby-red – looks lovely in the glass. The nose is very tight, hints of marzipan, red fruit and a high-toned estery note – not that nice. It’s a concentrated wine, but equally there’s plenty of (currently) astringent tannin that has a trace of bitterness about it. The acidity is also on quite a high level. Returning after an hour there is a little more balance, both the tannin and the acidity are in more harmony with the fruit – I must say though that it never quite became ‘charming’.
1998 Garaudet Jean Pommard Les Noizons
1998 Verget Chablis Bougros
1998 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Beaune Les Cras Vieilles Vignes
Younger, deeper ruby-red colour than the Garaudet that preceded it. Where the Garaudet’s nose was high-toned and fruit driven, this is much deeper and more savoury with an edge of oak. Very fresh palate, the tannins show in a grainy fashion but not drying. There is a long and creamy finish, the fruit is tight and linear with a black-olive edge – doesn’t show the friendly face of the last wine but has plenty in-hand for the future.
1998 Garaudet Jean Beaune Belissand
Medium ruby-red. The nose is a lovely bright pinot, high-toned sweet red cherry, though eventually a hint of volatility comes through. A fresh, sweet palate with a lovely burst of interest on the mid-palate and no harshness to the tannins. Lingers mouthwateringly into the finish. This is a tasty, well-made and very drinkable wine that’s just lacking that nth dimension to reach the very highest level.
1998 Forey Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots
Medium-plus red, more ruby than cherry, gently fading at the rim. The nose is quite forward but also rather dense, red fruit and an underlying cedar/mineral note. The palate starts in a very understated way almost to the point of there being something missing, but the intensity builds into quite an impressive mid-palate and very long finish. The acidity is a touch bright in the finish but there is nothing at-all astringent about the tannins. I wine that I felt lacking at the start, only to finish with me lamenting a lack of wine! Very good and I think better than the 2000 I’ve previously tasted.