Degustation

2018 – it’s not your father’s burgundy…

By billn on December 02, 2019 #degustation#reports

Dominique Gallois
My white report will be out in not much more than a week, covering over 40 domaines’ wines and the white vintage assessed in detail.

But here’s a weekend red – my first bottled 2018 red burgundy at home – and it’s more than a good one for the vintage – though I’ve only visited 44 (mainly) red domaines so far. Dominique Gallois has made super, punchy, balanced wines with fine energy in 2018 – they are well above the average – but here you can see, firsthand, the (my) stylistic conundrum of the vintage:

2018 Dominique Gallois, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Very deep colour. Directly from the fridge (as all my wines), I can’t really describe this as pinot from Burgundy, it smells more like a good gamay cru – but at least there’s no bubble-gum here. Likewise in the mouth, this starts in direct, concentrated, even assertive style. It’s fresh, you might even convince me that it’s pinot – but, initially, not from Burgundy. As the wine warms in the glass the texture becomes more overtly velvet, the structure and flavours relax over the palate – even the nose smells a little more like pinot. It’s absolutely delicious wine of sufficient freshness, purity of (dark) fruit, no hard edges and a concentration that you don’t often find in a villages wine. It is a great regional wine – if you like the style – I can happily drink it despite its overt sweetness, but stylistically, 10,11,12,13,14 are all much more attractive to me. And blind, I still wouldn’t guess that it was from Burgundy…
Rebuy – Maybe

a couple of weekend wines, week 47 2019

By billn on November 26, 2019 #degustation

Hmm – week 47 – there’s not many weeks left this year!

Two similarly priced wines – similarly good too:

2016 Jean-Marc Pillot, Montagny 1er Les Gouresses
Such a vibrant and perfumed nose of sweet citrus and faint minerality. A punch of freshness, complexity and energy. Yes!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Bourgogne-Devaux, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune La Dalignère
Plenty of red colour here. Plenty of red fruit aroma too. Silky wine, but one with plenty of volume. There’s some minerality in this deeply fruited wine, but it’s balanced excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes

nouveau – non

By billn on November 22, 2019 #degustation

It’s a truism in Burgundy that there are great wines, but often you can’t buy them. I seem to have found that also with Beaujolais Nouveau this year. This bottle was the only option in my (Swiss) supermarket this year – for a princely 5.95 Swiss francs. To be honest, most of the wines I tasted here were superior to this particular bottle – but, again, this was my only choice.

It’s unclear who actually made it – the back label is generic and notes only that the wine was imported from Beaujolais by my supermarket. I disliked it not because it was thin and weedy – rather for completely opposite reasons – it was fat, well-textured, obviously concentrated, but it was also cloyingly sweet – no gamay freshness – so no second glass. The rest should be okay for boeuf bourguignone. We drank some 2016 Jean-Marc Pillot 1er Montagny for our second (and) third glasses – that restored us!

and the winners are…

By billn on November 21, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

I previously mentioned the first-round tasting for Burgundy’s young winemaking talents 2019, well for the weekend of the Vend du Vin, the final blind taste-off was done and the winners chosen.

And the results?

On Friday 15 November evening, at the Palais des Congrès in Beaune, the GJPV organization awarded their seven regional trophies to the following young winemakers:

  • Damien MARTIN – Domaine de LA DENANTE – Mâconnais
  • Arnaud et Xavier DESFONTAINE – Château de CHAMILLY – Côte Chalonnaise
  • Laurent GAY – Domaine Michel GAY & Fils – Côte de Beaune
  • Prune AMIOT – Domaine AMIOT-SERVELLE – Côte de Nuits
  • Charly NICOLLE – Domaine CHARLY NICOLLE – Chablis
  • Bastien MATHIAS – Domaine Alain MATHIAS – Grand Auxerrois
  • Cyril CHIROUZE – Château des JACQUES – Beaujolais

the tastevinage majors of 2019…

By billn on November 19, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

For the second vintage, the tasting panels of the Tastevinage have chosen their ‘majors’ for the year – their best wines tasted. This year they have reduced their list from the 20 that were chosen last year, to just 12 for this. There are some unexpected names in the list too!

For this ‘award,’ the twelve were chosen from the 1,215 wines that were submitted to blind taste in 2019:

2019 Tastevinage Majors

a bottle or two…

By billn on November 08, 2019 #degustation

Just to show that I haven’t been ignoring my responsibilities these last couple of weeks – here’s the majority of bottles pulled from my own cellar in that time. I hold almost no notes in my head, but the basic impressions remain:

The Armand Volnay was 2017, actually a sinuous and delicious drink already.
Vocoret 2015 Chablis VV – more muscular again but über-mineral and it sang of Chablis.
Longère 2017 Beaujolais Blanc – Nos 2 Elles – rich and ripe yet each glass seemed better and better – a rare delicious BJB!
2007 Lafon, Monthelie 1er Les Duresses. This has really opened since I last looked – blossomed, even. Complex, very Volnay aromatically, just a little structure on the palate but no sharp edges, no rigour – drinking very well!
2015 Nicolas Rouget, Chorey-lès-Beaune – This had a lovely freshness, it drank superbly well for the appellation. Nicolas the (one of the) son(s) of Emmanuel of Flagey. If I understand correctly, this may have been a bit of an experiment, hence, not bottled under Emmanuel’s name, but now I think Emmanuel uses his own label.
2017 David Duband, Côte de Nuits Villages. Fabulous – simply great CVDN Villages. Plenty of colour, life, richness and freshness combined – bravo wine!
Chateau Rougeon Aligoté Arénites 2018. Easy fresh, tasty wine.
2015 Françoise André, Chorey-lès-Beaune Tue-Boeuf – another 2015 Chorey, more the standard fuller profile of the wines from here but completely delicious right now!
2012 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Lurets – wow – such clarity, such elegant aroma – great wine!
2007 David Clark, Morey Les Porroux – what a young wine! Concentrated, still tannic, a baby, but a good one with plenty of material. Still young!
2002 Chézeaux, Griotte-Chambertin – well, I was shocked that this was so fabulous – why – it was the Leclerc version and my experience of their older bottles is moderate at best, but this was fabulous – old oak, mushroom but clean and great!
2007 Alex Gambal, Chambolle 1er Charmes. Another hit, round, ripe, but complex and engaging – another hit for sure!
2016 Vézelay – the St.Vincent cuvée produced by Croix Montjoie – my last bottle, the one before was corked. Bright, energetic, citrus, engaging. Simply delicious.
2008 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambertin. All my older Chambertins have had a problem of one sort or another – all down to the corks – but this has the plastic ‘cork’ – it was fresh, really fabulously complex on the nose and in the mouth – elegant rather than powerful – but what a beauty to drink. It captured our hearts!

Burgundy Report

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