Bouyed by my recent visit to the domaine I bought a few 2005’s for ‘testing’. Unfortunately the onset of a head-cold left me only with an impression of nice texture and balance but little in the way of a flavour profile. Seems a decent buy, but I shall have to come back to this one in the future…
Rebuy – Yes 
From Saint-Amour to Viagra
Why should sauvignon blanc be stuck with boring old gooseberry and cabernet sauvignon with cassis? Genomics could beget some novel wine flavours and combinations to ensure the wine really does go with the food: pinot noir with cranberries, pork, and sage and onion stuffing, perhaps.
2005 Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Fremiets
Medium colour. A deep, soft, faintly chocoloate covered fruit greets your nose – wide and quite impressive. Fresh, lithe and showing a very nice and subtle extra dimension in the mid-palate that flows into the finish. Background tannins are well covered and finely grained. This is very, very nice.
Rebuy – Yes
That’s enough Voillot for now!
Saturday night was enjoyed with neighbours – I mainly poured ‘house favourites’ and whites too as dinner was a little spicy. First was a rosé bubbly from Alsace – a little too sweet and confected. Next was a the first bottle from a 6-pack of 2005 Puligny 1er Les Champs-Gain from Mischief and Mayhem; significantly rounder and softer than I remembered, full of brioche but I have to say a perfectly integrated, if rich whole – was impressive despite me remembering a more mineral wine(?) We followed this with M&M’s 2005 Puligny 1er Caillerets – more mineral, fantasticly intense on the mid-palate and into the finish – still singing. Last one was the 2005 Chablis Bougros from Bouchard Père et Fils – despite remaining a house favourite, this was pretty much beaten up by the previous wines…
I couldn’t drink any more – not due to too many bottles, rather I’d eaten too much. I slept very well 😉
2005 Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Vieilles Vignes
Medium colour – a little darker than Voillot’s Brouillards. The nose has some inelegant powdery fruit and hints of sulfur, faint black shades and occasional glimpses of lovely pure fruit. It needs a lot of time – in fact overnight – and the nose cleans up considerably, turning quite black. In the mouth it’s fresh and slowly mouth-watering with just a little more tannic texture than the previous premier crus. The flavour profile is almost good but on day one reflects the less interesting parts of the nose – but improves, though comes across a little diluted in the mid-palate. It may put on weight with time, but I won’t be along for the ride.
Rebuy – No
2005 Tollot-Beaut, Chorey-lès-Beaune
Quite deeply coloured. The nose is deep, broad and significantly oaked – but it’s rather impressive and fun too relative to the price and appellation. Directly after the Voillot Rugiens there is similar density but nothing close to the clarity, focus or intensity – but then we’re at 40% of the sticker price. Fun and tasty, also very good value – just don’t line it up with anything too flashy.
Rebuy – Yes
I think it’s a measure of the 2005 vintage and the early slumbering of many cuvées from this vintage that, of the three bottles of Joseph Voillot 05’s that I’ve opened, my enjoyment has been inversely proportional to the Burghound scores. Below is a 92-95 monster – NOT – it’s understated, very well made and ‘okay’ but no fireworks. I’ve bought more Brouillards though, and will try the ‘basic’ Volnay 1er Vieilles Vignes and a 1er Fremiets at the weekend.
2005 Joseph Voillot, Pommard 1er Rugiens
Medium colour. Width but little depth on the nose – just a twist of oak early on, followed by nice soft red fruit and a slowly intensifying redcurrant. On the tongue it’s soft, no Pommard rusticity, tight, reasonably concentrated though not obviously intense. Understated length, lingering with mouth-watering acidity.
Rebuy – Yes
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