I cannot lie, Terry Thiese was a new name to me when I came across his work this week. An ardent terroiriste he writes with wit verve and for me the occasional bolt of blinding clarity. Do yourself a favour and check out some of his work.
Just in case you didn’t know, there’s a big problem with en-primeur tastings;
Back in January 2002 the 2000 Grand Cru of Clos des Lambrays really stood out for me at a tasting organised by the UK merchant Howard Ripley.
The problem is that the wines are sometimes not representitive of what eventually gets bottled. I drank a bottle of the retail ‘version’ this week and despite lovely fruit, the palate is like chewing wood – very disappointed – this will probably be affecting the wine in 10 years time – Given that there’s a 6-pack in storage, I hope this is just an isolated batch…
Can one vineyard consistently produce wine of a different quality or expression despite being separated by no more than a small dirt road?
It is the basis of the French A.O.C system and the clarion call of the ‘terroiristes’.
There are those who find this (very) frankly an unsatisfactory and even worse a completely unscientific explanation of the phenomenon – if indeed there is such a phenomenon.
Although starting on the (almost) completely different subject of reviewing Andrew Jefford’s super new book ‘The New France’ here in this thread a wonderfull display of entrenched positions emerge.
Nicolas Potel’s first website had a touch of the ‘off the shelf’ about it, but this new one looks a lot smarter. Hopefully we will see plenty of updates!
Can there ever be such a thing as a free lunch? Well Tom Stevenson’s superb and completely free 2003 Champagne & Sparkling Wine Guide at 228 pages seems hard to argue with.
Fight the flies and dine in a restaurant with a cellar to die for. It must be the Bison roaming the fields that attract the flies, but I know what attracted me to Farnsburg. Next time I’ll go in winter!
Neal Martin don’t you hate him? Young enough to get away with liking trendy bands (that you’ve never heard of), gorgeous Japanese girlfriend, spends all his time drinking 1785 claret, writes with a rare witty style – and on top of all that – his new website is already (probably) the best repository of (up-to-date) info on the Bordeaux Châteaux – bugger!
On Wednesday this week I had the really tough job of visiting Joseph De Bucy – a nice man who makes very tasty Meursaults, and Nicolas Potel for a marathon tasting of 2002’s. In between I had to shoe-horn a 3 hour lunch and afterwards a pizza and lots of water to ensure full concentration for the 2 hour drive home. And the wines? – well you’ll have to look at issue two of the www.burgundy-report.com won’t you – only 2 weeks to go – but suffice to say I’m already making enquiries about some of Mr Potel’s wines 🙂
A mixture of a dead laptop and finding the time means I’ve been very lazy of recent – at least in terms of adding material to the site – Burgundy Report is ticking along nicely for next months issue though. Anyway a nice dinner on Friday evening and no TN’s but here’s a brief overview :
1989 Olivier Leflaive, Corton-Charlemagne – perfect condition, waxy and nutty, very long – super enjoyable
1998 Olivier Leflaive, St.Aubin 1er Charmois – same golden colour as the Corton – stylistically similar but in a less forcefull way – very nice wine
2000 Pirramimma, White Label Shiraz – opaque, big juicy shiraz – as it should be 🙂
1993 Chateau Langoa-Barton – Medium-plus colour, blackcurrant and cedar nose, medium intensity palate with just a little grain to the tannins – nice easy drinking wine – a luncheon claret?