I thought I’d give the ‘bourgogne theme’ one more day…
1998 Gros Frère et Soeur, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose starts a complete jumble of dark wood, similarly dark fruit and some spice – fortunately it knits together rather well in only about 20 minutes; creamy spiced deep red plums and macerating cherry – not quite how I expect a bourgogne to smell, but it’s very, very nice, and frankly it gets better and better. Fresh and still quite astringent in its ‘attack’, yet the dark fruit mirrors the nose with some creamy packaging. Quite intense and, all-in-all, quite impressive in a burly Nuits sort of way. I was ready to dismiss it early-on, but clearly that would have been at my own loss! Definitely needs another 3 or-so years to mellow the astringent tannin – though it’s far from in the ascendant when taken with food – but it’s velvet tannin so ought to be worth waiting for.
Rebuy – Yes
There is one response to “gros frère et soeur 98 bourgogne hautes côtes de nuits”
I’m surprised these past two bourgognes are so vital at this age.
I once heard enthusiast Tom Blach suggest that whether grand cru or bourgogne, both are pinot noir, so when well made, why should one mature faster than another? The question is only about whether the end result is worth the effort to mature a regional wine rather than enjoy the fuller, plumper fresh fruit of youth.
That said, most 98s were no party due to their highly astringent tannins – I wouldn’t be at all surprised if this was borderline undrinkable 8 or 9 years ago!