A correspondent told me this was in an awkward phase – ‘no surprise it’s a 2005’ I thought – seems not so bad though…

2005 des Croix, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Popped and poured. Still a relatively deep, purple-highlighted colour. The very faint background reduction mixes with a little oak and higher-toned alcoholic notes – that could be a little CO₂ – let’s see. Slowly that slightly volatile element calms with, first, high-toned redcurrant then raspberry as the aromatic profile becomes more settled. Fine, soft tannin, slightly plush with a very silky texture. Really good pinot flavour and again an oaky impression plus a little creamy depth in the mid-palate. Really fills the mouth but with dimension rather and acid-driven expansion. Super. Wait a couple of hours and the oak/reduction is on a lower level and the nose is both deeper and darker. And the flavour, well it rather recedes – it’s still there and still interesting but you have to chew harder on the tannin to find it – still without the dimension of its early phase. Just very good young wine with a quality level bearing no resemblance to its label.
Rebuy – Yes

Day 2?: The nose is now about blackberry/blackcurrant. The palate is a little unusual as it starts wide but narrows very quickly – the cream undertow is back and the fruit is darker than the first day, but it is almost cordial-like – far too easy to drink!

Here’s a nice comparison!

2008 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc
There is a slightly more obvious whiff of oak toast on the nose than I remember than from the previous 12 bottles(!) though it remains an accent rather than a dominant tone; round and inviting the aromas remain. In the mouth also quite round with a late arriving, mouth-watering lick of acidity then the subtle extra dimension of fruit that has made this wine a standout chez nous. Still in a lovely place.
Rebuy – of-course

2008 Buisson-Charles, Meursault 1er Les Cras
The nose has less depth, but significantly more width and complexity; initially perhaps a higher-toned hint of mint amongst warm, green leaves and a tight core of fruit. Wow, a narrower entry than the Bourgogne, but waxy smooth before opening – w i d e – and growing and growing in the very impressive mid-palate with a super-tasty, slightly creamy agrumes flavour. The finish is about pure mineral and it’s very long. It’s a beauty.
Rebuy – Yes

Of-course the Buisson-Charles is at least three times the price of the Gambal, but here’s why; the Gambal lubricates your evening conversation with round yet crisp, pretty and clean flavours, the Buisson-Charles becomes your conversation!

Wow – almost instant disappointment when I expected this to be easily the best of the two wines! There was some rearguard-action which might eventually save the day, but faced with a choice I’d definitely plump for the 2007 today! But back to the wine – at JC Boisset this somehow transitioned from Mommessin to their marque ‘Jaffelin’ between the 07 and 08 vintages – the name is slightly updated to ‘Sur les Grèves’ too.

Updated
2008 Jaffelin, Beaune 1er Sur Les Grèves – Clos St.Anne
Medium-colour. Instantly the nose is overwhelmed by toasty oak – you have no other pointers – I left the wine in the glass for 20 minutes before returning. On my return the oak is a bit more manageable, finally there are some high tones that might one day aspire to something more perfumed and at least a suggestion of fruit below – even a kind of iodine note found on older whites. Likewise the first taste was sweet oak-water – perhaps pinot but nothing to indicate Burgundy. The texture is very smooth – certainly executive tannins – good balance, indeed the sweet oak gives the impression that the acidity is rather low – in a 2008!
I eventually warmed a little to the nose and even a little more to the flavours where there is both depth and a certain density, but on day 1, frankly I find – n o t h i n g – to indicate Burgundy! Shame, but hold your breath; I’ll leave it for day 2, meanwhile I’ll take a glass of Bourgogne Blanc…
Day two and the oak-toast on the nose is reduced to a little ash against high-toned, almost floral notes. Fills the mouth, still with plenty of volume and sweetness but there seems a heartbeat of energy from the acidity this time. Quite drinkable and I would say quite tasty on day two. Beaune? – I can’t say – I’d anyway buy the 07 in preference.
Rebuy – No

Let’s be honest, it’s a Mommession, made Lord knows where, from a vineyard reputedly more suitable for white wines (it’s actually ‘Sur Les Greves’ not Les Greves (I’ve seen other bottles noted as Teurons!). It really can’t be that good good can it(?)

2007 Mommessin, Beaune 1er Les Greves – Clos St.Anne
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is just a little bit better than pretty, there’s a high-toned fruit-pastille impression, but also a nice cherry core too – the last drops smell lovely – bravo! Ripe fruit that becomes fresher and more intense as you hold onto it. Decent acidity and the merest reference to tannin in the mid-palate. Good depth with most subtle touch of cream. The tiniest bit of fat pads out the texture. It’s not the most concentrated Beaune you will ever drink, but it is complex and a very well made 2007 indeed. I have to bite my lip and say – bravo (again!) – particularly as the price I paid was less than €20.
Rebuy – Yes

For the 2008 vintage the wine moved to Jaffelin (also Boisset) – that wine has more competition than I expected!

I’ve bought this every vintage since Alex’s inaugural 2001 – except the 2003 of-course…
I just took delivery of the 08s but thought it prudent to check on some older bottles. It’s a shame that decisions on what to open are today as much driven by the question of p.ox as what appeals, but to-date I’ve had no issues with this cuvée, or come to think of it with this producer. I think I have a lonesome 01 somewhere and certainly some 02 mags, but I will resist temptation for a while longer – let the mags at least reach their 10th birthday!

2004 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents du Chien
Medium golden colour. The nose is a blend of slightly musky, creamy Puligny style invitation and a much riper core of yellow fruit. In the mouth this has a good width that’s coupled to very good acidity – it seems with riper fruit flavours than in its youth. Grows a little in the mid-palate then slowly decays. It’s a lovely wine, but one I slightly preferred in its youth and would certainly prefer in another 5 or 6 years – ah c’est la vie! At least I can settle down and enjoy it for what it is.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Pierre Morey, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This wine has already lost the inviting youthful fruit aromas of its first two years; it’s now narrower but perhaps deeper too with a hint of leather with some macerating dark cherry. Nice and round in the mouth and still with a hint of fat to the texture. Initially there’s just a little bitter/sour in the finish but it’s a little character before either I or it reach equilibrium and it’s gone! What’s left is a nice wine of quite enough depth for the label, still some interesting fruit and last drops that leave a lovely aroma in the glass. This is the last from half a dozen – all drank well – I would say drink-up, I have.
Rebuy – Yes